Photo of the Day: Semana Santa – Antigua, Guatemala

We spent last Easter in Antigua, Guatemala (along with about 200,000 other people) in the middle of one of the largest and most extravagant Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations in The Americas.

From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday the cobble stone streets and historic churches of this colonial gem of a town are taken over by dozens of processions take place during all hours of the day and night featuring enormous wooden floats carried by up to 100 people at a time. Toss in vibrant street carpets hand-crafted out of dyed sawdust and flower petals (which are then destroyed under the passing feet of float bearers), special holiday foods and lots and lots of incense and you’ve got yourself one heck of an Easter celebration.

Eric took hundreds of photos during Semana Santa and you can see some of the best of them, and learn more about Semana Santa customs and events, in the full series of Semana Santa posts which we put up on our blog.

This photo, however, captures the essence of Semana Santa as 80 costumed men delicately maneuver a 5,000 pound float over a meticulously created carpet on its way out of incense-filled San Felipe Church. As Easter approaches, we wanted to share it.

 

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Border Crossing 101: El Florido, Guatemala to Honduras

Crossing international borders is never easy, especially when you’re driving across in your own vehicle as part of an overland road trip. We hope the information, below, helps you get prepared and get across smoothly with or without a vehicle.

Date: June 8, 2011

From: El Florido, Guatemala

To: Honduras

Lay of the land: This border crossing, referred to as El Florido on both sides and used primarily by big rigs and day-trippers visiting the Copan archaeological site, is dusty and quiet. No touts, no hassles, no services, banks or other facilities. The immigration office on the Guatemala side is well-marked and efficient. A brand new immigration and customs building has been put up on the Honduran side. A charming Honduran customs agent named Fabricio handled our truck importation with an absolute minimum of hassle. He barely inspected the vehicle at all but he was a bit of a Chatty Cathy which ate up some time. Before we drove away Fabricio gave us his cell phone number in case we had any questions or problems in his country and he tipped us off about a German man making excellent small batch beer in the town of Copan Ruinas just a few miles away.

Honduras Border Crossing - El Florido

 

Elapsed time: 1.5 hours (mostly spent talking to Fabricio)

Fees: $3 per person for a Honduran visa; $35 for temporary importation of the truck into Honduras

Number of days they gave us: 90 days for us and for our truck. See warning below regarding CA-4 regulations for overland travelers.

Vehicle insurance requirements: We were not required to show proof of Honduran liability insurance and there was no place to buy insurance.

Where to fill up: Fill your tank before you leave Guatemala. Fuel is much more expensive in Honduras. If you’re headed to the El Florido border from Chiquimula, Guatemala the best place to fill up is the Shell station about a mile and a half before you reach the turn for El Florido. There’s no fuel immediately available on either side of this crossing.

Duty free stores: None

Need to know: Police officers in Honduras are serious about seat belts and you are required to carry reflective emergency triangles and a fire extinguisher in your vehicle (as is the rule in most of Latin America). We were pulled over about three miles into Honduras by cops looking for our front plate (we only have a back plate because a front plate won’t fit underneath our winch). The cops were not hassling us at all nor were they looking for a bribe. Once we showed them the temporary importation papers we’d just been given they explained that all vehicles registered in Honduras are required to have front and back plates then sent us on our way.

CA-4 warning: In 2006, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua and Honduras joined together to create the so-called CA-4 (Central American 4) group of countries all honoring and enforcing one CA-4 visa which is good for 90 days in any of the four participating countries. Sounds great, but you cannot exceed 90 days in total in any combination of those four countries without severe penalties. The clock starts ticking on your CA-4 visa the moment you step foot in any of the CA-4 countries.To complicate things further, Honduras recently stopped honoring CA-4 regulations and started issuing its own 90 day visa. Theoretically you can now spend 90 days in the other CA-4 countries then enter Honduras and receive a new 90 day visa for that country. However, unless you are flying out of Honduras or taking the boat to Belize this will lead to serious problems. Since Honduras is completely surrounded by other CA-4 countries the only way out overland requires entering a CA-4 country.  Because the other CA-4 countries still abide by the 90 day limit and starting when you first entered Central America which they still define as including Honduras even though Honduras has opted out of CA-4 regulations. That means if you’ve used up your 90 Honduran visa you’re going to have to fly or boat out of Honduras or pay a large fine and get just a few days to transit overland through any of the surrounding countries and get out of the CA-4 region. Overland travelers need to plan stays in Honduras carefully to ensure that there is enough time left on the visa to allow overland travel through other CA-4 countries before the CA-4 visa expires.  We learned this the hard way after we spent almost three months in Guatemala, entered Honduras and got another 90 day visa and then tried to enter El Salvador which denied us entry because we’d (unwittingly) overstayed our allotted 90 days as defined by the CA-4 regulations.

Border rating: Excellent. The El Florido crossing between Guatemala and Honduras was smoothly run, hassle-free and relatively quiet despite the presence of quite a few big rigs.


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Rear View Mirror: Travel Tips and Observations After Four Months in Guatemala

We spent a total of 140 days traveling in Guatemala during our Trans-Americas Journey road trip. We trekked through the jungle to El Mirador archaeological site, witnessed drunken horse racing in Todos Santos, returned to lovely Lake Atitlan again and again, got robbed while camping at a lake inside a volcano and fell in love (again) with Tikal.

Here are a few parting notes from Guatemala.

The word Guatemala means “land of forests” in one of the local Mayan dialects. Ironic, since deforestation is such a problem in Guatemala. We wonder what a Mayan word for “land of mudslides” is…

The impossibly technicolor quetzal is the national bird of Guatemala. It’s also the name of the country’s currency and a really great reason to start planning a visit to Guatemala right now.

Quetzal at Chelemha Cloud Forest Lodge

This male quetzal emerged from its nest inside a hollow tree trunk and posed for us on a nearby branch in the Chelemhá Cloud Forest Reserve in Guatemala.

The awesome ceiba, sacred to the Mayans, is the national tree of Guatemala. The thing starts its live covered in enormous spikes and can grow more than 200 feet (70 meters) tall.

Guatemala is part of the Mundo Maya (along with southern Mexico, Belize and Honduras) and home to Uaxactun archaeological site just a few miles beyond Tikal. We’ve visited more than 60 Mayan archaeological sites since the Journey began and Uaxactun is our top spot for anyone interested in being part of authentic, less-crowded ceremonies marking the mysterious end of the Mayan long count calendar in 2012.

In the most recent Presidential election the wife of the then-sitting President  of Guatemala divorced him so she could, in her words, “marry the people.” This was widely seen as a blatant attempt to get around constitutional rules against family members of an outgoing President taking over the post. It took months, but Guatemala’s Supreme Court eventually saw it that way too and ruled that she had to abandon her campaign for the Presidency.

Postage to mail a postcard from Guatemala to the United States is a whopping 6.5Q (about US$0.84).

In October of 2011 Guatemala City introduced a few women-only buses.

Lake Atitlan and  San Pedro Volcano sunset, Guatemala

San Pedro volcano across Lake Atitlán.

We appreciate the no-nonsense language of our Lonely Planet guidebook to Guatemala in which the author wisely reminds readers that his guide (or any guide) “is not God talking.”

There’s a division of the Guatemalan Tourism Department called PROATUR and their sole job is to assist tourists with questions, problems and conflicts. We can tell you from first hand experience that this unique program gets results.

Antigua, Guatemala was settled by the Spanish as the capital of all of Central America. Today, the UNESCO World Heritage Site city just outside Guatemala City is famous for its Colonial charm and for its Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions and pomp. It’s the largest Easter celebration in The Americas and a must see for the religious or the just plain curious.

Colonial streets of Antigua with Agua Volcano

Colonial architecture lines a cobblestone street in Antigua with the Agua Volcano--one of three that ring the city-- in the distance.

Guys reflexively put their thumbs inside the mouths of their beer bottles and pop them before drinking. As if your thumb is cleaner than the bottle???

It’s far from a foodie destination but for some reason you can get great pesto sauce in Guatemala. Go figure. Also, they do a mean fried chicken and we had some of the best ceviche we’ve ever had in the midst of Guatemala City.

Guatemalans use the ancient “libra” measurement which weighs the same as a pound and is actually the Latin word from which we get the “lb” abbreviation.

Topes are called tumulos in Guatemala and these speed bumps in the road are just as ubiquitous and annoying as they are in Mexico and the rest of Central America.

We thought the Mexicans were crazy for fireworks and noise makers but Guatemalan festivals out-boom anything we ever saw (or heard) in Mexico. Don’t believe us? Check out our video from the Festival of Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango.

dancers - Chichicastenango festival

Costumed dancers representing Spanish conquistadors strut their stuff during the annual Festival of Santo Tomás in Chichicastenango, Guatemala.

Guatemalans have butchered Mexican food–perhaps even more so than we have in the United States. US fast food chains, on the other hand, are amply represented in the cities.

Spanish is the national language in Guatemala, but words that are common in Mexico are not used here and vice versa. As if our language skills weren’t struggling already…

Guatemala is so small and sparsely populated that there’s only one area code for the whole country. And everyone seems to have a cell phone.

The grounds of the Mayan sites in Guatemala are extremely well-kept. We watched busy, busy caretakers literally sweep the paths at Yaxha (where a season of Survivor was filmed, by the way) and even remote and rarely visited sites like Dos Pilas (which averages about 30 visitors per month) were totally tidy and free of jungle debris.

Tikal main plaza - Temple 1

Temple 1 in the Gran Plaza at Tikal archaeological site in Guatemala.

In Guatemala City, motorcyclists are required wear helmets and reflective vests with their license plate number on them. It’s also illegal to carry a passenger on a motorcycle in an attempt to thwart a favored mode of transportation for thieves and assassins targeting people stuck in traffic.

Gas prices vary by up to 40 cents per gallon, so shop around.


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