Way Out Water – Semuc Champey & Lanquín, Guatemala

You’ve got to endure a slow, bumpy, curvy road to get to the serenity of the famous natural pools of Semuc Champey. First we passed through the grotty, congested city of Coban before turning off the pavement. From there it took 45 minutes to drive seven miles (11 km) to reach the dusty town of Lanquín. From there it took another half hour to drive a steep, windy, narrow and rocky road another six miles (9 km) down to the Cahabón River where the pools form. You could say we were ready for a soak.

Thankfully, Semuc Champey lived up to the hype as a “must see” destination in Guatemala–beautiful, relaxing and worth the effort to get there.

View from Semuc Champey mirador

A short but steep climb above the pools brings you to a mirador where you get this awesome aerial view of the tumbling, crystal-clear natural pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

Free fish pedicure

At Semuc Champey limestone deposits have built up over time, forming cascading rims in the riverbed which then fill with water creating natural crystal clear pools. Some pools are deep enough to dive into. All are filled with tiny fish that like to nibble on the dead skin on your legs and feet as you soak. Yep, just like that spa craze from a few years ago, only here its free (save for the 50Q, or about US$6.50, entrance fee per person).

Semuc Champey pools

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

But it’s not all about soaking at Semuc Champey. A steep trail takes through the jungly hillside to a great lookout point above the pools. This is absolutely the best place to really appreciate this natural wonder as the pools spill out before you and the turquoise  and green  water looks impossibly clear.

Semuc Champey pools

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

Where the river hides

There’s also a natural limestone bride at Semuc Champey which crosses over the Cahabón River. At one point the entire river “hides” under a rock ledge, disappearing from view completely. This ledge is actually where the pools form, fed by run off and side streams. So, as you’re soaking in the tranquil pools the river is raging below you. Crazy. This phenomenon of rock and water explains the name. Semuc Champey means  “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language.

River disappearing under the pools of Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey means “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language. This is the point at which the Cahabón River “hides” under a massive stone ledge.

Watch the Cahabón River “hide” under a massive stone ledge in our video, below.


A must-stay near this must-see

We’d heard the whispers about the laid back vibe, cool art work and great food El Retiro  Lodge on the road heading out of Lanquín and it, too, lived up to the hype. Private rooms and private cabañas (120 Q or US$15.50 double for a cabaña) are scattered around a lawn-covered hillside which slopes down to a lazy river.

Most rooms share a strip of clean bathrooms and showers which have been entirely decorated in pottery shards, glass beads, whimsical murals, shells and more.

Eric fixed El Retiro’s Wi-Fi so the manager gave us a free dinner one night. It’s a good thing we hadn’t eaten since breakfast because dinner at El Retiro is an all-you-can-eat buffet affair. Choose the veg option or the meat option (selections change daily) and get to work. At least 10 dishes were laid out in addition to the entrée and all of it (vegetables, salads, breads) was delicious.

El Retiro also has a riverside sauna made from empty glass bottles and that slow-moving river to cool off in. Things can get a bit raucous in the riverside restaurant and bar at night, so choose a room further away if you don’t want peace and quiet.

Lower pools at Semuc Chamepey, Guatemala

A lower, deeper stretch of pools at Semuc Champey.

Read more about travel in Guatemala

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6 comments on “Way Out Water – Semuc Champey & Lanquín, Guatemala

  1. Semuc Champey is one of the coolest places in Guatemala. I love the underground river. Did you make it to the bat cave at sunset? Crazy to stand there as thousands of bats go rushing past you into the evening sky. I am glad to see El Retiro is still doing well. I stayed there in 2002, eating great food, playing Monopoly/drinking rum at night. I recall at the time they had some kind of radical eco-toilet project going on. Do you know if they still have that? Green and sustainable before it was cool. 😉
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  2. Pingback: Semuc Champey: Hidden Mayan River or Surly Old Cat? - From here to there...

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