Archaeological Index: Mayan (and other) Sites We’ve Visited

Since our Trans-Americas Journey started in 2006 we’ve visited nearly 100 archaeological sites in the US, Canada, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras.  These sites have given us a window into cultures ranging from the Anasazi to the Zapotec but most of our Indiana Jones time has been spent with the Maya–we’ve visited 54 Mayan sites so far with more to come.

With so many posts about so many sites we wanted to index them in one easy place–and here it is. We’ve categorized sites by culture and by country and alphabetized each site within its grouping for quick reference. The links take you directly to our blog post concerning that site.

Bookmark it for trip planning and research–especially with the puzzling end of the Mayan calendar on December 21, 2012.

 

Mayan Archaeological Sites in Mexico

Chichén Itzá

Ek' Balam - The Twin Pyramids & the Oval Palace

Ek' Balam

Palenque

Becan Campeche he state

Bonampak Chiapas state

Calakmul Campeche state

Chiapa de Corzo Chiapas

Chicanna Campeche state

Chichen Itza Yucatan state

Chinkultic Chiapas state

Coba Quintana Roo state

Comalcalco Tabasco state

Dzibilchaltun Yucatan state

Dzibilnocac Campeche state

Edzna Campeche state

Ek’ Balam Quintana Roo state

Hochob Campeche state

Hormiguero Campeche state

Izamal Yucatan state

Izapa Chiapas state

Kabah Yucatan state

Labna Yucatan state

Loltun Cave Yucatan state

Mayapan Yucatan state

Palenque Chiapas state

Sayil Yucatan state

El Tabasqueño Campeche state

Tenam Puente Chiapas state

Toniná Chiapas state

Tulum Quintana Roo state

Uxmal Yucatan state

Xpuhil Campeche state

Yaxchilan Chiapas state

 

 Mayan Archaeological Sites in Belize

Lamanai

Actun Tunichil Muknal aka ATM cave

Altun Ha

Caracol

Chan Chich

Lamanai

Lubaantun

La Milpa

Nim Li Punit

Xunantunich

 

Mayan Archaeological Sites in Guatemala

Aguateca

Dos Pilas

El Ceibal (Seibal)

La Florida

Ixlu

El Mirador part 1, part 2, part 3

Nakbe

Punta de la Chimino

Tikal

El Tintal

Uaxactun

Yaxha

Quiriguá (coming soon)

Mayan Archaeological Sites in Honduras

Copan (coming soon)

El Puente (coming soon)

 

Mayan Archaeological Sites in El Salvador

Tazumal (coming soon)

Joya de Ceren (coming soon)

San Andres (coming soon)

 

Other Mesoamerican Sites in Mexico

Cacaxtla (Olmec-Xicalancas culture) Tlaxcala state

Cholula (Olmec-Xicalancas culture ) Puebla state

Guachimontones (Teuchitlan culture) Jalisco state

La Ventana: Parque-Musueo de La Venta Villahermosa, Tabasco state

Mitla (Zapotec culture) Oaxaca state

Monte Alban (Zapotec culture) Oaxaca state

Paquimé (Mimbres culture) Casas Grandes, Chihuahua state

Quiahuztlan (Toltec culture) Veracruz state

El Tajin (Totonaca culture) Veracruz state

El Tepozteco (Aztec culture) Tepotzlan, Morelos state

Teotihuacan (Aztec culture) Mexico state

Templo Mayor (Aztec culture) Mexico City

Xochicalco Morelos state

Xochitecatl (Olmec-Xicalancas civilization) Tlaxcala state

Yagul (Zapotec culture) Oaxaca state

 

Museo Nacional de Antropología Mexico City

Museo de Antropología Xalapa, Veracruz state

 

 

Archaeological Sites in the US

Aztec Ruins National Monument (Anasazi culture) New Mexico

Canyon de Chelly National Monument (Anasazi culture) Arizona

Chaco Culture National Historic Park (Anasazi culture) New Mexico

El Morro National Monument (Anasazi culture) New Mexico

Fate Bell Shelter – Seminole Canyon State Park

Gila Cliff Dwellings National monument (Mogollon culture) New Mexico

Hovenweep national Monument  (Anasazi culture) Utah/Colorado

Hueco Tanks (Mogollon culture) Texas

Mesa Verde National Park (Anasazi culture) Colorado

Montezuma Castle National monument (Sinagua culture) Arizona

Navajo National Monument (Anasazi culture) Arizona

Painted Rock – Carrizo Plain National Monument, California

Petroglyph National Monument, New Mexico

 

 

Archaeological Sites in Canada

L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (Vikings) Newfoundland

 

 


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How To Have a Mexican Road Trip

We don’t mean to toot our own horn (get it? road trip? horn?) but we’ve pretty much become experts on driving in Mexico. That’s what happens when you spend 18 months driving 24,737 miles thoroughly exploring 29 of the country’s 31 states (Monterey and Tamulipas, we’ll get you on the way back up).

Here are our top need-to-know tips about driving in Mexico that will help pave the way (again, get it?) for your own Mexican Road Trip Adventure. We sure wish we’d known this stuff before we left…


1. Fuel is cheaper in Mexico than it is in the US

During our travels we paid an average of $2.40 per gallon for diesel for our truck when fuel was cheaper and the exchange rate was stronger than it is now. Still, fuel costs remain below the US average. As of June 24, 2011 (calculated at the current exchange rate 11.81 pesos = US$1):

Magna (regular unleaded) was 9.24 pesos/liter  =  US$2.96/gallon;

Premium was 10.34 pesos/liter  =  US$3.31/gallon;

Diesel was 9.60 pesos/liter  =  US$3.08/gallon.  NOTE: there is virtually no ultra low sulfur diesel available in Mexico, but PEMEX has announced future plans to refine ULSD in the future.

Here’s a good place to find current fuel prices in Mexico.


2. There is only one gas station chain in Mexico

It’s called Pemex and it’s owned by the Mexican government which sets fuel prices for the entire country (though fuel can be a touch pricier near the US border and a touch cheaper in the free-trade zones in the southern border areas with Belize and Guatemala). This means you don’t have to waste time (and fuel) driving all over creation comparing prices at the Shell and the Exxon and the BP. What you see is what you get so just pull in and fill up.


3. All gas stations are full service in Mexico

Learn to say “Por favor, lavar el parabrisas” and they’ll clean your windshield too. We generally give the guy (and, occasionally, the girl) a couple of pesos for the effort. Another good gas station phrase to know: “Acceptan tarjetas de crédito?” (Do you accept credit cards?). Even if they say yes, ask them to run a charge through for the amount of gas you want before you pump. We’ve been left paying for a big fill-up in cash after the local Bancomer refused to process our credit card which the attendant said the station accepted.


4. You can use a GPS in Mexico–sort of

Magellan makes a GPS device that includes data for Mexican roads. It’s called the Roadmate 1470 and we used it throughout the country. Even so, it’s a bit tricky to use in small towns or in remote areas where data is thin and it can be confusing finding specific streets because name abbreviations are so often used. Sometimes it can be even more confusing in cities that can have dozens of variations of the same street name. Still, our Magellan did help us get oriented in big cities which is very helpful.


5. Better yet, buy a Guia Roji

Available at most big book stores in Mexico and at some big gas stations, this is the Rand McNally atlas for Mexico and still the best source of roadway and city maps plus it has a relatively accurate chart that will help you calculate what the tolls will cost if you choose to take the country’s pay highways instead of the network of free roads (see below).






6. Pay  Highway vs. Free Roads…

Pay highway pros: wide and well paved; usually bypass towns and villages; virtually unenforced speed limit; fastest way between two points–often 2-3 times faster than the free road route; you’ll often have the whole road to yourself; drivers on pay highways are automatically covered by limited insurance that covers civil liability, medical payments and funeral expenses (this does NOT satisfy your requirement to have Mexican insurance, however–see below); pay highways are patrolled by the Green Angels, an amazing fleet of bright green tow trucks driven by mechanics ready to fix what’s broken free of charge (see below).

Pay highway cons: tolls can add up (the 178 mile pay road between Puebla and Veracruz costs US$28, that’s more than a peso per kilometer, and you could spend more than US$350 in tolls driving from one end of the country to the other); since pay highways bypass towns and villages you don’t see much of real Mexico–driving on a pay highway is virtually the same as driving on a US interstate.

Free road pros: no tolls; since they pass through towns and villages you see Mexican life as you travel.

Free road cons: can be 2-3 times slower than the pay highway route; often narrow roads that connect towns and cities becoming slow moving main streets through each town and city along the way before turning back into a “highway” out of town; lots of topes (see below); cheaper trucking companies use the free roads too, so there are often big trucks on small roads.

You can get a detailed driving route with pay highway times and tolls from Mexico’s Secretary of Communications and Transportation. This is a particularly great tool for planning routes between cities.


7. The Green Angels make AAA look like a racket

Any driver on any road in Mexico can call the Green Angels and a bright green truck driven by bilingual mechanics will show up (8 am to 6 pm) ready to fix what’s broken for the price of the parts/fuel/oil (tips are appreciated). Green Angels patrol the pay highways, but if you don’t see one when you need one you just dial 078 and they’ll come to you.




8. Topes are a bitch

Tope (pronounced toe-pay) is the Spanish word for bump and is used for speed bumps. These concrete and rock humps in the road vary in steepness, width and severity but they’re all hellish. In the course of our Trans-Americas Journey we must have driven over tens of thousands of them. They are efficient and brutal–especially the ones that are unsigned and sneak up on you before you can slow down. There’s a reason there’s almost always a tire repair shack at or near a tope.

They’re also dreadful for your fuel economy and your shocks–which is part of the reason we upgraded to Bilstein shocks.

By the time we left Mexico we’d come up with two new terms relating to topes (no, they’re not swear words):

-nope (pronounced no-pay): What you find when you slow down and reach what you thought was a tope only to discover that it’s not.

-rope (pronounced row-pay): A tope made by laying a massive rope across the road. These can be even more brutal than the stone and concrete varieties.


9. Hoy no circula!

Mexico City’s air quality has improved dramatically in recent years, thanks in part to the innovative hoy no circula (today you can’t drive) rules that designate “no driving” days for all private vehicles in Mexico City and the state of Mexico based on the last number in your license plate. These rules absolutely apply to foreign drivers and it’s important to understand the rules, follow them and be armed with a good working knowledge of the program so you can make your case when a Mexico City cop pulls you over and (wrongly) accuses you of driving on a day or at a time you aren’t supposed to, which has happened to us. Here’s where to get complete hoy no circula rules in English.

You can also apply for a 14 day tourist waiver that exempts you from the hoy no circula rules in Mexico City.


10. Shakedown breakdown

Even armed with full knowledge of Mexican road rules and full compliance with said rules you will probably get pulled over by a cop in Mexico. Despite the fact that the Mexican government has made it illegal for the police to extort drivers for money (that had to be officially spelled out?), it still happens to locals and to foreigners. Soon after arriving in Mexico an expat tipped us off to this trick for getting out of these situations and after being pulled over multiple times in Mexico we can tell you that it works.

A. Act dumb and pretend that you don’t understand much Spanish, why you were stopped or what the cop is asking for. Maybe the cop will get bored and irritated and give up at this point. If he doesn’t…

B. Have the person in the passenger seat (also acting clueless and stupidly kind of excited by this “brush with the natives”) pull out a point and shoot camera and start happily taking pictures of this vacation memory in the making. Smile. Shoot some more.

C. Drive away. Because all cops know that extortion is illegal none of them will want to be photographed in the act. The cop will probably get angry when he sees the camera, but he will also tell you to get the hell out of there and the whole altercation will be over with no money paid, no shouting and no confrontation.


11. Mexicans are not bad drivers (they just have some wacky habits)

Two of the most important Mexican driving habits to understand are as follows:

A. Making two lanes into three lanes. Many two-lane Mexican roads have ample shoulders. This allows for an intricate ballet that involves slower traffic driving primarily on the shoulder allowing faster traffic to pass straddling the center line in an imaginary third lane. Cooperation from all parties is obviously required.

B. A left turn signal does not mean I’m turning left. Usually, it means “it’s clear to pass me.” This leads to some confusion when you really want to make a left hand turn which is accomplished by pulling over to the right of the road and waiting for all traffic behind you to pass, then turning left.


12. Not all Mexican auto insurance is created equal

You must carry Mexican auto liability insurance if you’re going to drive your own car in the country, but who you choose can make a huge difference. A company called Adventure Mexican Insurance Services acts as a brokerage for Mexican auto insurance and it is totally Trans-Americas Journey approved. They’re based in the U.S. and their 800# is always staffed with English speakers who can help with questions or issues, they offer great rates and they have fixers who can help solve claims problems. If we’d gone through Adventure Mexican Insurance Services instead of buying direct from stinky old GNP Insurance in the first place, we wouldn’t have gotten so screwed when a taxi ran into us and GNP jerked us around when we made a claim. That’s why when it was time to get a new policy we went right to these guys.

Use this link to purchase your insurance through Adventure Mexican Insurance Services and you won’t pay any more but we’ll get a small comission which will help us put a few more gallons in our gas tank.


13. You can’t beat a Mexican car wash

They’re cheap (less than 60 pesos, about US$5, for the exterior of our huge truck) and they’re often meticulous. Basically, a team of guys descends on your vehicle with high pressure washers and buckets of suds. No surface is left un-scrubbed, including the wheel wells and undercarriage. The whole thing culminates in a wipe down and polish of all rubber/plastic surfaces including your tires. We’ve had epic washes all over Mexico but the car washes in Mexico City and outside Playa del Carmen stand out. Set aside at least 45 minutes.

They’ll give the same treatment to your interior too for just a few pesos more.




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Mujeres y Mayans – Tapachula, Chiapas, Mexico

Tapachula could be just another border town (when your Wiki page starts with “Tapachula is a hot, humid town…” it ain’t good), however, there are two standout reasons to stop.

The first is Casa Mexicana, a boutique hotel with just 10 rooms each named for an iconic Mexican woman. Yes, Frida gets a room. Bt the hotel also pays homage to Doña Josepha Ortiz de Dominguez, known as La Corregidora, a privileged woman who lived in Querétaro and was one of the earliest agitators for Mexican independence. Then there’s  Ofelia Medina, a seminal Mexican actress and singer who’s still alive today. And Maria Bonita, a famous beauty who had an infamous affair with a singer who gave her her name. Short bios of each woman are part of the eclectic and colorful in-room decor.

One of the rooms at Casa Mexicana in Tapachula, Mexico.


In fact, the whole place is fun to look at too–chock full of art and kitch collected by the peripatetic owners, including an impressive mask collection, some fascinating religious art and a massive two-part painting of women’s legs in fishnets that was rescued from a burlesque hall in Mexico City.

This pair of paintings at Casa Mexicana was salvaged from a burlesque hall in Mexico City.

Lucha in a box! Just one of the many playful pieces of art in Casa Mexicana.


There’s also a swimming pool, an inviting open air bar, a great restaurant and charming co-owner Manuel. With doubles from around US$80 it’s a great value.

The swimming pool at Casa Mexicana in Tapachula, Mexico.


The second reason to do more than just pass through Tapachula is the Mayan ruins at Izapa archaeological site. Some experts believe that this collection of three little-visited sites which may have played an important role in Mayan astrology and calendar making. Yes, that same calendar that “ends” in 2012 which has sparked theories ranging from “it’s the end of the world” to “it’s a chance for humanity to reboot” to “they must have run out of stone.”

A plaza at one of the areas that makes up the Izapa archaeological site which some experts believe is connected to the Mayan calendar which mysteriously ends in 2012.

A rana (frog) altar at one of the areas that makes up the Izapa archaeological site which some experts believe is connected to the Mayan calendar which mysteriously ends in 2012.


All three of the pre-Hispanic sites lie a few miles outside of Tapachula on the way to the Guatemala border. They’re small, free and overseen by a caretaker family. You will likely be the only visitor there. All day. There are not a lot of structures to see in the Izapa group, but there are carved rocks galore, including what some believe to be the origins of the calendar which mysteriously comes to an end in 2012.

Small stele at one of the areas that makes up the Izapa archaeological site which some experts believe is connected to the Mayan calendar which mysteriously ends in 2012.

An unusual fertility sculpture at one of the areas that makes up the Izapa archaeological site which some experts believe is connected to the Mayan calendar which mysteriously ends in 2012.


Need another reason to put  Tapachula on the itinerary? It’s also the jumping off point to the coffee fincas of the Ruta de Cafe, which we raved about in our last post.


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