Party in the Streets – 2013 Carnaval, Las Tablas, Panama (Day 1)


This post is part 2 of 6 in the series Panama Carnival

 

Following Friday night’s crowning of the 2013 Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo Carnaval queens, Saturday marked the official start of Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval (aka Carnival) in Las Tablas, Panama. Things got off to the usual start with tens of thousands of dollars worth of floats, costumes, bands and fireworks parading around the town’s main plaza. By noon everything and everyone was in place and thousands of Carnaval goers, including us, were ready for a party in the streets.

Cross-town rivalry

One of the distinguishing features of Caranval in Panama is the tradition of having two queens–one representing Calle Arriba (uptown) and one representing Calle Abajo (downtown). It’s a cross-town rivalry that plays itself out in every aspect of Carnaval.

Las Tablas Carnaval Calle Arriba float

We’re not exactly sure what the theme of the very first Calle Arriba float of 2013 Carnaval  in Las Tablas, Panama was but it had a cool platform for the queen that raised and lowered.

Each tuna (the team behind each queen) spends hundreds of thousands of dollars to outdo the other when it comes to floats, dresses, bands, fireworks, costumes, staging, production values and more. This money is raised during special events, hosted by the queen, in the year leading up to her Carnaval debut.

Las Tablas Carnaval Calle Abajo float

Team Calle Abajo chose a “Cats on Broadway” theme for their first float of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas. We don’t know why.

The arrival of the first queen on her float followed by her rolling band and supporters on foot was marked by an explosion of noise-making fireworks, as if everyone wasn’t already paying attention. A massive quantity of fireworks was shot off by both sides right on the streets that go around the the main square in Las Tablas.

The police did their best to push the crowd back to a “safe” distance as box after box of fireworks was ominously laid out on the street but no matter how you looked at it, OSHA would not have been amused.

Las Tablas Panama Carnaval Calle Arribafloat

The Calle Arriba queen doing her queenly thing during her first procession on Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

After the fireworks were were over the crowd immediately re-formed in the streets but they parted just enough to let the massive procession of floats and feathers travel around the main square at a snail’s pace. The first Calle Abajo float, featuring their queen Ana Gabriela Rodríguez Vasquez, appeared to be a tribute to Cats on Broadway. For real.

The first Calle Arriba float was, well, we weren’t sure what it was but it wasn’t Cats on Broadway. It also had a nifty platform for their queen, Maruquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez, that raised and lowered impressively and had what appeared to be a stripper pole installed on it. Both queens were certainly wearing stripper heels.

Calle Arriba queen reina Maruquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez Las Tablas Carnava

Meet Las Tablas Calle Arriba 2013 Carnaval queen Maruquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez.

Calle Abajo queen reina Ana Gabriela Rodríguez Vasquez Las Tablas Carnaval

The first float from Calle Abajo during the 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama had a “Cats on Broadway” theme and was designed in such a way that we could only get this from-behind shot of the Calle Ariba queen, Ana Gabriela Rodríguez Vasquez.

Check out our video, below, from the daytime processions on Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama for more pomp and pumps.

That’s not the only thing that was hot

Carnaval takes place in the midst of the dry season in Panama with temperatures regularly breaking 90 degrees farenheit (32 degrees celsius). To help beat the heat, tanker trucks filled with water line the Carnaval parade route. Each is outfitted with a temporary platform on top from which people use a massive hose to douse the dancing, cheering crowd below. The queens and the floats are off limits but everything else is fair game creating a sopping wet dance party called a culeco.

Culeco Doused with water at Las Tablas Carnival Panama

Soaring temperatures are no match for tanker trucks filled with water and hose wielding onlookers who douse the dancing crowd during daytime Carnaval festivities.

The hoses aren’t fire hose strength but they get the job done and soak anyone within range. We stayed above the fray and the spray thanks to the generous hospitality of Rita, the GM of Thrifty Car Rental in Panama which had secured an elevated viewing platform along the parade route.

With price tags up to $500,000 per queen, corporate sponsorship is a big part of Carnaval. Logos appear all over the place and the queens appear in ads for everything from cell phone companies to something called Gastrogel.

Time for a disco nap

The dueling queens made lap after lap around the square until about three o’clock when the floats and the followers turned off the square and headed back to the nearby neighborhoods they came from. We pictured the home base of each queen to be a combination float factory and beauty cave, equal parts glue gun and Elnett.

The end of the daytime parades was our cue to head back to our room at Hostal Villas de Zianit for a quick disco nap in prep for the night time events. As we made our way through the still-thick crowd back toward our truck someone poured what we hoped was water down the back of Karen’s shirt.

Fresh floats

By 11:00 pm we were back in the Thrifty box. The water trucks were gone (they’re only in effect during the day) leaving room for even bigger crowds in the street. Soon, disturbingly large and close fireworks were exploding marking the entrance of fresh floats from each queen. During night processions there is a lead float and then a second float which the queen rides on. These were even more elaborate than the daytime floats but designed in such a way that it was often difficult to get a clear view of the queens.

Check out our noisy and festive video, below, from the over-the-top nighttime processions on Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

 

Calle Arriba float night  Las Tablas Carnival Panama

Huge fantasy animals and a flock’s worth of feather made the first night time float from Calle Arriba truly spectacular during the 2013 Carnaval celebrations in Las Tablas, Panama.

Calle Arriba float night  queen reina Las Tablas Carnaval Panama

The second float from Calle Arriba has their queen, Marquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez, on board and was lead by a pair of flamboyant Harpy Eagles which are the national bird of Panama.

Calle Arriba queen reina Maruquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez Las Tablas Carnival Panama

The 2013 Carnaval queen from team Calle Arriba, Maruquel Madelaine Gonzalez Valesquez, makes her night time debut on Day 1 of Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

After lapping the square for a couple of hours, serenaded by the band that followed each queen banging out her unique, rousing and impossibly repetitive theme songs, these floats also headed back to their respective neighborhoods.

Calle Arriba fireworks  Las Tablas Carnival Panama

(MORE) fireworks from team Calle Arriba during Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

Calle Abajo Las Tablas Carnival Panama float night

Calle Abajo‘s first night time float of Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

Calle Abajo queen reina  Ana Gabriela Rodríguez Vasquez Las Tablas Carnival Panama night

Queen Ana Gabriele Rodríguez Vasquez does her best Cleopatra impression from on top of the second night time float from Calle Abajo during Day 1 of 2013 Carnaval in Las Tablas, Panama.

Calle Abajo princess Las Tablas Carnival Panama night

The princesses that adorn floats along with each team’s queen, like this one on a float from Calle Abajo, get elaborate costumes as well and are chosen, in part, by their ability to pay for them.

What’s that smell?

Embers from the firerworks landed all around us, one of them singeing Eric’s hair. When a mat of fireworks was tossed on the flames creating a massive fireball we figured it was time to get off the plywood viewing platform we’re standing on, just in case.  We’re not ashamed to say we ran.

Ten loud, tense minutes later the finale fireworks finally ended but the crowd was nowhere near ready to call it a night. The temporary outdoor clubs set up a few blocks off the square were raging and plenty of people simply milled around the square through the still-smoldering ashy, papery remains of the fireworks as if re-tracing the path of the floats.

Among the crowd was a former Miss Panama who had turned up in full makeup and evening gown. Many people wanted their picture taken with her and she glowingly obliged (all part of the job). Then an incredibly tall drag queen turned up in a blonde wig and just as many people wanted their picture taken with her. Welcome to Carnaval!

Travel Tip

Get our Top 6 Tips for Surviving Carnaval In Panama in this piece we did for TravelandEscape.ca, the website for Canada’s Travel Channel.


Series Navigation:<< Not for the Faint-Hearted – 2013 Carnaval, Las Tablas, Panama (Day 2)Crowning the Queen(s) – 2013 Carnaval, La Villa de Los Santos & Las Tablas, Panama >>

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