Yes, We Have No Tequila – Los Altos Tequila Region, Jalisco, Mexico

The Los Altos region of Jalisco is the second major tequila producing area after the Tequila region. It’s iron-rich red earth and cooler climate are considered to produce some of the best, and often sweeter tequilas.  Some of the most famous premium tequilas sold in the US come from this area including Don Julio (one of our favorites) and Patron, which is made here and shipped up to the US in tanker trucks to be bottled there.

Patron is not available for sale in Mexico, nor do most people here know of its existence, even though the brand has pretty much single-handedly changed the way people in the US think about tequila and helped created a booming premium tequila market. It’s owned by Paul Mitchell of that hair care line, by the way.


It seems every available space in the Los Altos regio is covered with an add for one of its many famed distilleries.

It seems every available space in the Los Altos region is covered with an ad for one of its many distilleries.


The Los Altos region has two main  tequila producing towns: Arandas and the much smaller Atotonilco el Alto, where our favorite tequila, Don Julio, is made. Many other big brands come from the area too, including Cazadores, Centinela, Siete Leguas, Corazon, Tequila El Charro, Tapatio, Hacienda Vieja and many more.

So why didn’t we see ANY tequila being made? Most of the distilleries were strangely offline. Local authorities blamed a dip in demand as a result of the recent swine flu brouhaha for the across the board tequila factory shut downs. However, if you ask us the swine flu was just an excuse for companies to send their employees home for a few weeks and save some bucks in the bad economy.


This old factory building on Hacienda de Guadalupe, outside of Arandas is now a beautiful house, but in the late 1800's this is where tequila was first distilled in the Los Altos region. The brand became known as Cabrito, which is now a brand made by Centinela

This old factory building on Hacienda de Guadalupe, a few miles outside of Arandas, is now part of a beautiful house. However, in the late 1800s this building was used to make the very first tequila distilled in the Los Altos region. The brand became known as El Cabrito and is still made by a distillery called Centinela.


For whatever reason, production at all of the major tequila factories in Arandas was shut down when we were there. We still wanted to visit them all even if they weren’t up and running, but we had little luck getting in even with the direct assistance of the Presidente (Mayor) of Arandas who made a few calls for us. In the end we visited the Don Julio gift shop in Atotnilco el Alto (where we scored a bottle of reposado for $23) and Tequila El Charro and Centinella in Arandas. Only El Charro allowed us to take pictures.


Beautiful blue agave firlds surrond the town of Arandas.

Beautiful blue agave fields surround the town of Arandas.



El Charo Tequila in Arandas

Tequila El Charro in Arandas.


The most interesting thing about  Tequila El Charro, besides their gorgeous facility and wonderful cowboy sculpture (charro roughtly translates to cowboy in English), is their innovative use of both old and new methods and machinery.


That's a lot of tequila, especially since there are 12 of these 50,000 liter storage tanks.

That's a lot of tequila, especially since there are 12 of these 50,000 liter storage tanks at Tequila El Charro.



El Charo had an interesting mix of old & new. Including thes beautiful old copper stills alongside shiny new stanless steel stills.

Tequila El Charro employs an interesting mix of old and new including these beautiful traditional copper stills right alongside shiny new stainless steel stills.


For example, they use wonderful old-school copper stills right next to rows of ultra-modern stainless steel versions. And instead of steaming the blue agave hearts in a traditional oven, Tequila El Charro tosses them into enormous autoclaves where the sweet nectar is extracted in record time.

Centinella also has some twists and turns in its tequila production, including aging the stuff in old Jack Daniels barrels which give their top of the line reposado and anejo tequilas a distinctly whiskey-like roundness and earthiness.


The barrel room, or should we say aikrplane hanger, was the most orderly we have seen. Each barrell used to age El Charo Tequila.

The barrel room at Tequila El Charro was as big as an airplane hanger and the most orderly we've seen.


Just remember: whatever brand of tequila you drink stick to tequilas that are 100% agave, not 51% agave plus a headache-inducing mix of sugars and fake color. If it’s pure agave it will say 100% right on the label.



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Drink it Straight – Cascahuin Tequila Distillery, Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

A visit to Central Mexico wouldn’t be complete without some tequila time so we happily head to El Arenal on the Ruta de Tequila between Guadalajara and the town of Tequila for a look at the Cascahuin Tequila Factory.


The Cascahuin tequila factory in El Aranal, Jaliso, Mexico, which is about 15 miles from the town of Tequila

The Cascahuin tequila factory in El Aranal, Jaliso, Mexico, which is about 15 miles from the town of Tequila


We’ve been to tequila factories before but what we immediately like about this one is its size: not so small that there’s nothing going on but not so big that you feel like you’re in the clutches of corporate tequila.


Splitting the agave before packing them into the steam ovens.

Splitting the agave hearts or "pinas" before packing them into the steam ovens where they're cooked to sweet perfection.


During our visit we got to see all of the stages of tequila production, from a demonstration of how the blue agave is pruned and harvested to the halving of the harvested agave hearts (above) before they’re stuffed into massive steam oven to cook.


Agave, fresh out of the oven being sent to the extractor to get all the liquids & sugars out.

Agave, fresh out of the oven, being sent to the extractor which crushes it to get all the liquids and sugars out.


Video – Roasted Agave is removed from the ovens and placed on a conveyor belt where it passes through a shredder. The Juice and liquids are then removed. These liquids, called mosto are then put in a vat to ferment, where the sugars are converted into alcohol.


Tequila mosto bubling during fermntation

Tequila mosto bubbling during fermentation. See video here.


Previously cooked agave was being crushed and juiced and juice from a previous crushing was happily fermenting away in massive vats of bubbling, sweet-smelling liquid. Watching these various steps it’s hard to believe the end product is so clean and delicious, but it is!


The still room.

The still room.


After double distilling totally clear blanco tequila is produced and ready to drink or put in barrels for varying lengths of time to create reposado (rested) or anejo (aged) tequila. This stage is like aging wine and lets the tequila take on the flavors and colors of the barrels and smooth out any rough edges.


One of the barrel rooms where the tequila is aged  for reposado & anejo.

One of the barrel rooms where blanco tequila is aged for varying periods of time to make either reposado (rested) or anejo (aged) tequila.


The Cascahuin Tequila Factory has a grassy and shaded back garden that makes a wonderful spot to sip some straight tequila or make yourself a Paloma (Squirt and tequila) or a Charro Negro (Coke and tequila).


Some of Cascahuin's line of blanco, joven, reposado & anejo tequilas.

Some of Cascahuin's products including blanco, joven, reposado and anejo tequilas.




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Still Here – Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

Here are some more pictures from Tequila including our visit to the massive Jose Cuervo distillery (Mundo Cuervo) as well as the tiny Columpio distillery for a look at both extremes of tequila making.


The Jose Cuervo Crow.  In case you hadn’t figured it out, cuervo means crow in Spanish.

The Jose Cuervo crow. In case you hadn’t figured it out, cuervo means crow in Spanish.

La Cava de la Reserva de la Familia holds the cream of the crop at Cuerco.  This is where the Family de la Reserva lable is aged in oak barrels.  Additionally, the Cava holds some REALLY old Tequila, part of the families private stash.

La Cava de la Reserva de la Familia holds the cream of the crop at the Jose Cuervo distillery. This is where the delicious Family de la Reserva is aged in oak barrels. Additionally, the Cava holds some REALLY old tequila, part of the family's private stash.

A Jimador makes the not so easy job od harvesting the agave look easy.

A jimador makes the not-so-easy job of harvesting the blue agave look easy.

Fields of agave surround the town of Tequila.

Fields of blue agave surround the town of Tequila.

Things are on a different scale at the small, basic Columpio distillery.  They even cook there agave with fire in the oven shown here, as opposed to steam at the larger distilleries.  This leads to a completely different smell and flavor to the tequila.

Things are on a different scale at the small-scale Columpio distillery where they cook their agave with fire in the oven shown here, as opposed to steaming it as the larger distilleries do. This gives Columpio tequila a distinctive smoky, firey smell and flavor.

The stills at the Columpio distillery are just a tad more rustic than those at Herradura or Cuervo.

The stills at the Columpio distillery are just a tad more rustic than those at Herradura or Jose Cuervo...

Our host in Tequila, Mike, sampling the goods at the Columpio distillery, straight out of the plastic 5 liter bottle.  Hurts so good.

Our host in Tequila, Mike, sampling the goods at the Columpio distillery, straight out of a plastic five liter bottle. Hurts so good!



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