Welcome to Part 1 in our Best Of the Trans-Americas Journey 2012 series of posts. Part 1 is all about the Best Adventures & Activities from the past year on the road including SCUBA diving with hammerhead sharks in Costa Rica and perfecting the art of doing nothing on a (nearly) deserted beach in Panama. Part 2 covers the Best Food & Beverages of 2012 and Part 3 covers the Best Hotels of the year.
Yes, end of year round-ups can be lame. On the other hand, they can also be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are. Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a quick and easy way for you to get the best tips, tricks and truths that made our Trans-Americas Journey travels so special in 2012. Maybe, just maybe, you’ll hit the road yourself in 2013 (or 2014, no pressure).
We did manage to spend some time outside of our truck doing and seeing exciting things. In no particular order, here are the…
Best adventures & activities of 2012
Best adventure of the year: SCUBA diving with dozens of sharks including scalloped hammerheads, tiger sharks, reef sharks and all kinds of rays with Undersea Hunter off Cocos Island in Costa Rica. Find out more about this adventure and what it feels like to be 100 feet (33 meters) underwater surrounded by sharks in the Cocos Island feature we did for the Sunday travel section of the Minneapolis Star Tribune.
A hammerhead making a quick underwater u-turn as it spots Eric clinging to a rock while diving in the waters around Cocos Island, Costa Rica. Photo courtesy of Rodrigo Roesch de Bedout.
Best extreme tubing: There’s a reason they give you a life vest, helmet and elbow guards when you go tubing with Blue River Resort & Hot Springs at the base of Rincon de la Vieja Volcano in the Guanacaste region of Costa Rica. This trip down the Rio Azul (which really is an incredible shade of blue) is no lazy float. Best to think of it as white water rafting without the raft.
Best (nearly) deserted beach bumming: Playa Bluff on Isla Colon in the Bocas del Toro region of Panama (below) will take your breath away with truly golden sand (and not the icky sticky kind), Caribbean blue water, shockingly powerful waves, chairs and hammocks and just a handful of visitors. Add in the recently opened Playa Bluff Lodge directly opposite the beach with US$1.50 icy cold Panama beers, a restaurant and even stylish rooms (US$95 including breakfast) and it’s really, really hard to leave. Totally worth the 5.5 mile (9 km) bike or taxi ride from Bocas town.
Best all-around rafting trip: The Pacuare River in Costa Rica is a glorious combination of peaceful floats (ample time to appreciate the densely-jungled riverbanks and steep hillsides) punctuated with plenty of white-knuckle moments over exciting stretches of white water. Book your Pacuare River rafting trip with RiosTropicales and your time off the river is just as spectacular thanks to an amazingly rustic yet comfy river lodge they’ve built for their guests.
Best adventure we never thought we’d have: While SCUBA diving with sharks around Cocos Island we got an unexpected bonus with the chance to dive to 300 feet below the surface of the ocean in Undersea Hunter’s DeepSee submersible. You know how they say it’s another world down there? They’re right.
Best perseverance-pays-off animal encounter: We’ve been trying to see whale sharks for years and either our timing is all wrong for spotting these seasonal giants or our timing is right but our luck sucks, as was the case when we spent three days diving at the right time in the right place in Belize but we still didn’t see a single whale shark. This is why we returned to Mexico for three days in 2012 just to try to see whale sharks. And it worked. Not only did we finally get in the water with whales sharks we snorkeled around with more than 100 of the giants as they cruised by feeding on plankton with their VW-Beetle-swallowing mouths agape.
Best swimming hole: Ojo de Agua on Ometepe Island in Lake Nicaragua where two bucks gets you access to chairs, tables, benches, hammocks and sun or shade (you choose) around roomy, crystal clear, refreshingly cold, spring-fed pools. The bottoms have been left natural but the sides have been built up in stone and concrete to create depth. There’s even a rope swing and a few enterprising vendors selling snacks and cold beer.
Best adventure activity we’d never heard of:Topless Sport Fishing in Costa Rica. And, no, we didn’t do it.
It took more than a decade, but we finally made it to Cocos Island National Park in Costa Rica. Ever since we heard about the island’s history (beloved by both pirates and Presidents), remoteness (it takes days to get there) and sharks (tiger sharks, silky sharks, whale sharks and endangered scalloped hammerheads congregate here in big numbers) we’ve been dreaming of SCUBA diving around Cocos Island.
Groups of endangered hammerhead sharks are regularly seen by divers in the waters around Cocos Island in Costa Rica. Photo courtesy of the Undersea Hunter Group.
Part of the reason it took us so long to get to Cocos Island is that it’s 350 miles off the coast of Costa Rica. Unfortunately, we did not go for the Chitty-Chitty-Bang- Bang version of our truck so our only option, like most people, was to travel to Cocos Island on a live aboard dive boat. So that’s what we (finally) did.
Our home during a 10 day trip to Cocos Island was Undersea Hunter‘s M/V Argo live aboard dive boat. It’s best to think of the Argo and its nine cabins as a stylish, floating, all-inclusive hotel that you can never leave except to go diving. Heaven.
The swanky M/V Argo live aboard dive boat, operated by Undersea Hunter, our home on the high seas during a 10 day diving trip to Cocos Island in Costa Rica.
Pirates and presidents
Like so many treasures, pirates claimed Cocos Island as their own, first as a life-saving source of fresh water and wood for ship repairs, then as a bank. Many believe that hundreds of tons of gold, religious artifacts and other ill-gotten riches worth billions of dollars by today’s standards remain hidden on the island where pirates buried their loot long ago.
Panorama of Cocos Island in Costa Rica with the M/V Argo in the right foreground (click to enlarge).
President Franklin Delano Roosevelt made three trips to Cocos Island in search of a different kind of treasure. In 1935, during his first visit to the island, President Roosevelt caught a 110 pound sailfish. The fish was shipped back to the United States where the avid fisherman had it mounted and hung in the White House.
Pirates maintained their unofficial ownership of Cocos Island until 1832 when Costa Rica claimed the land. Cocos Island National Park was created in 1978 and made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
Rangers had just placed this Costa Rican flat on a hill above Chatham Bay on Cocos Island when we visited.
“The most beautiful island in the world”
When Jacques Cousteau saw Cocos he proclaimed it “the most beautiful island in the world.” He also carved the name of his research vessel into a rock on the shore of one of the bays that ring the island (a stunt that’s now prohibited).
This rock inscription marks Jacques Cousteau’s visit to Cocos Island which he called “the most beautiful island in the world.”
The rocky island’s remoteness, jagged angles, 300 waterfalls and deep green lushness have inspired movie directors and authors too. Staff on board the Argo, pointed out one particularly elegant waterfall which, they said, appears in the opening scenes of the original Jurassic Park blockbuster. Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island may have been set on Cocos Island.
One of the more than 300 dramatic waterfalls on Cocos Island–this is not the one used in Jurassic Park.
While hiking on the island (there’s a ranger station and a couple of trails) it’s easy to imagine rogue dinosaurs and Long John Silver lurking in the cover of the large-leafed guaruma trees, giant ferns and vines which thrive in the rain forest climate.
Meet Cocos Island National Park ranger Geiner Golfin. He only looks like a young Fidel Castro.
The rocky coast line of Cocos Island in Costa Rica.
Cocos Island in evening light after another satisfyingly sharky day of diving.
They don’t call Cocos “Shark Island” for nothing
Cocos is sometimes called Shark Island because of the dense concentrations of tiger sharks, silky sharks, scalloped hammerhead sharks, enormous manta rays, reef sharks, Galapagos sharks and even whale sharks in the water here. On a recent trip to Cocos divers on the Argo also saw killer whales–a real rarity.
Those lucky enough to dive around Cocos (that would be us) are virtually guaranteed up close encounters with most of these exciting sea creatures. But you’ve got to earn it.
It takes about 35 hours to reach Cocos Island and the trip is through open ocean which can get rough. We went through one storm but, in general, our passage to Cocos was relatively calm. Karen did try a new seasickness pill called Bonine which lasts for 24 hours and didn’t seem to cause drowsiness like Dramamine does.
The captain of the M/V Argo live aboard dive boat was good at the helm and even better on the dance floor.
Instead of puking, we spent the crossing getting to know the awesome staff and dive masters, utterly charming captain, fabulous cooks and the other divers on board. That’s where things can get tricky. If your live aboard shipmates are jerks you’re stuck with them underwater and topside.
Thankfully, the divers on the trip with us were beyond awesome and included Manuel Lazcano, an acclaimed underwater photographer and videographer and dive instructor who was on his 35th trip to Cocos along with a bunch of his super-cool friends from Mexico City. There was also a Swiss diver named Guido (true story), the coolest (in every sense) Texan ever and a Costa Rican father and son physician team.
Best dive buddies ever: the crew and dive guests on our Undersea Hunter trip to Cocos Island in Costa Rica.
But we weren’t there for the cushy live aboard or the terrific company. Bring on the sharks!
Cocos Island is not for newbies
There is no doubt that Cocos Island is only for experienced divers. The water can be very cold and most dives are around 100 feet (30 meters) deep, sometimes more. Plus, you’ve got to be comfortable being surrounded by sharks.
There’s also a lot of current at Cocos Island dives sites–that’s part of what attracts the sharks. Both of us have done nearly 200 dives and we’ve never, ever worn gloves while diving. Normally dive gloves are banned to discourage touching anything while you’re down there. However, it soon became clear why gloves are a necessary accessory for Cocos Island diving.
Us ready to get wet and see some sharks during our dive trip to Cocos Island in Costa Rica.
Where are all the hammerheads?
Somehow we managed to see exactly zero hammerheads during our first day of diving which, in the dive-centric environment of a live aboard, includes up to five dives a day. We’re not naive. We know that it’s impossible to guarantee wild animal sightings but other divers saw hammerheads at other dive sites (we whined) and we went to bed feeling a little big gyped.
That didn’t last long. Our first dive on our second day at Cocos was at a site called Dirty Rock which is marked by a huge rock that juts out of the ocean. This rock is used by frigate birds and boobies as a resting spot and their poop has made the rock dirty, hence the name.
Eric and I clinging to rocks against strong current in order to maintain our position near a cleaning station regularly visited by sharks.
As the skiff which took us from the Argo to our dive sites stopped at Dirty Rock we all back-rolled over the side and dropped as quickly as possible to about 100 feet (30 meters) under the surface of the water, re-grouping at a known cleaning station. Sharks regularly cruise through these spots where cleaner fish congregate, ready to gently remove parasites from the predators’ skin.
Oh, that’s what the glove are for…
Another thing sharks like is current and lots of it. We all scrambled to find a chunk of rock to hold on to so that we could maintain our positions and not get swept away by the wicked current. We can tell you that we were very glad we had gloves on to prevent the sharp rock and coral from cutting our hands to shreds as we held on tight. We were also glad that everyone who dives with Undersea Hunter is given a small emergency pack which contains a GPS device which would allow the Argo’s captain to quickly and accurately find you if you did get swept away.
Then it happened. First one then dozens of hammerhead emerged out of the deep blue. They were above us, below us and right in front of us slowly cruising in lazy laps around the submerged base of Dirty Rock (bits of which we were all still clinging to).
Hello hammerhead! Photo courtesy of the Undersea Hunter Group.
The hammerheads weren’t exactly scared of us but they weren’t happy to see us either. Despite our efforts to duck behind the rocks we were clinging to and peer discretely at the hammerheads, they would spot us (or our bubbles) sooner or later and dart off as if we’d just poked them in the nose. A few bolder hammerheads waited until the very, very last minute to dart away, as if they were as curious about us as we were about them.
That’s Eric in the lower left corner and that’s a hammerhead veering off to the right just a few feet from him. Photo courtesy of Rodrigo Roesch de Bedout.
Though we would have been content to stay put watching the hammerhead show forever, after about an hour it was time to return to the zodiac and prepare for the second dive of the day. To say we were thrilled by our very first encounter with hammerheads would be a criminal understatement. And there were more thrills to come.
Cocos Island is not all about the hammerheads
Still buzzing from the hammerheads at Dirty Rock, we started our second dive of the day at a site called Punta Maria where we saw more hammerheads and an enormous, lumbering Galapagos shark, another first for us.
The third dive of the day, at a site called Pajara, was filled with moray eels (one of them more than six feet, or two meters, long), cowfish, pipefish and enormous lobsters. We capped the day off with a shallow night dive where we watched reef sharks feeding just a few feet from us.
A flock of spotted eagle rays glides by overhead giving us a good look at their funny faces. Photo courtesy of the Undersea Hunter Group.
Just another day at Cocos Island
Our days continued like this for a week with unseasonably warm water and extremely reliable shark encounters including dozens more hammerheads, the largest group occurring at a dive site called Alcyone where we also saw the rare and very violent spectacle of mating white tip sharks. Suffice to say, you’re glad you’re not a female white tip shark.
We saw more Galapagos sharks and even a few tiger sharks which got our adrenaline pumping more than any of the others given their size, great-white-like profile and reputation for aggression.
A massive tiger shark dwarfs the diver below it. Photo courtesy of the Undersea Hunter Group.
For the last dive of our trip our group returned to the Dirty Rock dive site where it all began. Again, we descended to the cleaning station at about 100 feet (30 meter) and, again, the hammerheads came out to play. Soon, more than 25 hammerheads were venturing closer and closer until they were near enough to make eye contact. After a week in the water with them they seemed to be getting a bit more comfortable with us.
All told, we spent more than 20 hours underwater during our Cocos Island trip and saw hundreds of sharks all at close range. Though the manta rays and whale sharks eluded us, they were seen by other divers on the Argo and it’s good to save something for next time. We now totally understand why Manuel has been back to dive Cocos Island 35 times and we’re already dreaming of our return.
Environmental show down
One of the reasons so many sharks are drawn to Cocos Island is because of unique mini mountains on the sea floor called the Las Gemelas seamounts. When deep currents hit these seamounts nutrient-rich water is pushed toward the surface attracting schools of fish and the predators who love them. Fishermen favor the area for the very same reason and continue to ply the waters illegally.
Karen crossing a bridge on Cocos Island which rangers constructed entirely out of equipment confiscated from fishermen working illegally in the protected waters around Cocos Island.
Wait, there’s more!
As if being surrounded by sharks wasn’t exciting enough we also joined the submariners club while we were at Cocos Island after taking a trip down to 300 feet (91 meters) below the surface of the ocean in a custom made, multi-million dollar submersible called the DeepSee. We’ll take you along for the ride in our next post.
Sea birds and sunsets cap off long days of diving around Cocos Island in Costa Rica.
Cocos Island travel tip
You may be wondering why there is no underwater video in this post. Of course we wanted video so we took our GoPro HD Hero camera with us on our dives and filmed away. It wasn’t until we screened the footage that we realized that the out-of-the box waterproof housing that comes with your GoPro HD Hero or GoPro HD Hero2 creates distorted, out of focus footage underwater. If you have one of those models and want to capture video underwater you must use the GoPro Dive Housing. The housing that comes with the new GoPro HD Hero3 camera works as a dive housing.
The blurry footage below will show you what we’re talking about.
We didn’t spend all of our time underwater. The video below was taken during some hikes and swims on Cocos Island itself.