Beyond Carnaval – Puerto Veracruz, Mexico


Sure, sure. Puerto Veracruz puts on what many consider to be the second largest Carnaval celebration in the world (right behind Rio). And we’d love to see it. We’ve tried twice to attend and failed both times. However, we did finally make it to Puerto Veracruz and even without parades and half naked women and copious drinking in the streets the city showed us a good time.

Right off the bat, the city feels extremely Caribbean–the people are darker and even quicker to smile. The music makes you want to swing your hips, not just stomp your feet. The clothes are a little tighter. Locals, not just travelers, sport dreadlocks.

Then there’s the fact that Puerto Veracruz is a thriving port city, literally surrounded by water and framed on one long and lovely side by a lazy malecon (waterfront walkway).

Changing coastlines have left the Baluarte de Santiago fort securely inland even though it was originally situated on the waterfront.

The city also has some interesting hotels, including the historic Gran Hotel Diligencias which is right on the main square or zocalo. The hotel was originally a station for stagecoaches delivering mail (diligencias in Spanish).

In 1795 a few humble rooms were created and the hotel was born. Today Gran Hotel Diligencias has more than 120 rooms and is a well-kept grand dame–solid and stuffy in a comforting kind of way. And you can’t beat the location or the pool deck.

The 18th century cathedral in the Zocalo of Puerto Veracruz as seen from the pool deck of the Gran Hotel Diligencias.

Restaurants and bars around the zocalo in Puerto Veracruz offer food, drink and roving bands--from mariachi to salsa.

The zocalo itself is quiet and peaceful by day and a hub of eating and drinking and dancing at night. Just be warned that many restaurants on the zocalo don’t include tax in their menu prices like almost every other restaurant in Mexico does, so everything ends up being more expensive than you expect.

Veracruz is very much a night time town and that fact, plus the number of bands of many musical styles playing on the street for anyone who’ll listen and the smattering  of buildings with wrought iron balconies, made us think of our beloved New Orleans.

Restaurants and bars around the zocalo in Puerto Veracruz offer food, drink and roving bands--from mariachi to salsa.

Veracruz is close to the coffee-growing region of Coatepec and there are cavernous, bustling coffee shops all over town. Two of the most enticing are Gran Cafe del Portal (right next to the Hotel Diligencias) and Gran Cafe de la Parroquia. Maybe it was their great Mex Decco logo, but we were drawn to Gran Cafe de la Parroquia (along with what seemed to be all of the old men in the state).

The coffee was great and interactive: when you want milk added you bang your spoon on your cup and a water comes over with a massive tea kettle full of warm milk. Order a doble if you like your coffee strong. The tile work and ornate copper coffee makers are gorgeous and you can buy coffee (ground or whole bean) to take home with you.

The Gran Cafe de la Parroquia serves great coffee and even better people-watching. We love their Mex Deco logo too.

This cheerful graffiti livens up walls all around the city of Puerto Veracruz.

This cheerful graffiti livens up walls all around the city of Puerto Veracruz.

Going to the doctor is one of those chores that can be complicated during a long road trip like ours. In Veracruz, Eric needed to go to the dentist and we were both due for the third and final shot in our Hepatitis B series. Incredibly, we were able to find the right place to handle both issues–and our Hep B shots were even totally free.

The Faro Carranza building is where Mexico's Constitution was drafted in 1917. Today the navy uses the building.

In addition to the bright, smiling street art all over town, Cristina Pineda has placed one of her Xico dogs–which she creates out of a wide range of materials and in a wide range of styles and sizes–along the malecon. She calls Xico the “mascot of Mexico” and there is something endearing about him.

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Meet Xico, one of hundreds of stylized dogs which have become the trademark of artist Cristina Pineda.

There are many sharks at the Acuario de Veracruz and they've got a unique program that lets you get in the water with them.

Veracruz also has a tidy aquarium (the Acuario de Veracruz) which offers the usual: turtles, reef fish, some dolphins plus the chance to get into a tank with a bunch of brown sharks (friendly) and tiger sharks (known to be aggressive).

Sign up for their Tiburonario(300 pesos including the price of general admission) and you get to borrow a wet suit, mask and snorkel then climb into a clear acrylic cage with holes in it along with an aquarium employee. The cage is then lowered into a tank exhibit that’s full of sharks until you’re up to your waist in water–and in sharks. Honestly, being submerged in a closed box in the water without full SCUBA gear on was more disconcerting than being circled by hungry sharks. It was a little weird to be watched by the rest of the aquarium patrons as well.

Check out our video, below, to see what it was like and to watch sharks rip hunks of fish off sharpened acrylic feeding poles as we try valiantly to hold onto them:

During a behind-the-scenes tour of the Acuario de Veracruz we were shown this tank absolutely brimming with little baby jellyfish.

Not surprisingly, the port city of Veracruz has a lot of shipwrecks off its shores and SCUBA divers can  explore many of them. We didn’t get a chance to dive while we were in town, but we did have a great conversation with local diving pioneer Gonzalo Estrada at his  Tridente Diving shop right on the malecon. He’s been diving in the area for more than 50 years and he’s a wealth of information about what’s down there.

We love the neon jalapeno pepper at this roadside taco stand in Puerto Veracruz.

We can't figure out why the owners of this store, which sells uniforms to members of Mexico's navy, would name it after the notoriously brutal Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes.

Back in the early 1500s Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes landed at what is now Puerto Veracruz and proceeded to go about his conquistador business (primarily looking for gold and “saving” souls) in an infamously ruthless way. Therefore, it seemed strange to us that anyone in the region would invoke his name with anything but disdain. However, we came across his name and his image a number of times, including on a store that sells uniforms to  members of Mexico’s navy.

In 1914 the United States landed in Veracruz on the orders of President Woodrow Wilson who felt slighted because the Mexican government, still not fully settled after the recent Mexican Revolution, failed to apologize for the Tampico Affair. One hundred Mexicans were killed and the U.S. occupied the city. Fighting went on for six months, then WWI broke out and other battles took over.

Little known fact most of us weren't taught in history class: the United States actually invaded and occupied Veracruz in 1914. This monument stands in memory of the incident.

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4 comments on “Beyond Carnaval – Puerto Veracruz, Mexico

  1. Great post, I’ve been planning a trip to Veracruz for a long time now. When I go to Mexico I’m thinking of seeing just Veracruz and Morelia for now and come back another time to see more.

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