Insider’s Travel Guide to Paradise – Salento, Cocora Valley, Colombia

Salento is not a secret. Lots of travelers to Colombia visit the mountain town above the gorgeous Cocora Valley every year. Locals love it too. After spending weeks in Salento over four separate trips, we’ve got your insider’s travel guide to paradise including a great new hotel, the smartest days to visit and where and how to see the best of the area’s famous wax palms (it’s not where you think).

Salento Colombia

Traditional architecture and a laid back vibe bring many travelers–foreign and Colombian–to the mountain town of Salento.

Salento, a Colombian paradise

Salento was founded in 1850 and proudly wears its badge as one of the oldest towns in Quindio province. The more charming parts of town take you back in time with cobble stone streets, meticulous traditional paint jobs on original adobe buildings with terracotta roof tiles and fire-engine-red geraniums everywhere. In 2011 UNESCO named a large swath of Quindio province, including Salento, as a “Coffee Cultural Landscape”.

Salento Colombia plaza

The main plaza and church in Salento, Colombia.

Salento is like a smaller, more tranquil version of the town of Jardin except on weekends when Salento bursts at the seams as Colombian visitors descend on town creating traffic jams in the main plaza, filling hotels (some charge higher rates on weekends) and jamming the pedestrian street lined with shops selling everything from coffee to hats. On weekdays the town slips back into a sleepy pace, so our first Salento travel tip is: avoid weekends if you want a more peaceful experience.

Salento colors

The road into the Cocora Valley from the town of Salento, and it just gets more and more gorgeous from here.

Finding the (best ) wax palms in Salento

There are plenty of things to do in Salento including hiking, biking, horseback riding, shopping, coffee touring and tasting, playing an explosive (literally) Colombian bar game called tejo and there’s even a zip line now. But the real reason you’re there is to see the famous wax palms of Salento, right?

Wax palms Cocora valley Salento

Wax palms in the Cocora Valley below Salento.

Wax palms are a distinct species found only in the Andes in parts of Colombia and Peru. They are the tallest palm in the world and most grow to about 150 feet (45 meters) but some shoot up to 200 feet (60 meters). They’re also the national tree of Colombia.

Cocora Valley

The Cocora Valley unfurls below Salento.

Salento sits on a ridge above the Cocora Valley which is home to some of the few remaining stands of wax palms. Most visitors take a shared jeep taxi from town down into the picture perfect valley a few miles away: green pastures, rolling hills, an ambling narrow road, babbling brooks, historic haciendas – it’s got it all. See what we’re talking about in our drone travel footage of the Cocora Valley, below.

At the head of the Cocora Valley there’s a five hour loop trail which winds through small stands of the palms. It’s picturesque and the palms are stunningly tall, like the giraffes of the palm world, but these most famous wax palms are not the best examples on offer.

Wax Palms cocora Salento Colombia

Wax palms in the Cocora Valley.

It wasn’t until our second or third visit to Salento that we learned that the Cocora Valley wax palms are nothing compared to the palms that exist in a neighboring valley on and around a finca called La Carbonera. How do we know this? Because we’ve been adopted by a magical Colombian auntie (Hi B! We miss you!) and her family owns La Carbonera.

Willys Yipao Salento Colombia

Classic Willys Jeeps are used as taxis in Salento.

 

She took us to La Carbonera, which is located about about 1.5 hours from Salento on a road that includes parts of the Camino Real which Latin revolutionary hero Simón Bolívar traveled along between Ecuador and Nicaragua. So here’s our next Salento travel tip: hire a jeep taxi and driver in the main square to take you to La Carbonera. Be ready for a bumpy, dusty ride, but it’s worth it (150,000 COP or about US$50 round trip for the whole jeep which will seat 5 people in addition to the driver).

Wax palms Carbonera, Colombia

Travel tip: the wax palms on the road to a finca called La Carbonera are much denser and more impressive than those in the Cocora Valley and we can tell you how to get there.

Right from the road to La Carbonera you will see thousands of wax palms clumped in large, swaying stands which blow the palms in the Cocora Valley out of the water.

 What to eat and drink in Salento

Small trout farms are abundant in the area and many restaurants sell trout in various forms. Another Salento travel tip: you will see trucha al ajillo (trout with garlic) on menus everywhere. Be aware that this dish is not simply trout cooked in garlic. Your fish will come smothered in a milky, mildly garlicy sauce. Just so you know.

Trucha y patacon Salento Colombia

Fried trout on a platter-sized patacon is a common (and delicious) dish in Salento.

Dairy products are also huge in Salento thanks to sprawling cattle farms. Get some local cheese, then head to the small supermarket on the main square, walk to the back near the produce section and look for baskets of small baguettes made daily by a local woman. Yep, that’s another tip.

Milk bar Salento Colombia willys

Many diary products are produced in and around Salento and some are sold at this creative road side stand on the way into town.

Whatever you do, don’t leave town until you’ve tried a patacon. Usually, patacones are thick discs of boiled, pressed, then fried plantain which come as a common side dish. In Salento, a patacon is a very thin, crispy version the size of a dinner plate which is topped with cheese, chicken, trout, etc. and garnished with rich hogao which is a common Colombian sauce of chopped and simmered vegetables. You won’t find this delicious dish in many other parts of Colombia and we still crave it from time to time.

Salento patacon

Don’t leave Salento without trying a thin, crispy patacon topped with meat, cheese and hogao.

Salento is in the so-called “coffee triangle” so there are lots of area coffee producers (some offering tours of their farms and facilities) and many cafes in town. We liked Cafe Bernabe Gourmet because the coffee was good and so was the art on the walls. Another solid place to caffeine up is Cafe Jesus Martin.  We liked their coffee so much that we bought a few bags of beans to keep with us in the truck for future use in our beloved Bonjour insulated French Press.

Jesus Martin coffee Salento

Excellent coffee at the Jesus Martin cafe in Salento.

 

On weekends, open air bars open around the square under tents and they’re a great place to grab a beer and watch Colombian families.

kiddy rides Salento Colombia

On the weekends enterprising locals push Colombian kids around the main plaza while their parents relax in the casual restaurants and bars around the square.

Where to sleep in Salento

There are more than 70 hostels and hotels in little tiny Salento, so choice is not the problem. During our very first visit we stayed at the stylish and peaceful Hostel Tralala, just off the main square, which has a dorm, two lovely shared kitchens which include free coffee, there’s a casita off the garden and a handful of and private rooms (70,000 COP or about US$24 for a private double with bathroom/60,000 COP or about US$20 with shared bathroom).

Salento, COlombia

Classic Salento.

We also spent a few days in a one room apartment outside of town which is rented by Maria Clara who also bakes those baguettes we recommended above. It’s sunny, clean and comfortable with a large porch with a hammock. It’s a great option for families or those staying longer term, but her current rates are a bit steep for us at 120,000 COP or about US$40 per night, contact Maria Clara at claragarciamar AT hotmail DOT com or call 3133717249, she speaks English).

We also stayed at La Floresta Hostel which has a parking lot and basic but fairly clean rooms and a pretty filthy shared kitchen (55,000 COP or about US$17 per night for a private double with bathroom, there’s also a camping area and dorms).

Hacienda Cairo Cocora Valley Salento Colombia

Reserva El Cairo Hotel is a lovely new addition just a few miles from town in the Cocora Valley.

During our most recent visit to Salento we were delighted to tour the new seven room Reserva El Cairo Hotel. Located two miles (3 km) outside of town in the Cocora Valley (taxis are common and cheap), this hotel is peaceful and combines sustainability with traditional architecture. The restored building, formerly a private house, is more than 100 years old and rooms now have modern bathrooms and good beds plus a basket full of locally-made snacks. Staff members speak English and they’re passionate about service. They grow their own organic fruits and vegetables and produce their own milk, butter, eggs and chickens on their 100 acres (40 hectares) of land.

Other good accommodation options in Salento include Hostal Ciudad de Segorbe, The Plantation House and La Posada de Cafe which is located right on the pedestrian street off the main square.

New threats to Salento

Despite the importance of Salento and the Cocora Valley as a tourist destination, the area’s UNESCO site status, and it’s standing as home to the country’s rare national tree, there’s a new plan afoot that would allow open pit mining for gold in the region. There is local backlash, so stay tuned.

 

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The Prettiest Town in Colombia – Barichara, Colombia

This is not hyperbole. Barichara is the prettiest town in Colombia.

And we can prove it.

Yes, that’s a nun walking down a stone street flanked by perfectly restored Colonial buildings. Baricahara is like that.

Welcome to Barichara, the prettiest town in Colombia

The Colombian government keeps an exclusive list of towns that retain their Colonial architecture and traditional way of life. They’re called Pueblos Patrimonios (Patrimonial Towns) and, as we write this, there are only 17 of them in the entire country. Sixteen of them are great. Barichara is amazing.

Barichara Colombia

Another impossibly atmospheric street in Barichara.

For one thing, Barichara is dead gorgeous. While many towns in Colombia, and certainly every Pueblo Patrimonio town, have sections where Colonial architecture remains along with charming sense of history, in Barichara every single adobe building, every terracotta roof tile, every stone street, every window box has been restored and maintained.

Barichara Colombia colonial house

History never looked better than it does in Barichara.

To be honest, the perfection is so pervasive in Barichara that it can feel a bit fake. We half expected actors in period costumes to leap out of windows to a Disney-esque soundtrack. That never actually happened. Thank God.

Barichara churches

Stone churches abound in Barichara.

For a small town, Barichara has more than its share of stone churches as well and they come in many shapes and sizes including the Church of the Immaculate Conception (built in 1883 and featuring a gold-leafed altar), the petite Chapel of San Antonio and the Santa Barbara Chapel.

Barichara Colombia Pueblo Patrimonial

The streets of Barichara are so camera-ready that many movies and tv shows have been filmed here.

Barichara is also just the right size–small enough to be peaceful, but large enough to offer a range of hotels, restaurants, locals’ hangouts, shops, etc. This attracts a lot of Colombians as well as foreign travelers and Barichara can be hectic on the weekends when Colombian families and stylish city dwellers come to town.

Barichara Colombia

Even a simple doorway takes on something romantic and irresistible in Barichara.

Visit Barichara during the week, however, and you may feel like you’ve wandered onto an abandoned movie set with shuttered shops and deserted streets. That has its own sort of appeal.

Hiking the Camino Real and eating ants in Barichara

Gawking at architecture and soaking up the ambiance are great ways to spend time in Barichara, but there are two other unique things to do while you’re in town. The first involves walking in the footsteps of the conquistadors.

Barichara Guane Camino Real Trail

Karen walking down the Camino Real from Barichara to Guane.

The Camino Real was a network of roads built by or taken over by the Spanish as they conquistadored their way through the Americas. Many section of the original wide, stone Camino Real still exist, including a 5.5 mile (9 km) stretch from Barichara down to the town of Guane.

It is a beautiful and peaceful walk (allow about two hours) as the Camino Real, which was built by the local Guane Indians before the Spanish began using it, meanders gently downhill past fields and small farmhouses to the tiny, tranquil town of Guane. Keep your eyes open for birds and for ammonites along the way.

In Guane you’ll find a quiet plaza, a church, some signs claiming goat’s milk is better than Viagra, an archaeological museum and plenty of places to get a celebratory beer. If you don’t want to hoof it back up to Barichara you can hop on a local bus.

hormigas culonas fat-bottom ants Barichara

This sculpture of a fat bottom ant, a local delicacy, greets visitors to Barichara.

The second very Barichara thing to do involves eating ants. On purpose. And not just any ants. Oh, no. These are hormigas culonas or fat-bottom ants. They show up around April every year and people collect and roast them with gusto. Some say they’re an aphrodisiac which may or may not explain the giant ant sculptures at one end of town.

You can sample ants in many forms in Barichara including packets of roasted ants and dishes made with ants. We ate a dish of goat in a fat bottom ant sauce at Restaurante Las Cruces which is part of the Fundacion Escuela Taller Barichara which works to teach and retain traditional artisenal skills, including cooking. Honestly, the ant sauce tasted like dirt. Read more in our story about eating gourmet ants for TheLatinKitchen.com.

Fat-battom ants Barrichara

In Barichara ants are everywhere, including in some of the food.

Where to sleep and eat in Barichara (no ants this time, we promise)

As previously mentioned, there’s a wide range of hotel options in Barichara. We chose La Nube Posada boutique hotel in search of a modern take on the Colonial style in Barichara and we were not disappointed.

 La Nube Posada Barichara Colombia

There are just five rooms at Posada La Nube which brings a welcome element of clean, crisp style to Barichara.

Opened in 2009, this hotel has just five small but stylish rooms arranged around an open central courtyard. The place is full of modern art and the decor is crisp and clean inside the Colonial structure. There’s also a lush back garden where meals are served. Breakfast featured French Press coffee, homemade granola and some lovely traditional plates featuring tamales or scrambled eggs with shredded beef and arepas. The owners also run the nearby Suite Assul in a completely renovated house with a pool and multiple bedrooms. It can be rented in its entirety or room by room.

Run by chef Maximo from Rome, Ristorante Italiano Al Cuoco is the place to go for homemade pasta and amazing sauces, all blissfully ant free. It can be tricky to find, so ask a local.

Pueblo Patrionial Barichara Colombia

One last shot from beautiful Barichara.

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Border Quirks – Pamplona, Colombia

Not many people visit Pamplona, Colombia unless they’re crossing the nearby border into Venezuela. However, unexpected quirks like a standout museum, blatant copyright infringement, cheap fuel, strangely sexy cakes and authentic Italian pizza make this remote town worth a stop.

Pamplona Colombia Valle del Espiritu Santo

Quirky Pamplona, Colombia is nestled in a valley at more than 7,000 feet.

Quirky Pamplona, Colombia

The narrow, winding road to Pamplona is peppered with signs that warn of “alta reisgo de accidentes” as it climbs to 11,200 feet (3,400 meters). After traveling through a lovely, high, boulder-strewn plateau we dropped to a more reasonable 7,500 feet (2,200 meters) and arrived in Pamplona.

Pamplona Colombia

“Progress” and earthquakes have eliminated much of the Colonial architecture that once filled Pamplona, Colombia but a few examples survive.

Founded in 1549, Pamplona has some Colonial architecture that’s survived “progress” and earthquakes and, for a town this size, there are some good museums as well. The Museo Casa Colonial (free), for example, has two rooms displaying indigenous, Colonial and religious art.

Museo Arte Moderna Ramirez Villamizar Pamplona Colombia

Pamplona’s Museo Arte Moderna Ramirez Villamizar features sophisticated modern art by a locally-born artist in a gorgeous restored building.

The surprisingly sophisticated Museo Arte Moderna Ramirez Villamizar (1,000 COP/about US$0.40) is a lovely building that’s full of abstract sculptures and paintings by Colombian artist Eduardo Ramriez Villamizar who was born in Pamplona in 1922. He studied art in Bogota where he began his slow and steady ascent to upper echelons of the global modern art world. There are a number of other religious art museums in town but we skipped them. We were hungry.

The weird world of eating in Pamplona

The first thing we noticed about food in Pamplona was the number of shameless fakes around town. Dulces de Rey, for example, has the creepy Burger King king right on its sign. Then there’s Roy Royers chicken.

burger king roy rodgers trademark infringement colombia

Blatant copyright infringement in Pamplona, Colombia.

And who could ignore the soft-porn desserts all over town? Either there are a LOT of bachelor parties going on in Pamplona, or birthday and graduation celebrations get pretty wild around here.

colombia tits and ass cake

Yes, those are edible.

Another unexpected find? Real pizza made by a real Italian. The owner of Piero’s Pizza arrived in Pamplona from Italy more than 30 years ago and his restaurant is still a popular place. About US$15 will get you a very, very large properly made pizza pie. We ate there twice.

Sleeping in Pamplona

We stayed at the Cariongo Plaza Hotel which was the biggest hotel in town and combined business traveler services with a family vacation vibe, though we still can’t figure out why we had to call the front desk any time we wanted hot water. Another quirk! Those on a budget should check out Hotel el Alamo where less than US$15 gets you a private double room with Wi-Fi and a parking lot (which is always important to us). The 1549 Hostal has a stylish Colonial look, but some rooms (around US$25 for a private double) are small and dark. Look before you book.

Road trip tip

Pamplona is just 50 miles (80 km) from the border with Venezuela where, despite the current downward spiral in that increasingly failed nation, fuel is still dirt cheap. When we were in Pamplona some gas stations were selling cheaper fuel that was brought in from Venezuela. We got diesel for about US$1.50 less per gallon than in other places in Colombia, but with a COP 20,000 limit per vehicle.

Venezuelan license plates

Do not be surprised if you see Venezuelan license plates in Pamplona, Colombia. The border is just 50 miles away. We were more surprised to see this Dodge in such good shape.

 

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Dangerous Beauty – Los Nevados National Park & Ruiz Volcano, Colombia

Los Nevados National Park in central Colombia is a dangerous beauty full of high altitude landscapes carved by glaciers and volcanoes, including the Ruiz Volcano which has proven deadly in the past and is currently making its mighty presence felt again.

El Cisne PNN Los Nevados Colombia

Dangerously beautiful Los Nevados National Park in Colombia.

The dangerous beauty of Los Nevados National Park

Los Nevados National Park (Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados in Spanish) was created in 1974. The park gets its name from a Spanish word commonly used for snowcapped mountains or volcanoes (nevado means snowcapped). There are a number of volcanoes within the 144,000 acre (58,300 hectare) park but the Nevado del Ruiz (Ruiz Volcano) is the biggest and baddest of them all.

In 1985 the 17,547 foot (5,389 meter) volcano erupted in the night and the glaciers and snowcap on its peak melted with devastating results. More than 25,000 people, mostly in the town of Armero, were killed as a river of mud and debris flowed down from the flanks of the Ruiz Volcano. It was the second deadliest volcanic eruption in history.

Nevado Ruiz vocano from El Cisne Los Nevados National Park

One of three vents on the Ruiz volcano shows off a dusting of snow in Los Nevados National Park.

The beauty of the park comes from those same volcanoes whose peaks we want to glimpse and whose glaciers and eruptions have created the landscape within the park. In 2009 Los Nevados National Park was the third most visited park in Colombia with more than 50,000 visitors (COP 57,000 or about US$18 entry fee including a mandatory guide) coming to see all that beauty. However, the park opens at the whim of its namesake volcanoes. If they are too active then the park is deemed too dangerous to visit and access can be restricted or stopped altogether.

Nevado Ruiz volcano Colombia

Wind, weather and seismic activity sculpt the landscape in weird ways in Los Nevados National Park. Here, rock and ash combine to create a moonscape on earth.

The park was in restricted access mode when we were there and the higher elevations, roads, lakes, trails and the El Cisne Refugio were all closed to visitors because of activity within the Ruiz Volcano. But that did not stop us.

Our all access park pass

Colombian national park officials kindly assigned us a park employee who took us on an overnight trip through the park, but first we had to deliver some condor food. Instead of taking the usual route into the park’s main Las Brisas entrance near the town of Las Esperanza, we drove in from Villa Maria along a rough back road carrying a dead calf in a bucket.

Paramo PNN Los Nevados Colombia

The high altitude páramo landscape in the park acts like a sponge and forms many small ponds and lakes.

Los Nevados park is home to a dozen or so Andean condors which were bred at the San Diego Zoo. The species is considered threatened as populations decrease and while park officials say the Los Nevados condors are thriving, they still support the community with food drops like the dead calf.

Frailejon Espeletia plant paramo Colombia

Frailejon, which remind us of Joshua trees, are a mainstay of the páramo landscape in the park.

About five hours later we finally entered the park. Los Nevados is a high altitude park and a kind of alpine tundra called páramo, which only exists in the northern Andes of South America, thrives here. The ground is covered with rugged tufts of grass, Joshua tree-like flowering frailejón plants and a weird low-growing, dark green dome cushion plants which, upon closer inspection, is made up of thousands of tiny plants. We also saw hundreds of rabbits but, sadly, not the puma or the tigrillo that also live here.

Paramo plants Colombi

Though it is called a cushion plant, this massive green dome is solid as a rock and made up of thousands of tiny, prickly star-shaped plants.

It was getting late so we headed straight for the El Cisne Refugio (named for one of the other volcanoes in the park) which is a huge building capable of housing up to 70 people. When the park is fully open there’s a restaurant as well. Because the park wasn’t officially open the normal dorm building was locked up tight. So we settled into a much smaller and more rustic building behind the larger structure. This is where park rangers and employees stay and it was our home for the night. There was a kitchen, a cold water bathroom and bunk beds plus electricity and, weirdly, a TV but no method of heating.

Centro de Visitantes El Cisne PNN Los Nevados

The El Cisne Refugio offers rooms and a restaurant.

Our park escort Hector explained that Los Nevados offers more than just views. There are hiking trails in the park as well including a three hour round trip hike to a glacial lake called Lake Otún at 12,800 feet (3,900 meters). The lake is full of trout and is a breeding ground for many types of ducks. There’s a cabin on the lakeshore as well and camping opportunities.

Los Nevados paramo frailejon

More páramo in the park.

The El Cisne Refugio is located at more than 13,000 feet (4,000 meters) and at this altitude it gets very cold the moment the sun goes down. As evening came we stayed outside as long as we could to watch the light change on the páramo and the hills that surround the small bowl where the buildings are located. Soon we retreated back inside where we bundled up in layers of wool and climbed into our sleeping bags for the night.

Los Nevados Frailejon Espeletia

Frailejon up close.

By 7 am the next morning we were back on the road, headed to a point from which we hoped to catch a clear view of the top of the Ruiz Volcano before clouds descended. We only got brief teases of the top as the clouds came and went, carried by strong winds. We’re told that July and August are the clearest months in the park, but even then cloud-free views of the high peaks are not guaranteed.

Nevado Ruiz panorama

When was the last time you drove to 15,512 feet? Here’s our truck at that altitude on the flanks of the Ruiz Volcano in Los Nevados National Park. Click here to see a larger version of his panoramic shot.

Ruiz Los Nevados altitudeWhat we did get was a milestone on our little road trip. As the surprisingly good dirt road through the park climbed and climbed we reached 15,512 feet (4,728 meters) on a cinder covered pass just below Ruiz Volcano–the highest elevation we’d driven to on the journey at that point. We also saw one of those San Diego condors and a páramo eagle soaring above us. Hector told us that the condors sometimes swoop down the snowy hillsides and brush their chests against the snow to clean their feathers.

PNN Los Nevados Colombia

Clouds descend over a craggy mountainside cut by glaciers and shaped by volcanic eruptions in Los Nevados National Park in Colombia.

Leaving Los Nevados was no less dramatic

The terrain in Los Nevados is constantly shifting due to wind, weather and seismic activity. When we were there a section of road was only marginally passable. The area had recently been crudely cleared so small park vehicles could get through, but there was no guarantee that our monster truck would be able to pass. We decided to take our chances and push forward through the park toward the main Las Brisas entrance anyway rather than backtrack over the terrible dirt road we’d taken into the park the previous day.

bad road Los Nevados National Park

There used to be a road in there somewhere…

This meant driving along a notorious stretch of road called “The Ss” because you have to navigate 17 switchback turns, some of them very, very tight for our long-wheel-base truck.Then we reached the semi-rebuilt wash-out area and managed to power through narrow spaces and deep ash to get through. This is the sort of stuff that Eric finds adventurous and Karen finds arduous.

Driving Los Nevados park Colombia

Our truck after Eric successfully negotiated his way through a sketchy roadless section. You can see the 17 switchbacks of “The Ss” in the background.

Just short of the main Las Brisas entrance we stopped at Chalet Arenales. The original structure burned down in 2010 and a new building (which is not in the chalet style) opened in 2014. It’s surprisingly modern and offers  a warm interior, free hot coffee and large windows which give great views onto the moonlike landscape of the park.

Chalet Arenales Los Nevados

Chalet Arenales in Los Nevados National Park offers free coffee and great views.

Many people only travel as far as the new chalet when they visit Los Nevados but we’re grateful to Colombian national park officials for finding a way for us to visit more of the heart of the park even during a time of restricted access. The unique páramo, extreme landscapes, rare wildlife and fleeting glimpses of the Ruiz Volcano made Los Nevados one of our favorite national parks on the journey so far.

Los Nevados National Park Colombia

This entrance to Los Nevados National Park can be closed whenever seismic activity within the park is deemed too high. Check the status before planning your visit.

The Ruiz Volcano is very, very active

And speaking of the Ruiz Volcano, it’s still very, very active. Most recently, Ruiz erupted again this month. No deaths have been reported so far, but the airport in nearby Manizales was closed. Check park status before planning a visit to Los Nevados.

Travel tip

Smart visitors to Los Nevados National Park combine it with a warm and relaxing visit to one of the many hot springs in the area where you can soak in water that’s naturally heated by the area’s volcanoes. These places range from basic pools to full service hotels. We soaked our bones at Termales El Otoño which has three big, clean pools surrounded by a large hotel with standard rooms and traditionally painted stand-alone cottages.

Termales El Otoño - Manizales, Colombia

One of the soaking pools at Termales El Otoño.

 

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