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Photo Essay: Colombia’s Caño Cristales “Liquid Rainbow” River

Located in the vast and rarely visited Los Llanos area in Colombia, Caño Cristales has been called the river of five colors and the liquid rainbow. It’s also been called the most beautiful river in the world. We’ve seen a lot of rivers on our Trans-Americas Journey and we’re inclined to agree. It’s not easy to reach and, until the mid 2000s, wasn’t even open to tourism because of FARC activity. Those who do make it to the small town of La Macarena, the gateway for Caño Cristales, between June and November are rewarded with a natural spectacle not seen anywhere else in the world as rare and delicate water plants explode with color, flooding the already lovely river with red, blue, green, orange and yellow hues. Shades of red and green are most common, as you will see in our photo essay.

Cano-Cristales_Colombia IMG_2961 Liquid-rainbow-cano-Cristales-Colombia River-of-Five-Colors_-Macarena-Colombia Cano-Cristales_Macarena-Meta-Colombia Cano-Cristales-color-river IMG_3279 Cano-Cristales-Waterfall Cano-Cristales-rainbow-river IMG_3135 cano-Cristales-multicolored-river Cano-Cristales-plants Macarenia-clavigera Colombia-colored-River_Cano-Cristales

 

Check out this feature we did for BBC Travel for more about travel to Caño Cristales including how to get there, local legends, awesome community tourism and just a touch of science.

 

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Bocas del Toro Travel Guide Part 1: What to Do & What to Eat – Bocas del Toro, Panama

This post is part 1 of 2 in the series Bocas del Toro Guide

Christopher Columbus arrived in Bocas del Toro, Panama in 1502. In the 17th century, pirates used the sheltered bays in the area to repair their ships. Rumors of buried treasure persist. British author Graham Greene finally got to Bocas in the early ’80s on his third attempt to reach the area. These days the conquistadors, pirates and old-school adventure travel writers are long gone, replaced by a growing number of tourists. Here’s part 1 of our 2 part  Bocas del Toro Travel Guide. This one is focused on what to do and what to eat. Check out part 2 to find out where to sleep in Bocas del Toro on any travel budget.

Getting to Bocas del Toro and Bocas town

Generally speaking, when people say Bocas del Toro (Mouth of the Bull) they’re referring to the whole Bocas del Toro Archipelago of nine islands. But it gets confusing since the main town in the archipelago, located on Isla Colon, is called Bocas town. This is where you will get off the ferry from Almirante on the mainland (30 minutes, US$5 per person in an open sided motor boat) or off your flight from San Jose, Costa Rica or Panama City.

Bocas del Toro, Panama

Bocas del Toro in Panama is not short on charm, as this guest house proves.

Bocas town wouldn’t exist at all if not for the United Fruit Company (now known as Chiquita Brands) which created the town as part of its now defunct banana operations in the area. Today, Bocas town still has more bicycles than cars, though a vehicle ferry makes the run between Isla Colon and the mainland daily. The number of buildings in Bocas town has increased but they’re still mostly small, wooden structures (there’s a five storey maximum) simply built and brightly painted in true Caribbean style. Electricity is supplied from massive, and massively unreliable, diesel generators.

Bocas town has the charm and pace that beach towns in Belize wish they had and a smaller price tag to boot. It’s like a Central American version of Key West from 50 years ago and it makes the perfect base for exploring the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, which we did for two weeks.

Panama Beer  - Bocas del Toro, Panama

Beer on the beach, just another day in Bocas del Toro, Panama.

What to do in Bocas del Toro, Panama

Playa Bluff: You have to work a bit for it–a five mile (eight km) bike ride from Bocas town (about 45 minutes)–but your effort delivers you to one of the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen. The sand at Playa Bluff is gold. The beach is wide and flat. And nearly deserted. Shade-giving sea grape trees hug the high tide line. The waves crash mercilessly, so much so that you can’t actually swim at Playa Bluff. No problem. That allows you to focus on settling into the chair or hammock you’ve claimed and downing your cold beverage of choice, supplied by nearby Playa Bluff Lodge. If you had your heart set on swimming, we hear Mimbi Timbi Beach, further down the coast, has a naturally protected pool.

Playa Bluff  - Bocas del Toro, Panama

We told you the sand on Playa Bluff, in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, is gold.

Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach): You’ll need to catch a public bus (US$3 round trip from the small central park in Bocas town) going to Boca del Drago (Mouth of the Dragon) if you want to visit Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach), and you most certainly want to visit Starfish Beach unless you’ve got something against giant, bright red starfish. They’re common in the archipelago but they love this beach in particular for some reason. Buses leave town for Boca del Drago on even hours and come back from Boca del Drago to town on odd hours. From Boca del Drago you can catch a water taxi to Starfish Beach (US$1.50 per person) or walk for 30 minutes along the coastline.

Starfish Beach - Bocas del Toro, Panama

Two of the starfish that congregate in the calm, warm, shallow bay off Starfish Beach in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago in Panama.

Playa Estrella - Bocas del Toro, Panama

A water taxi waits to take travelers to and from Starfish Beach (Playa Estrella) in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago in Panama.

To be honest, we were expecting to be tripping over starfish but there were only a dozen or so around when we were at Starfish Beach. The smart ones fled. We watched in horror as person after person picked up the fragile creatures for photos or just for the heck of it despite signs all over the area telling people to keep their hands off so they don’t kill the starfish.

Don't touch the starfish sign - Starfish Beach, Bocas del Toro, Panama

Despite warning signs like this all over Starfish Beach, many, many visitors still insist on touching and picking up the starfish which can be deadly.

Enterprising locals have set up makeshift kitchens on Starfish Beach and we were delighted with our fresh grilled fish lunch. Fried chicken and even lobster were available too (US$7-US$12). We rented beach chairs (US$4 each for the day) and enjoyed cold beer (US$2) before getting back into the crystal clear, warm, protected water in the bay. It was like floating in a salty, warm pool full of pipefish and humans tormenting starfish.

Starfish - Bocas del Toro, Panama

Don’t touch the starfish in the bay at Starfish Beach!

Red Frog Beach: The most famous beach in the area requires a 15 minute water taxi ride form Bocas town (US$5 per person plus US$3 per person to walk through the private property at the dock) followed by a 10 minute walk to reach the beach itself. But famous doesn’t always mean fabulous and Red Frog Beach left us a bit non-plussed. It’s wide and the surf is swimable but we found Playa Bluff to be much more beautiful and much, much less crowded.

Red frog Beach - Bastamientos Island,  Bocas del Toro, Panama

Red Frog Beach in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago in Panama before the arrival of the day tripping crowds.

Yes, we saw the red frogs for which the beach is named. They’re strawberry frogs, actually, and visitors are so anxious to see them that local kids gather them up and charge you to take a picture of them. We’re fairly certain the captured frogs were dead by the end of the day. Luckily, we saw some in the wild too.

Strawberry poison dart frog - Red frog Beach, Bocas del Toro, Panama

Red Frog Beach gets its name from the strawberry frogs which live above the high tide line.

There are some hotels on Red Frog Beach, notably Palmar Tent Lodge and its bohemian tented beach safari vibe with solar power, outdoor showers, purified rain water and daily yoga. In late 2013 a mega resort called Red Frog Beach Island Resort & Spa opened as well.

Day trip to the Zapatilla islands: Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park was founded in 1988 and was Panama’s first marine park. It protects a vast area in and around the Bocas archipelago, including Zapatilla 1 and Zapatilla 2, a pair of neighboring island so named because someone thought they resembled a pair of shoes (zapato means shoe in Spanish and zapatilla means little shoe). The only way to visit the Zapatillas is on a day trip in a long motorized wooden boat with a driver (around US$40 per person including mask and snorkel plus US$10 per person park entry fee).

Zapatilla Island - Bocas del Toro, Panama

We finally managed to find a stretch of beach on Zapatilla 1 that wasn’t strewn with washed-up garbage.

The day we decided to visit the area the sea was rough which meant we didn’t see any dolphins as we passed through Dolphin Bay. It also meant that it was too dangerous to reach Zapatilla 2 so we had to content ourselves with Zapatilla 1. This was not easy since Zapatilla 1 was ringed with a mini-moat of garbage, mostly plastic stuff probably brought there from Bocas town on the tides including a bunch of flip flops which struck us as ironic. And sad.

The Zapatilla tour includes a lunch stop at a small nearby restaurant. We enjoyed the snorkeling around and under the restaurant’s dock and pier more than what we’d done around Zapatilla 1 (no garbage for starters).We saw soft corals, starfish and baby reef fish. But be warned: meal prices were extremely high at this restaurant. We’d recommend bringing your own food for this long day outing.

Smithsonian Tropical Research Center: The Smithsonian Tropical Research Center about a mile (two km) from Bocas town can be toured as well though we never got to it.

Oggling at the sunset: Any local will tell you that the best place to watch the spectacular sunsets is from Bibi’s on the Beach, an open-air, thatch-roof restaurant and bar on the waterfront on Carnero Island just a stone’s throw across the bay from Bocas town. Water taxis will take you to and fro and there’s a generous happy hour nightly.

Sunset Bastamientos Island - Bocas del Toro, Panama

Sunset in Panama’s Bocas del Toro Archipelago.

What to eat in Bocas Town

Lili’s Cafe, on main street, is a solid spot for moderately priced passable food served slowly on a pier. However, the real reason to come here is to try their famous, fiery-hot housemade Killin’ Me Man hot sauce which gets its considerable punch from habaneros, mustard and a slew of secret ingredients.

Eating in Bocas del Toro, Panama

Main Street in Bocas Town is dotted with eateries like this one.

The Wine Bar, on the second floor of a building on the inland side of main street, has a proper climate-controlled cellar for wine storage (though we’re not sure how climate-controlled the wine’s journey to the archipelago is). They offer a wide range of wines by the glass (around US$4 per glass when we were there)  which change every day. There’s a breezy balcony and interior living rooms and dining rooms for tapas or more substantial plates. Art rotates in and out of the place and there’s life music on Friday nights.

The RipTide Bar & Restaurant has two things going for it: it’s located in a converted ship that still bobs in the water and they offer things like “chicken fried steak and Texas holdem” specials and broadcast events like the Super Bowl which reliably attracts local expats as well as travelers. Don’t expect to try any Panamanian or Caribbean food here. It’s all US comfort food all the way, at reasonable prices.

Cute - Bocas del Toro, Panama

Opening hours can be unpredictable in Bocas Town.

It was too rich for our blood (around US$25 per person), but diners rave about the six course, prix fixe Mediterranean food at Guari Guari. Reservations are a must, it’s cash only and the restaurant is located a mile (two km) from the center of town.

We were disturbed to learn from another traveler that it looks like Chris Fish, a closet-sized take-out-only place we found on the waterfront on main street not far from the ferry docks, seems to have closed. It was our go-to spot for big red snapper sandwiches and huge plates of made-to-order fish and chips with hand cut fries and coleslaw for US$5.50 Ask around and let us know if it’s really closed or merely moved.

Main street, Isla Colon - Bocas del Toro, Panama

This is where our favorite cheap meal place, Chris Fish, used to be located on Main Street in Bocas Town, but other travelers told us it may now be closed. Update, please.

Another good budget travel eating option, also on main street not far from the ferry docks, is the no-frills place with the huge machines out front slowly cooking succulent chicken rotisserie style. You can buy a quarter, half or whole chicken, each one rubbed with a delicious Caribbean mix of spices and served with fries or patacones (fried discs of mashed plantain) along with hot and delicious housemade hot sauce. Get your ice-cold beer at the little store next door.

For a good cheap snack, pick up a few of the meat-filled empanadas at John’s Bakery (less than US$1), but grab ’em early. They’re usually sold out by noon.

There are a few moderately well-stocked Chinese-owned small supermarkets in Bocas town. There’s also the Super Gourmet, an adorable, well-stocked gourmet market. You won’t have any trouble finding ingredients to cook up if your accommodation has a kitchen.

Super-Gourmet-Bocas-del-Toro

The Super Gourmet market in Bocas Town lives up to its name.

Weird Bocas del Toro

  • There’s a guy who walks around Bocas Town at night with a large, intricate paper plane on a string tied to a stick. When the spirit moves him, he starts running down the street to make his plane “fly”.
  • There’s a Chinese temple on the water near the fire station with Chinese characters in red across the front. It’s never been used, but it will never be sold or torn down either. It’s been sealed and sacred since the Buddha inside it somehow remained upright through a strong earthquake in 1991.
  • There’s an old man who collects tin cans. When  he has more than he can carry he lines them up in the middle of main street and crushes each one with a cinder block very methodically.

Bocas del Toro travel budget tip

Whenever we head to a beautiful island location (which is embarrassingly frequently) we get ready for the sticker shock. After all, the logic goes, everything has to be shipped or flown in and the customers are a bunch of geographically captive holiday makers so who cares if we double the price of beer/Band-aids/beds. Imagine our delight when we realized that prices for most things in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago are only marginally higher than they are on the mainland. We don’t know why and we don’t care.

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Way Out Water – Semuc Champey & Lanquín, Guatemala

You’ve got to endure a slow, bumpy, curvy road to get to the serenity of the famous natural pools of Semuc Champey. First we passed through the grotty, congested city of Coban before turning off the pavement. From there it took 45 minutes to drive seven miles (11 km) to reach the dusty town of Lanquín. From there it took another half hour to drive a steep, windy, narrow and rocky road another six miles (9 km) down to the Cahabón River where the pools form. You could say we were ready for a soak.

Thankfully, Semuc Champey lived up to the hype as a “must see” destination in Guatemala–beautiful, relaxing and worth the effort to get there.

View from Semuc Champey mirador

A short but steep climb above the pools brings you to a mirador where you get this awesome aerial view of the tumbling, crystal-clear natural pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

Free fish pedicure

At Semuc Champey limestone deposits have built up over time, forming cascading rims in the riverbed which then fill with water creating natural crystal clear pools. Some pools are deep enough to dive into. All are filled with tiny fish that like to nibble on the dead skin on your legs and feet as you soak. Yep, just like that spa craze from a few years ago, only here its free (save for the 50Q, or about US$6.50, entrance fee per person).

Semuc Champey pools

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

But it’s not all about soaking at Semuc Champey. A steep trail takes through the jungly hillside to a great lookout point above the pools. This is absolutely the best place to really appreciate this natural wonder as the pools spill out before you and the turquoise  and green  water looks impossibly clear.

Semuc Champey pools

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.

Where the river hides

There’s also a natural limestone bride at Semuc Champey which crosses over the Cahabón River. At one point the entire river “hides” under a rock ledge, disappearing from view completely. This ledge is actually where the pools form, fed by run off and side streams. So, as you’re soaking in the tranquil pools the river is raging below you. Crazy. This phenomenon of rock and water explains the name. Semuc Champey means  “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language.

River disappearing under the pools of Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey means “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language. This is the point at which the Cahabón River “hides” under a massive stone ledge.

Watch the Cahabón River “hide” under a massive stone ledge in our video, below.

 

A must-stay near this must-see

We’d heard the whispers about the laid back vibe, cool art work and great food El Retiro  Lodge on the road heading out of Lanquín and it, too, lived up to the hype. Private rooms and private cabañas (120 Q or US$15.50 double for a cabaña) are scattered around a lawn-covered hillside which slopes down to a lazy river.

Most rooms share a strip of clean bathrooms and showers which have been entirely decorated in pottery shards, glass beads, whimsical murals, shells and more.

Eric fixed El Retiro’s Wi-Fi so the manager gave us a free dinner one night. It’s a good thing we hadn’t eaten since breakfast because dinner at El Retiro is an all-you-can-eat buffet affair. Choose the veg option or the meat option (selections change daily) and get to work. At least 10 dishes were laid out in addition to the entrée and all of it (vegetables, salads, breads) was delicious.

El Retiro also has a riverside sauna made from empty glass bottles and that slow-moving river to cool off in. Things can get a bit raucous in the riverside restaurant and bar at night, so choose a room further away if you don’t want peace and quiet.

Lower pools at Semuc Chamepey, Guatemala

A lower, deeper stretch of pools at Semuc Champey.

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La Quebrada Cliff Divers – Acapulco, Guerrero State, Mexico

The La Quebrada Cliff Divers have been icons of Acapulco since the group officially formed in 1934 after the owner of the cliff side Hotel Mirador blasted out a section of rocky coastline below his hotel to create a dramatic death-defying gulch for the divers to leap into as a show for tourists.

A veritable Who’s Who of celebrities and politicians have watched the spectacle over the years and ABC’s now-defunct “Wide World of Sports” even featured footage of their feats in its show opening for years.

A classic and spectacular dive from a La Quebrada Cliff Diver in Acapulco, Mexico.


More than 75 years later, however, we feared the La Quebrada divers may have become a cheesy side show. We were wrong. The La Quebrada Cliff Divers remain spectacular–sexy, fearless athletes who leap nearly 100 feet past a deadly jagged cliff face five times a day. Wearing nothing more than a Speedo they plunge into the narrow gulch welcomed by surging surf which fluxuates between six and 16 feet deep. It’s nuts.

Once in position, La Quebrada Cliff Divers take a moment to prepare themselves and wait for the right conditions in the churning waves and surge below.


Hollywood’s glitterati may not be flocking to Acapulco to see the divers anymore, but these guys have become stars in their own rights. An international film crew was shooting a GE commercial featuring the divers while we were there.

Being a La Quebrada Cliff Diver is still an honored profession with skills passed on from experienced divers to new recruits. The divers perform various shows each day and we watched more than a half dozen performances (including spectacular night time dives with flaming torches) and we were wowed every time.

A double-double from the spectacular La Quebrada Cliff Divers of Acapulco.

A night diver takes our breath away.


The following composites of photos are a kind of time-lapse display of the various stages of two of the most amazing daytime dives we saw.



You might see some of the following dive sequence in a GE commercial that’s currently on television. Note the camera in the lower left-hand corner…


This sequence shows a spectacular double dive sequence… 


And here’s our video of some of the daytime diving….


The following composites of photos are a kind of time-lapse display of the various stages of two of the most amazing nighttime dives we saw, including the gorgeous finale dive with lighted torches.


And here’s our video of some of the night diving…


Two young La Quebrada Cliff Divers work the crowd for tips.

This statue commemorating the La Quebrada Cliff Divers of Acapulco looks down on the gulch and the divers' ongoing feats.


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You Know You Want It: MORE Antarctica Photos

This post is part 2 of 3 in the series Antarctica

Because penguins are adorable and no one believes we were THIS close to killer whales or that icebergs get to be the size of skyscrapers we’re putting up even more of Eric’s photos from our recent Antarctic adventure aboard the MV Antarctic Dream. To learn more about travel to Antarctica, check out the feature we did for the Dallas Morning News including tips for making the most of your trip to Antarctica and our feature for the Minneapolis Star-Tribune about all of the onboard adventures you’ll have.

Now, we turn it over to Mother Nature (you’re welcome).

The beauty of Antarctica.


The crazy blues created by icebergs in Antarctic water.


An excursion away from the M/V Antarctic Dream in small zodiacs to get closer to wildlife and icebergs.


Gentoo penguins are impossibly charming.


Gentoo penguins with our home for 11 days, the M/V Antarctic Dream, in the background.


Gentoo penguins in Port Lockroy, one of the shore excursions on an Antarctic adventure.


It was tempting to travel through this arch created as wind eroded away an iceberg but that’s strictly forbidden since icebergs can capsize at any moment.


Antarctica, land of the midnight sun.


A killer whale (orca) welcoming party.


The crabeater seals were curious but cautious.


It’s clear how chinstrap penguins got their name.


Gentoo penguins at Port Lockroy, one of the land excurstions during an Antarctic adventure.


Gentoo penguins at Port Lockroy, one of the land excurstions during an Antarctic adventure.


Gentoo penguins were busy collecting small stones to construct their nests with when we were in Antarctica.


It was tempting to travel through this arch created as wind eroded away an iceberg but that’s strictly forbidden since icebergs can capsize at any moment.


A change in the weather had us traveling through surface ice that was clearly beginning to re-form.


Colder temperatures created conditions that made us glad our M/V Antarctic Dream ship was built as an ice-breaker with a reinforced hull.


This is what passes for flirting as gentoo penguins woo their partners so they can do what they came here to do…


…which they are not shy about at all.


Gentoo penguins are the cutest waddlers in the world.


Iceberg art in Antarctica.


Navigation charts keeping us on course and away from the bergs in Antarctica.

 

Check out the first post from our Antarctica adventure for more photos and stories.

 

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The White Continent or Bust – Antrctica

This post is part 1 of 3 in the series Antarctica

We know it’s been a few weeks since we’ve put up any new blog posts but we’ve got a good reason: we were in Antarctica!

No, we didn’t drive there. LAN Airlines got us to Ushuaia (the southernmost city in the world) and back and from there we sailed along the Antarctic peninsula for 11 days on the MV Antarctic Dream. Our thanks to both companies.

Our home for 11 days: the M/V Antarctic Dream

 

Followers of our Journey know that we’ve been anticipating our Antarctic adventure since August and the planet’s most remote continent totally lived up the hype and our expectations.

And that’s not even a BIG iceberg by Antarctic standards.

 

For one thing, penguins are even cuter than you think and we saw thousands of them–mainly gentoo and chinstraps.

Gentoo penguins near Port Lockroy, one of the shore excursions during an Antarctic adventure.


Gentoo penguins near Port Lockroy, one of the shore excursions during an Antarctic adventure.


Gentoo penguins near Port Lockroy, one of the shore excursions during an Antarctic adventure.


Gentoo penguins near Port Lockroy, one of the shore excursions during an Antarctic adventure.

 

We also got a rare and exciting sighting of a lone emperor penguin (the four foot tall stars of March of the Penguins) on an iceberg far, far from its usual home.

A lost and lonely emperor penguin adrift on an iceberg.

 

The icebergs themselves (which can reach more than 10 miles in length) were stars of the trip as well. They came in intricate wind-swept shapes, impossible blue colors and the ice is ultra-clear–like glass. We know because Karen braved the frigid water and reached in to retrieve a small chunk to enjoy in our on-board cocktails that evening.

Literally the tip of the iceberg in Antarctica.


Icebergs as art in Antarctica.

 

We did NOT put our hands in the water during a zodiac excursion during which our inflatable boat was surrounded by a pod of seven killer whales. We also sighted minke whales on a couple of occasions and crabeater seals and Weddell seals also made appearances.

Our zodiacs were surrounded by pod of killer whales during one shore excursion in Antarctica.


Our zodiacs were surrounded by pod of killer whales during one shore excursion in Antarctica.


That killer whale dorsal fin is at least three feet tall and its heading straight for our shipmates.

 

There were also many human highlights on the ship including “Ernie Shack, Adventure Addict”, the captain’s wife, the crazy defense attorney from New York who brought along her Snoopy Snowcone maker, el capitan guapo, The Glen (who went skinny dipping one day and performed a necessarily brief yet impressive re-enactment of the loping way penguins swim), our fearless leader Pablo and, of course, Maxi. Oh, and Jacques Cousteau’s granddaughter Céline Cousteau was on the ship with a film crew working on a series of TV show about the waters around Chile.

Our shipmate The Glen (who has a tattoo of the Antarctic continent on his back) went skinny dipping in the frigid Antarctic waters off Deception Island just like…


…the penguins.

To learn more about travel to Antarctica, check out the feature we did for the Dallas Morning News including tips for making the most of your trip to Antarctica and our feature for the Minneapolis Star-Tribune about all of the onboard adventures you’ll have.

GLAD WE HAD

All travelers to Antarctica are required to have a medical evacuation insurance policy just in case something awful happens out there in the middle of nowhere. On Call International has covered us on our Trans-Americas Journey for more than a year now so we didn’t have to worry about arranging coverage (or dealing with a catastrophe). Because we were already covered we could focus on just being excited about this trip of a lifetime.

We weren’t taking any chances with the notoriously rough waters of the Drake Passage where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans crash up against each other so we went the prescription route and used a Scopolamine patch. But we also armed ourselves with homeopathic remedies including a pair of Sea Bands. These simple, cheap, reusable devices–picture an old-school wrist sweatband like McEnroe used to wear with a plastic ball embedded in one side–stave off nausea caused by motion sickness (or morning sickness) by applying pressure to a specific point in your wrist. The combo worked and we made it through the passage without getting seasick.

We’re pretty sure nothing could stave off seasickness among the passengers on a different ship, the Clelia II, which sailed just a few weeks after our Antarctic trip. However, the Clelia II broke down in the Drake Passage and got tossed around by 40′ waves for a day or two. The ship is back in port now and everyone on board is fine but this report and dramatic video shows how rough it was for passengers and crew on the stranded ship.

 

Our route from Ushuaia, Argentina at the bottom of South America, across the Drake Passage and on to the Antarctic Peninsula.

 

Check out our follow-up Antarctica post to see many more photos.

 

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