6
May

Wet and Wild on the Caribbean Coast – Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Posted on May 6th, 2013 :: Posted in bird watching, Central America, Costa Rica, Guided Tours, Jungle, National Park, snakes

Unless you have the travel budget for a flight, traveling to Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica isn’t easy. It involves hours of driving, sometimes through massive banana plantations, followed by a 1.5 hour boat ride into the heart of this wet and wild park on the Caribbean Coast. It’s not a romantic journey, just plain long and apparently everybody is in a rush to get there. We were disturbed when our boat driver didn’t slow down at all as we sped past a sign that read “Manatee habitat. Slow down”.

Despite its remote location, Tortuguero is one of the most-visited national parks in Costa Rica. When you finally reach the park itself you will probably be amazed at just how little dry land there is. We were.

Tortuguero is made up of flooded grasslands now crisscrossed by a network of man-made canals put in before the area was protected. The rainforest here is also very humid and the area gets around 250 inches (6,400 millimeters) of rain every year. No wonder the park is almost entirely underwater and most of our explorations involved getting in a boat and cruising the canals and shoreline in search of wildlife.

Caiman Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A tender Caiman family moment in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Park exploration by boat

In Tortuguero “trails” have been replaced by “canals” which are explored in small, comfortable, open boats with four stroke engines and a mandatory guide. Even the ranger station, where the standard Costa Rican national park entrance fee of US$10 per person must be paid, is reachable by boat.

Mantled Howler Monkey Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A mantled howler monkey easing down a tree to check us out in a boat below during a tour of the canals in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Capuchin Monkey Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A capuchin monkey putting on his best “thinker” face in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Spider Monkeys Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

These spider monkeys were the third monkey species we spotted in Costa Rica’s Tortuguero National Park.

Morning, evening and night excursions on those canals got us close to capuchin monkeys (some of which peed on us), howler monkeys, aracaris, iguanas, toucans, spectacled caimans, all manner of egret and heron, fresh water turtles, and more. Sadly, the park’s boas and green macaws eluded us.

Boat billed Heron Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A boat-billed heron in Tortuguero National Park. Check out those chest feathers.

Collared Aracari Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A pair of collared aracaris in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Tiger Heron Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A tiger heron hunting along the shoreline in Tortuguero National Park.

Egret Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

An egret taking a break in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Basilisk Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Baselisk lizards are also called Jesus Christ lizards because they have huge back feet which allow them to run short distances over water.

Mangroves Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Mangroves and root buttresses along canal shorelines in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Iguana Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

The older they get the more colorful iguanas become as this bad boy demonstrates in Tortuguero National Park.

Osprey Eagle Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

An osprey eagle drying its wings on a branch above the canals that wind through Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

Rubber boots required (but not for the mud)

There are a couple of trails in Tortuguero National Park but you need rubber boots to hike them, even in the dry season. That’s because the boots are meant to protect you from snakes, not mud.

Gorgeous eyelash vipers thrive here and we headed out in search of them after renting rubber boots for US$1 per pair from an enterprising family near the ranger station which has been cleverly fashioned out of a beached patrol boat.

Eyelash vipers really do have what look like eyelashes (they’re really modified scales), which gives them a bit of pinup girl glamor. The relatively small snakes, members of the pit viper family, also come in a rainbow of colors including bright yellow, red and green plus plain old brown. We were told that the same female eyelash viper can give birth to baby eyelash vipers in all of the different colors within the same group of hatchlings. Neat trick.

Eyelash Viper Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

The eyelash viper has specialized scales that look like lashes above each eye. It also comes in a rainbow of different colors, all of which can present within the same group of newborns.

As we entered the 1.2 mile (2 kilometer) Jaguar Trail a ranger assured/warned us that eyelash vipers were “everywhere” and we started walking slowly with high hopes of spotting eyelash vipers in the full array of colors. Despite our best efforts we only saw one brown viper coiled up in the crook of a fallen log.

Don’t let their good looks and fascinating habits fool you. Eyelash vipers are venomous and they are ambush hunters. Luckily, they’re also nocturnal and pretty docile and shy. Eric spent at least 30 minutes with his camera shoved to within six inches of the eyelash viper we spotted to get these shots for you and it never even batted an eye. Couldn’t resist.

Tortuguero town

Recycling Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A clever glass recycling bin in the tiny town of Tortuguero.

The small, colorfully-painted, Caribbean style town of Tortuguero had more shops, eateries, dudes selling coconuts, guides and boats for hire and small hotels than we’d expected. Though the most common way to visit Tortuguero is as part of a group, if you want to avoid the chain-smoking Germans and the loud-talking Estonian couples dressed in Baltic high fashion then rest assured that this town has all you need to find food, lodging (Casa Marbella looked sweet) and guides on your own.

There’s even an ambitious and inventive restaurant called Wild Ginger. Owners (and chef and waiter) Jennifer and Jorge opened the place in Tortuguero town in 2012 and they’ve created a stylish place to get quality food (burgers, Asian chicken salad, hummus, etc) that shouldn’t be missed for a meal or for happy hour (4-6 pm).

We stayed about a 10 minute walk outside Tortuguero town at Mawamba Lodge which features accommodations in wooden buildings with more than the basic comforts including good beds and hot water showers. Some rooms even have ocean or canal views. There’s also a refreshing pool, a large butterfly enclosure and a frog enclosure where we saw red-eyed tree frogs in all stages of development from tadpole to adult.

Mawamba also had a weird cruise ship/package tour feel and it, honestly, wasn’t really our style. However, it’s a good option if you don’t want to have to fend for yourself and don’t mind being on the same feeding and sight-seeing schedule as everybody else in your group.

Turtle Beach Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

A beach in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica where turtles come to nest between March and October every year.

Trail at Mawamba Lodge Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Karen exploring a small boardwalk trail on part of the property owned by Mawamba Lodge in Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica.

TRAVEL TIP

Turtles, the namesake of Tortuguero National Park (tortuga means turtle in Spanish), nest here between March and October. Plan your visit then if you want to see female green turtles, leatherback turtles, hawksbill turtles and even some loggerhead turtles coming ashore to dig pits in the sand and lay their eggs. We were told by locals that September is a great month to visit since the turtles are out in force, the weather is great and the tourists haven’t peaked yet.

Turtle protection Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica

Good advice for anyone interested in seeing the turtle nesting in Costa Rica’s Tortuguero National Park.

A Much Cooler Cloud Forest – San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica

Posted on April 29th, 2013 :: Posted in Animals, bird watching, birds, Boutique Hotel, Central America, Costa Rica, Mountains

You may have never heard of San Gerardo de Dota but if you’re traveling to Costa Rica and you have your heart set on exploring some of the country’s famous cloud forests this is a place you need to know about. You will be tempted to head to Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve which covers 26,000 acres (10,500 hectares) and attracts nearly 100,000 visitors a year. When we visited Monteverde we were inspired to call it Disneyland, Only Damper, so take our advice and head to San Gerardo de Dota for a much cooler cloud forest fix without the crowds.

Forget Monteverde

The town of San Gerardo de Dota, about 50 curvy, mountainous miles (80 kilometers) from San Jose, clings to the steep hillsides of the Talamanca Mountains. The Savegre River slices through the valley and in 2005 a 12,000 acre (5,000 hectare) hunk of cloud forest near San Gerardo de Dota was set aside as Los Quetzales National Park.

Valley at San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica

Cloud forest as far as the eye can see and not a tour bus in sight near San Gerardo de Dota in Costa Rica.

There are many different types of forests and ecosystems at various elevations in the region and that hosts incredible biodiversity–we’re talking hundreds of thousands of different species. Most of them are insects, but some of them aren’t, including the resplendent quetzal–a bird you most definitely want to see and namesake of the area’s national park.

Resplendent Quetzal cloud forest of San Gerardo de Dota Costa Rica

This is a resplendent quetzal, just one of the thousands of species that need cloud forest environments to survive.

Quetezal watching from a cloud forest ecolodge

By six am we’d finished breakfast and were piling into the extremely cool restored 1973 Land Cruiser owned and operated by Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge. Our guide, Carlos, navigated the steep dirt road down into the valley and about 10 minutes later we were parked near a trail head and off in search of quetzals.

Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge, San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica Land Cruiser

Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge operates this restored 1973 Land Cruiser in San Gerardo de Dota and it’s way cooler than any tour bus ever could be.

After walking about a hundred yards we reached a dead tree trunk. Carlos knew that a hole in the trunk had become home to a quetzal family so we staked it out the nest with tripods, cameras and spotting scopes. Then we waited. And waited.

An hour later the female quetzal appeared. Female quetzals are certainly colorful with their yellow beaks and green, red and blue plumage. However, they don’t hold a candle to the male of the species which sports a pair of three-foot-long iridescent tail feathers during the breeding and nesting season (April to June).

Resplendent Quetzal Costa Rica bird watching

The resplendent quetzal has feathers that change color in changing light, giving the bird a blue appearance like this or a vibrant green appearance like the bird in the picture near the top of this post.

Daddy’s home

Finally, the male quetzal turned up and the pair took turns darting into and out of the tiny hole in the tree trunk bearing agaucatillo fruits in their beaks. These mini avacados are one of the few things quetzals eat and the young are reared on it. Daddy’s tail feathers were way too long to fit inside the small nest hole and stuck out comically as he came and went.

Resplendent Quetzal bringing an aguacatillo to nest Costa Rica

A male resplendent quetzal squeezes into its nest with an aguacatillo fruit in its tiny yellow beak delivering room service for his chicks.

Male Quetzal bird nest in Costa Rica Cloud Forest

A male quetzal prepares to leave its nest after bringing a snack to its chicks.

Male Quetzal tail feathers in cloud forest

The tail feathers of a male quetzal are too long to fit inside its small nest hole and often stick out comically.

Greedy for more, we hiked/ran through the forest in hot pursuit of the male when it lit out from the nest. Our efforts were rewarded with some wonderful glimpses of the bird perched in the sun. This was the fourth time we’ve seen quetzals in the wild and we can assure you that it’s a thrill every time. There really is no other bird like it.

Resplendent-Quetzal-San-Gerardo-de-Dota-Costa-Rica

We bush-wacked through the cloud forest to follow this male quetzal and were rewarded with this perfect perch.

Resplendent Quetzal in flight Costa Rica

A male resplendent quetzal in flight, tail feathers streaming behind it.

Tapirs too?

After our successful morning with Mr. and Mrs. Quetzal we returned to Dantica to explore the three miles of steep trails on the lodge’s 50 acres (20 hectares) of protected land. The reserve and lodge were created by Joost Wilms, a biologist from Holland, and his wife Maria Luisa Castro Fernández, a textile designer from Colombia.

Joost spent years working in the Amazon studying tapirs which are called dantas in Spanish. Joost’s nickname in the Amazon was Dantica or “the little tapir” hence the name of the lodge.

Room at Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge Costa Rica

Massive windows in every room at Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge help bring nature in.

Sadly, our time in San Gerardo de Dota was tapir-free so our quest to see these bizarre and shy creatures in the wild continues. Still, we happily settled for the comforts of their namesake ecolodge which includes 10 stand-alone bungalows with floor to ceiling windows overlooking private and protected cloud forest, ethynol-fueled heaters (though it still gets cold in the rooms since Dantica is located at 8,000 feet or 2,500 meters) and jetted tubs plus a fantastic restaurant. For more, read our full review of Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge & Gallery for iTraveliShop.com.

Costa Rica’s cloud forests are home to more than just resplendent quetzals, including acorn woodpeckers.

Flame Colored Tanager San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica

Flame colored tanagers also thrive in the cloud forest around San Gerardo de Dota in Costa Rica.

Budget travel tip

If Dantica is too spendy for your travel budget we can highly recommend the nearby, basic wood cabins offered by Miriam who also runs the best economical restaurant in San Gerardo de Dota. Rates are US$30 for double occupancy in one of a handful of different cabins with views, private bathrooms, electricity and porches. Even better? Guests get US$1 per person off the deliciously home made and reasonably priced meals Miriam serves at her small eatery up the main road toward the highway. Check in there regarding the cabins as well.

Another Way to Get Wet – Rio Pacuare, Costa Rica

Posted on April 24th, 2013 :: Posted in Adventure, Central America, Costa Rica, eco hotel, Mountains, Rafting, River, Tips, video

Sure you could go to the beach to get wet when you travel to Costa Rica. Us? We headed for the Rio Pacuare for some Costa Rican white water rafting.

White Water rafting Rio Paquare River rapids

Navigating the famous rapids of Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare (that’s Eric with the GoPro strapped to his helmet).

The right rafting company

There are plenty of companies that will take you rafting in Costa Rica but we liked the sustainable tourism approach of an operation called Rios Tropicales.

The company has planted more than 50,000 indigenous trees on the 2,000 acres it owns along the river in a massive reforestation effort. They formed a foundation to create and implement environmental education programs in local schools and they helped build two rural health clinics. Staff for their river lodge was also hired from local villages.

But what about the rafting? It all starts with your guides. Rios Tropicales has a river guide training program that’s based on international standards and practices but the guides themselves are 100% local. Back in 1985 they were the first rafting company to hire guides from the nearby town of Turrialba then they started hiring and training locals from the small community of El Tigre including indigenous Cabecar Indians.

Over the years some of Rios Troipicales’ guides have gone on to open their own rafting businesses in other parts of Costa Rica and the company continues to help promote them. They’re called “ecopreneurs” and they include one former Rios Tropicales guide who is now offering awesome-sounding chute rafting down a unique stretch of river near Manuel Antonio National Park.

Rios Tropicales Rio Paquare white water rafting trip

The start of our Rio Pacuare rafting adventure with Rios Tropicales.

The right river

You have a number of raftable rivers to choose from in Costa Rica but one that’s near the top of everyone’s list is the Rio Pacuare. It’s a beautiful river and it’s got kick too. The Rafting World Championships were held on the Rio Pacuare in October 2011.

Rio Paquare River in Costa Rica waterfall

Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare provided an adrenaline rush of rapids and just enough calm sections to appreciate the waterfalls and lush jungle all around us.

Rios Tropicales offers single day rafting trips on the Rio Pacuare all the way through to four days on the river. We opted for the two day Rio Pacuare rafting trip with an overnight in the Rios Tropicales ecolodge on the banks of the river.

A deceivingly-calm section of the Rio Pacuare in Costa Rica.

Day 1 on the Rio Pacuare

We got wet a bit sooner than planned during our Rio Pacuare rafting adventure. During the second set of rapids our guide, Ricardo, steered us left when we should have gone right (or maybe it was the other way around) and we ended up rocketing down a hairy little line through whitewater with a huge boulder and a five foot drop over a mini-waterfall directly in our path. The white water commandeered our raft and we high-sided on the boulder. It’s a miracle we didn’t flip.

Good and wet as we came THIS close to flipping at the start of Day 1 of rafting on the Rio Pacuare in Costa Rica.

The word Pacuare means “little macaw” in the local native language. We didn’t see any macaws but we did enjoy the jungle as we got in some sight seeing during the tranquil floats between exciting rapids on our seven mile (11 kilometer) trip to the Rios Tropicales ecolodge.

dog chihuahua white water rafting Rio Paquare River Costa Rica

Yes, that’s a chihuahua in a life vest hitching a ride on the gear boat during our white water rafting adventure on Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare.

These rapids marked the start of Day 2 of white water rafting on the Rio Pacuare in Costa Rica.

Lounging at the greenest lodge on the river

The wooden buildings of the Rios Tropicales ecolodge, the first one ever built on the river, spill out along a stretch of riverbank and include a shared dorm, clean, basic private rooms with bathrooms and some plusher private rooms with more space and even better views.

The entire staff is from local villages and the whole place is powered with hydro-generated electricity which makes perfect sense as you watch the river rush by and listen to umpteen waterfalls tumble down the hillsides, one of them crashing past our room.

If a day of rafting didn’t release enough adrenaline for you you can fill the afternoon with zip lining, horseback riding, hiking and swimming in waterfall-fed natural pools.

Zip Line Rios Tropicales Rio Paquare River

Eric kept the adrenaline pumping with some post-rafting zip lining at the Rios Tropicales ecolodge on the Rio Pacuare in Costa Rica.

Even though we were all off the river our guides were definitely not off duty. They doubled as cooks, waiters and bar tenders too and they were good at it, serving up Cacique-spiked punch during happy hour and whipping up a big, fresh, filling dinner made with local ingredients whenever possible.

Jumping off waterfalls Rio Paquare River

Umpteen waterfalls tumble down the steep banks along the Rio Pacuare offering their own adventures.

Day 2 on the Rio Pacuare

Our second day on the Rio Pacuare was even more exciting than the first. Our 11 mile (17 kilometer) journey took us through class III and IV rapids with very few dead stretches in between. In some stretches the canyon was so narrow it felt like the rafts might not fit through.

Rios Tropicales White Water rafting Rio Paquare River

Our raft powering through one of the class III and IV rapids that spiced up Day 2 on the Rio Pacuare.

White Water rafting Rio Rio Paquare River white water rafting

Heading into another rapid on the Rio Pacuare.

What slower water we encounterd was livened up by Ricardo who had us surfing standing waves in the raft, out of the raft and riding the current down stream and generally goofing off. Then it was back to doing our best to paddle in unison in order to get through the next rapids. Turns out, white water rafting in Costa Rica is a pretty good way to learn the Spanish words for “left,” “right,” “forward,” and “back.”

Catching our breath during a calm section of the Rio Pacuare in Costa Rica.

Bobbing and floating with the current and cooling off in Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare.

Watch us flip, float and flail through the rapids, sail through the zip line and surf standing waves in our video, below, shot during our white water rafting adventure on Costa Rica’s Rio Pacuare. It’s long, but we didn’t want to leave any of the adrenaline out!