Up, Up and Away: Behind the Scenes of a Space Shuttle Launch


It’s over.

If the weather holds, the space shuttle Atlantis (which made its first trip into space in 1989) will launch into orbit tomorrow (Friday July 8, 2011) from the Kennedy Space Center in Florida, marking the final space shuttle mission–and the end of the Space Shuttle Program.

No replacement space program has been fully developed yet, so Atlantis is carrying a year’s worth of parts and supplies up to the space station which, from here on out, will be served by the Russian space program until NASA develops a new way to reach the scientists working there.

The Kennedy Space Center in Florida, where the past, present and (hopefully) future of the NASA space program is on display for visitors.


The Space Shuttle Program is officially called the Space Transportation System and it’s always referred to as STS (NASA–which stand for National Aeronautics and Space Administration–loves acronyms). STS was started in 1981 and the program has had five different shuttles which have been successfully thrust into space 133 times (tragically, Columbia was lost during launch in 2003 and Challenger was lost during re-entry in 1986).

Because launch dates/times so often shift due to each mission’s small launch window and Florida’s variable weather they’re difficult to predict with accuracy. That’s why just one Space Shuttle launch has ever been observed in person by a President (President Bill Clinton watch Discovery go up in 1988).

The de-commissioned space shuttle Explorer on display at the Kennedy Space Center.


In 2008 we attended two Space Shuttle launches and got a unique behind-the-scenes look at the preparation. In February of that year we saw the Atlantis shuttle go up during a daytime launch. We were so amazed by the combination of science and spectacle that we returned to Florida’s Space Coast in March to watch the space shuttle Endeavor go up during a dramatic night launch. The ground shakes. People cheer. It’s one of those unique American events.

Here’s a look at the launches we witnessed and a nod to NASA as they prepare to send their shuttle up for the last time.


Launch of space shuttle Atlantis STS #122, March 2008


Space shuttles have carried more than 850 people into space. Here, space shuttle Atlantis adds a few more astronaut names to the list during a launch in March 2008 that we attended.

Shuttle Atlantis STS-122 launch #2

Since 1981, NASA's space shuttles have traveled more than 500 billion miles (equal to more than one round trip between the Earth and Jupiter). Here, Atlantis adds a few more miles to the tally during its launch in March 2008 which we attended.

Since 2009 astronauts have been tweeting from space during their shuttle missions. This 2008 launch of Atlantis, which we witnessed, was tweet-free.

The space shuttle Atlantis making easy work of a cloud during a launch we witnessed in March 2008.

Space Shuttle Atlantis STS-122 launch #5

And there she goes...space shuttle Atlantis rockets out of view during a launch we witnessed in March 2008.

Since 1981 the space shuttles have spent more than 1,320 days in space. Here, a clock tracks the amount of time space shuttle Atlantis had spent in orbit following its March 2008 launch which we witnessed.

The epic launch-Pad-39-A. Space shuttle Atlantis lifted off from here 20 hours before this picture was taken.

The vehicle assembly building (background) is the fourth largest structure in the world by volume. Moving in the foreground is the twin crawler (the largest truck in the world) practicing the slow-motion run it made three days later with space shuttle Endeavour on board. The crawler moves over a meticulously engineered road capable of holding the combined weight of the crawler and a space shuttle.


Night launch of space shuttle Endeavour STS #123, February 2008

Since 1981 space shuttles have completed almost 21,000 orbits of the earth. Here, fans (including us) gather at Kennedy Space Center to watch the night time launch of space shuttle Endeavour.

Space Shuttle Endeavour STS-123 night launch #1

Space shuttles travel at 17,500 mph. Here, spaces shuttle Endeavour is ready for take off during a night launch we witnessed from the Kennedy Space Center in February 2008.

Space shuttle astronauts, including the ones on the Endeavour (above) which we watched during a night launch, travel so fast around the earth that they see sunrise every 45 minutes.

In 2010 a space shuttle mission cost US$775 million to plan and execute. Here, Endeavour successfully launches from the Kennedy Space Center.

Skies were cloudy the night we watched the space shuttle Endeavour launch from Kennedy Space Center so it was only visible for a few (very dramatic) moments before it disappeared behind clouds.


Ready to get really geeky about the final space shuttle mission? Download the Go Atlantis app for iPads and iPhones.



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Read it and Leap! Free Travel Inspiration from Lonely Planet Bloggers (including us)

TODAY is the launch of a brand new FREE e-book called “Around the World with 40 Lonely Planet Bloggers” and we’re in it!


As many of you know, we’ve been part of the elite Lonely Planet Featured Blogger program since 2010. Recently, 40 of the Featured Bloggers (including us) got together to contribute to this FREE e-book full of travel inspiration. Whether you’re into epic road trips like ours or city travel or traveling with a family or budget backpacking or solo travel practically anywhere in the world there are seasoned, funny, smart, real experts in this book who will have you calling in those vacation days.

We’re talking 40 Lonely Planet bloggers, 70 countries, 88 pages of inspiration and expertise. Just sign up for our (very) occasional newsletter using the form below and a copy of the e-book is yours for free.

NOTE: We will not sell your email address or send any spam, just an occasional update from our Trans-Americas Journey.



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Flower Wars: Is Your V-Day Bouquet Destroying the Jungles of Belize?

The dense and protected jungles of Belize are many shades of green. To the untrained eye the verdant tones run together in a blur of lushness—one plant virtually indistinguishable from its neighbor. But the growing number of Guatemalan slipping into the under-patrolled border regions of Belize see things differently.

They’re interested in just two specific shades of green—the deep jade of the fronds produced by the fishtail xaté palm and the green, green color of cash—and they’re leaving cleared land, poached animals, frightened scientists, threatened tourists, pot farms and really, really pissed off environmentalists in their wake.

Why should you care?

Because one of the main buyers of xaté are big floral companies like the one you’re probably buying a Valentine’s Day bouquet from right about now (it’s estimated that 40% of flowers sold all year are sold for Valentine’s Day).

So…

What is xaté, who buys it and why?

There are three species of Xatémora/Chamaedorea plants found in Central America. The one at the center of this story is the fishtail xaté (pronounced “sha-tay”), which produces a pretty frond that is prized in flower arrangements because it makes great cheap filler (like a green version of baby’s breath) which last up to 45 days after being cut.

The main buyers of xaté are international floral companies (mainly in the US and Holland) and the Catholic  Church which buys up the stuff for Palm Sunday services.


Where is xaté found and who supplies it?

There used to be plenty of wild xaté in the jungles of Guatemala (especially in the Peten region) but it’s been cut to near extinction in that country so now the xaté-rich protected forests just over the border in Belize, where palms grow dense and wild, are effectively the sole hunting grounds.

Virtually no one farms xaté.  However, as it gets harder and harder to find in the wild some Belizeans and Guatemalans are talking about establishing xaté “plantations” (something environmentalists have been pushing for) but no substantial progress on this front has been made.

Where is this happening?

Xaté is being heavily harvested from within the Chiquibul National Park, the largest park in Belize at more than 400 square miles (nearly 5% of the landmass of the entire country). Located in western Belize, the park (and the adjacent Chiquibul Forest Reserve) and its extensive and remote border with Guatemala is currently patrolled by just seven (some say six) rangers. Needless to say, you don’t have to be Jason Bourne to sneak across. You hardly have to sneak at all.

Is this a new problem?

No, but it appears to be getting worse. Illegal xaté collection by Guatemalans is believed to have been taking place since the 1970s. In the past decade, Belizean environmentalists say, the scale and scope of what was once a small problem has gotten steadily and dramatically worse. In the 1980s it was believed that xatéros (xaté harvesters) were impacting around 250 acres. Today it is estimated that hundreds of Guatemalan xatéros are in Belize impacting thousands of acres.

According to Flora and Fauna International, more than 400 million stems of xaté were harvested and sent to the US and Europe in 2007.


Xatéros apprehended with illegally harvested xaté near the Bladen Nature Reserve in Belize in March 2010 (photo courtesy of Ya'axche Conservation Trust).


Get the full story about the arrest of the xatéros pictured above from the Ya’axche Conservation Trust


What’s in it for the Guatemalans?

A xatéro makes an average of US$5 a day (a lot by Guatemalan standards) and they are mostly—but not exclusively—male. The people who pack the cut xaté, however, are almost exclusively female. Some say up to 100,000 women (mostly Guatemalan) earn their living as xaté packers or (more rarely) harvesters.

The emerging issue is that these xatéros are not just crossing over the border illegally and stealing a few plants before returning home. Belizean environmental groups, including Friends for Conservation and Development which manages the Chiquibul area, and Programme for Belize warn that xatéros have now cleared hundreds of acres of protected Belizean land and some have put up dwellings and started small farms in those clearings.

Inhabitants of these perma-camps are also believed to be poaching wildlife for food and for sale, logging, trapping endangered scarlet macaws for the pet trade (best estimates say there are only 100 mating pairs of these Technicolor birds left in Belize) and possibly growing marijuana in the park.

Though Chiquibul is ground zero (Friends for Conservation and Development representatives believe that 8,000 acres have been lost in the Chiquibul National Park alone), other protected areas being affected by Guatemalan border crossing xatéros include the Vaca Forest Reserve, Caracol Archaeological Reserve (where looting is also believed to be taking place) and the Columbia River Forest Reserve.

What does  this mean for conservation efforts in Belize?

Apart from the wear and tear on the land caused by Guatemalan squatters, encounters and clashes with the xatéros have begun to scare scientists, researchers and conservationists out of many areas of Belize. In 2004, for example, a group of researchers abandoned their work with the showy and enormous Harpy Eagle in Chiquibul National Park after tensions rose with the xatéros and after one researcher had more than US$10,000 in camera equipment stolen.

Because the areas in questions are so grossly under-patrolled, some environmental groups (like Programme for Belize)—already strapped for funds and resources—are stretching themselves even thinner to try and take up some of the policing slack.

What does this mean for travelers to Belize?

The Chiquibul Park incorporates portions of the Chiquibul Cave System which is the longest known cave system in Central America which, in turn, includes the largest known underground passages and cave chamber in the Western Hemisphere.  Belize would obviously like to encourage more sustainable tourism to the cave areas (tourism is Belize’s number one income generator—trailed distantly by sugar and bananas), but the volatile situation with xatéros in the region is making that difficult and even impossible.

Already-touristed areas are also suffering the effects of the xatéros. After a group of tourists was allegedly robbed at gunpoint by Guatemalan xatéros in the Caracol Archaeological Reserve a few years ago (there are also allegations that a tourist was sexually assaulted) the government now sends soldiers along as escorts with all visitors to the area. We can attest that this is still going on since we had to travel as part of a convoy when we visited Caracol last month.

What can you do?

By all means go for some flowers to make your someone special feel extra-special, but we urge you to build a better bouquet by asking your flower arrangement provider to leave out the plam frond filler.

Oh, and if you’re  an editor you can give us a big old Valentine by commissioning a piece about xaté harvesting. We’ve been researching (and pitching) the idea for almost a year now and we’re currently in Belize and Guatemala where we (and our contacts) are ready to complete final reporting and shooting for you.

Mwah!


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