Love/Hate – Cancun, Mexico

Anyone who’s been to Cancun (and even some people who haven’t) will tell you that there are a lot of reasons to love Cancun and a lot of reasons to hate Cancun.

You have to love the beach which is one of the most spectacular stretches of white sand snuggling up to impossibly blue water that you’ll find anywhere in the world, especially after this year’s completion of a  US$71 million beach rehab.

You’d be forgiven for hating the fast food franchises and cheap souvenier shops that litter the place (we’re talking to you Señor Frog), the spring breakers (though they’re increasingly confined to low-rent resorts) and the town’s tourist-targeting transitos (more on them later).

During a recent visit we found some noteworthy resorts to love amongst the general homogenous and hateful mediocrity that jostles for space along the water’s edge. Cancun was created (literally) to provide affordable, respectable resort vacations which it did for years. These days Cancun seems to be going through changes that are moving the destination away from its original mandate–resorts for everyone!–toward a more polarized range of resorts. More and more high-end options are opening up (or expanding) while what used to be decent resorts are slipping into dumpdom. Luxe travelers and el cheapo spring breakers win, but we worry about anyone lookng for amid-range option.

During a recent visit we discovered some resort standouts including (no surprise) the Ritz-Carlton, Cancun.

The Ritz-Carlton Cancun

Though the rooms are the same sort of elegant you find in a Ritz-Carlton anywhere in the world, the view from our room in the Ritz-Carlton, Cancun was all Caribbean.

Yes, there’s a Ritz-Carlton in Cancun and it was one of the first truly high-end resorts to be built there. Your room at the Ritz-Carlton is essentially the same anywhere in the world: a kind of elegant mash up of stuffy style and full-service business–as if they designed the rooms for a British grandmother who happens to run microsoft. Ditto the signature Ritz-Carlton service. We know it’s a little bit dorky, but we love that the staff at every Ritz-Carlton is perfectly trained and referred to as “the ladies and gentlemen” of the Ritz-Carlton. It’s all so proper.

The Ritz-Carlton in Cancun delivers that signature room and signature service on a magnificent stretch of beach. We went through a kind of personality adjustment every time we transitioned from inside our room (grandmotherly tycoon) out onto our ocean-view balcony (sun-kissed hedonist).

The five diamond Ritz-Carlton, Cancun also delivers not one but two five diamond restaurants, prompting the staff–sorry, the ladies and gentlemen–to refer to the hotel as Cancun’s only 15 diamond property.  Look for the hotel to accumulate a few more diamonds with the recent hiring of a new executive chef. To celebrate, the Ritz is putting on a pretty good special package to mark the new chef’s arrival. Be aware that one of their top restaurants is closed for the month of August.

Live Aqua Cancun night

The hip Live Aqua in Cancun channels a bit of Vegas at night.

Okay. So you expect to love the Ritz-Carlton. It’s the Ritz-Carlton for God’s sake.  A Cancun newcomer with a funny name like Live Aqua is another story. But a good one.

Live Aqua is flashy (two white Rolls Royces out front) and hip (Paris Hilton slept here) and has eight of the prettiest pools in Cancun–each one a different shade of aqua. Oh, and you get a hand massage during check in.

Live Aqua also serves up the most beautiful, most bountiful and most delicious breakfast buffet we’ve ever had at any hotel anywhere. And that’s just at their workhorse restaurant.

Live Aqua’s gourmet restaurant, MB (the initials of acclaimed chef Michelle Bernstein), is chic and sophisticated with dishes (and martinis) to match. Rumor has it a new Live Aqua will open in Mexico City in 2011 and we’ll be finishing our full profile of MB for iTraveliShop shortly, so stay tuned.

Live Aqua Cancun Suite

Paris Hilton slept here? One of the suites at Live Aqua in Cancun.

The JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa has great rooms and great views and a great beach but it also has a 35,000 square foot three-level spa with a mind-bogglingly long list of treatments (some featuring hand made products using traditional Mayan ingredients). There’s also a gorgeous workout room that gives sunrise and sunset views and an adults-only pools. Add in the resort’s sophisticated 911 club level (with snacks, cocktails, a pillow menu and more) and you’ve got one decidedly grown-up take on Cancun. Get more details in our full profile of the JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa for iTraveliShop.

JW Marriot Cancun Resort and Spa

Every single room at the JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa has a view like this.

Something else we loved in Cancun was Tacos Rigo which served up good everyday food (tacos, great breakfasts, etc) at good everyday prices.

Something we hated? Being pulled over not once but twice by bribe-seeking transit cops (transitos). The first guy who pulled us over in Cancun was actually a city cop who was staking out a totally stealth red light which we were forced to run to avoid slamming on our brakes and being rear-ended. This guy was calm, reasonable. He was even ready to let us go. Then, as he was handing back copies of our paperwork (NEVER give anyone your originals), he dropped the bomb. He was going to let us go, he said, and if we wanted to we could give him a tip…

Maybe it was wrong, but we gave him 50 pesos (about US$4) for the sheer ballsiness of it.

The second guy who pulled us over was a transito (a transit cop with fairly neutered powers) and he was ballsy too. He claimed we were speeding. Meanwhile, we were going slow enough to force other traffic to fly around us as we prepared to make a turn. He wasn’t giving up on his ridiculous allegations, however, and we were forced to employ extreme evasive action. It goes like this: Karen picks up her little digital camera, puts on her ditziest smile and starts taking pictures of the cop like it’s some sort of exciting vacation moment she’s dying to share with her friends back home.

The transitos, of course, want none of this since shakedowns are officially illegal in Mexico and they get plenty mad. But then they have no choice but to let us go.

cancun traffico

Eric in a Mexican standoff with the second transito that pulled us over for no reason in Cancun.

Why were were we in Cancun in the first place? Get the answer in our next post. Hint: it involves mojitos, Cuba and the Treasury Department…

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Our Latest Work: 3 Deals on Meals, 2 Countries and 1 Brand New Boutique Hotel

  • Our latest pieces for iTraveliShop include a profile of Chan Chich Lodge, which delivers some of the most remote luxury and gourmet dining that we’ve found yet. Read all about it (and the glorious bird watching) here.

  

  • We also found three great deals on meals at some wonderful Mexican resorts (the Ritz-Carlton Cancun, the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya and Garza Blanca in Puerto Vallarta). Get the delicious details,  here.

 

  • Finally, we were delighted to literally stumble upon the very first boutique hotel in Palenque, Chiapas practically on the doorstep of the famous Mayan ruins there. Get a first look at the brand new Boutique Hotel Quinta Chanabnal,  here. Hey, it was good enough for the US Ambassador to Mexico and his family…


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All-Inclusive (almost) All the Time – Riviera Maya, Mexico

These days “all-inclusive” doesn’t necessarily mean impersonal service and mediocre food. In Mexico’s Riviera Maya, the brief but densely-hoteled strip of coastline between Tulum and Cancun, all-inclusive can actually mean anything you want it to mean. You just have to find the right resort for you.

We were lucky enough to spend time at three very different all-inclusive resorts (and one uber boutique hotel) on the Riviera Maya and here’s our take on which resort is right for which traveler.

For World-Class Indulgers ONLY

Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort Riviera Maya is the newest all-inclusive in the Riviera Maya region but it acts like its been doing this forever.

Grnd Velas small Pool

One of three pools at the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort Riviera Maya. This one has an awesome swim up bar where the bartender actually tries to talk you into the better booze even though all-inclusive bartenders often try to cheap out to cut corners.


The resort is all suites (from 1,000 to nearly 2,500 square feet) and all super all-inclusive. Now, it’s one thing to be super all-inclusive but offer okay food, b-list booze and lazy service and amenities. At Grand Velas, the food from five different restaurants is gourmet (we predict at least four diamonds sooner rather than later), the bars are seriously stocked and the staff actually encourages you to enjoy the best of the best whenever and wherever you desire. You want it? They’ll make sure you get it.

It’s a dangerous combination that should only be tackled by experienced hedonists.

The Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya’s interior spaces are chic and decadent as well. Just as they’ve cut no corners with the food, beverages or staff they clearly didn’t cheap-out when it came time to choosing the miles of marble, leagues of rich lumber and acres of art work that polish the place.

Even our (free) in-room snacks and amenities are top-drawer–from Don Julio tequila to Molton Brown toiletries to the wonderful slippers (which Karen stole and is wearing right now as she types this).

Grand Velas Room

Our 1,300 square foot Grand Class suite at the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya.


When we entered our Grand Class suite at the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya the blinds were closed but with the  push of a button, our dramatic view was revealed. Check out this video to see it for yourself…

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KJXvUDloY0[/youtube]


Grand Velas Balcony

The Caribbean just off our balcony (with private plunge pool) at the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya.

If you’re ready to test your pampering prowess check out this news alert we did about an amazing limited time rate that’s currently available at Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Riviera Maya. And check out our full profile of Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort for iTraveliShop.


For the Star-Struck

Maroma Resort & Spa is not an all-inclusive. But it is a legend on the Riviera Maya so we had to check it out. Hey, if it’s good enough for Robert Redford, Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, Sean Penn, Cameron Diaz and Sharon Stone (just to name a few of the hotel’s dozens of famous fans), then it’s (probably) good enough for us.

Okay it was totally good enough for us and delivered all of the style and seclusion you’d expect of a place that makes big time movie stars feel right at home. Even better? The hotel has recently hired a new sommelier and even though, at 24, he’s barely old enough to legally drink Alexandre Rioux puts on a truly lovely wine-pairing dinner. You can read all about it in our wine dinner review for iTraveliShop.

Maroma

Luxury bungalows on the beach at the star-studded Maroma Resort & Spa.

Maroma lookout

A private perch over the Caribbean at Maroma Resort & Spa.

Maroma pool

Maroma pool


For the Healthy Hedonist

Healthy might be stretching it a bit, but Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita Riviera Maya spends more time attending to the needs of your body and soul (not just your stomach) than  most all-inclusives. Yes there’s a spa and an exercise room (that’s seen better days, frankly). But what sets Zoëtry apart are things like hosting a rotating roster of wellness experts who offer guests courses covering everything from getting a good night’s sleep every single night, incorporating better nutrition into your life, losing weight and reducing stress. There are also daily outdoor fitness classes including ab workouts and calorie-burning and muscle-stretching sessions in the resort’s Thalasso sea water pool. And a Temazcal–a kind of pre-hispanic sweat lodge.

But don’t worry. Zoëtry also offers two wonderful bars, three restaurants, a sushi bar, a lovely pool and plenty of other reasons to lie around and work on your tan, not your beta blockers.

Zoetry drinks

Poolside cocktails take a shortcut at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita Riviera Maya.

Zoetry fountain

The view from the open-air lobby at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita Riviera Maya.

Zoetry balcony

Some of the ground-floor rooms at Zoëtry Paraiso de la Bonita Riviera Maya have private plunge pools with Caribbean views.


For the Eco-Friendly Family

We were surprised by three major things at the all-inclusive Hacienda Tres Rios.

1. While many all-inclusives  ban children, accept only older children or say families are welcome then fail to provide the amenities and services that families require, Tres Rios positively wraps its arms around families with special rates and packages (even a special package for single parents traveling with children), roomy rooms, kid-friendly staff even an ice cream cart by the pool that doles out scoops all day long.

Rates also include plenty of kid-and-family-friendly on-resort activities from biking to kayaking to swimming in the resort’s private freshwater cenotes.

2. Tres Rios also not only lives up to its claims of environmental responsibility, it exceeds them. The building design allows the mangrove environment to flow and thrive, the structures were built modularly in nearby Puerto Morelos with finished sections assembled on site, Kone Ecodisc elevators re-use energy generated while descending to help power the elevator’s journey back up,  maids actually leave used towels on the hooks per laundry-reduction efforts,  staff sorts and recycles every piece of garbage every single day, heat generated by the air conditioning system is re-used to heat the resort’s water (which is made up entirely of collected rain water or sea water that’s been desalinated through reverse osmosis), the air-conditioning system is pre-cooled using super-cold water circulated from deep underground and the staff at Hacienda Tres Ríos is required to use both sides of every piece of paper (we saw it happen).

No wonder Hacienda Tres Ríos has received a 95% rating from the Green Globe organization.

Tres Rios Chef Oscar

Talented (and energetic) executive chef Oscar Orbe Quiroz runs seven surprisingly good restaurants and is hands-on for his popular chef's table dinner at Hacienda Tres Rios.


3. Something else we weren’t expecting from a family-friendly, nicely-priced all-inclusive like Tres Rios was noteworthy food but we were pleasantly surprised at every meal–particularly at a chef’s table dinner we enjoyed with gregarious executive chef Oscar Orbe Quiroz. Really, can someone just give this guy a TV show already?


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