Best of the Trans-Americas Journey 2010 – Best Food & Beverages

This post is part 3 of 4 in the series Best of 2010

Welcome to Part 2 in our 3 Part “Best Of 2010″ series of posts. Part 2 is all about the Best Food & Beverages of the year. Part 1 covered the Best Adventures & Attractions of 2010 and Part 3 covers the Best Hotels of the year.

Yes, yes, end of year round-ups can be lame.

Or they can be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are. Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a valuable chance for you to get a quick hit of the best of the best tools, tricks, triumphs and truths that made our  Trans-Americas Journey in 2010 and, we hope, inspire you to hit the road yourself in 2011 (or 2012, no pressure).

Obviously, we’re going for a non-lame version here.

First, a few relevant stats:

In 2010 the Trans-Americas Journey…

…explored three countries (Mexico, Belize and Guatemala–though we’re still not through with the latter two)

…covered 12,662 miles (a slow year for us)

…spent $2,685 on fuel (yikes)

…had zero flat tires (for real)

…bounced over about a billion topes (vicious Latin American speed bumps)

We’ve also eaten nearly all our meals in restaurants of one description or another from street food stalls to bustling markets to multi-star restaurants. In no particular order, here are some of the best bites and top tipples that made all that time on the road even tastier.

Provecho!

 

Best baked goods: Every afternoon around 5:00 a red VW Beetle (circa 1970-something) rolls into the Plaza Borda in central Taxco, Mexico with a 4’ wide basket heaped with a dozen varieties of freshly made pastries, breads, cookies and confections. The crew of female vendors can barely set the basket on its stand before they’re swarmed by locals eagerly pointing to their favorite goodies (all less than US$1). Luckily, the red VW returns with more lovingly-packed baskets strapped to its specially-designed roof rack until every morsel is sold. It does not take long.

 

Best agua fresca: The fresh  lime and strawberry infused water made by the friendly natural food vendor just inside the Mercado Libertad in central Guadalajara. All-natural, refreshing, cheap.

 

Best martini: The AAA four diamond Casa de Piedra restaurant at Hacienda Xcanatun near Merida in southern Mexico is renowned as some of the best eating in this already food-centric region (George W. Bush and Mexican President Felipe Calderón dined here together in 2007). Co-owner Cristina Baker who is at the forefront of the local slow food movement and a passionate food innovator. She actually went to culinary school before opening the restaurant. The food (which combines French technique with local ingredients) was outstanding but it was the pre-dinner martini that was the star of the show–perfectly mixed, garnished with real cocktail olives and served in the most elegant (yet functional) decanter we’ve ever seen.

 

Best chef’s table meal: Casa Oaxaca is a world-class boutique hotel that is only out-classed by its food. Headed by lauded local chef Alejandro Ruiz, who’s at the forefront of nouveu Oaxacan cooking, the cuisine at the hotel restaurant, the neighboring stand-alone restaurant and a charming more casual cafe just outside of the heart of Oaxaca City is reliably inventive and delicious. Still, we were not prepared for the mind (and palette) expanding meal we were in store for when we sat down for dinner at the hotel one evening. Chef Ruiz protege Chef Luis runs the hotel’s small-capacity kitchen and the four course meal he delivered to us was stunning in its daring (semi-solid green mole, hot chocolate with mezcal) and it’s delivery (delicate fish on a polished rock instead of a plate). For 260 pesos per person (about US$22) it was also a stunning bargain. Reservations are a must if you want to eat at the small restaurant in the hotel.

 

Best cup of coffee: Bruno Geisemann, owner of Finca Argovia in the Ruta de Cafe in Chiapas, Mexico, has a vision and it involves worms. And compost. And babbling brooks. And birds. And trees all over his shade-grown coffee plantation. He’s worked hard for years to realize his vision–turning his family’s coffee plantation into a model of sustainable organic farming. The earth here is happy and you can taste that in Bruno’s coffee which is so complex, rich and smooth that we finally learned to drink it black. A collection of beautiful cabins on the lush property are the perfect place to wake up to a cup of Bruno’s black gold before touring the operation. Warning: Bruno’s enthusiasm is as addictive as his coffee.

 

Best tamale: In San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas State, Mexico a red light bulb in front of a house is the universal sign that the tamales are ready. We skipped the offerings in the heart of town and walked a few blocks down Leon Street (keep to the right when the road splits) and headed for a tiny red light in the distance. Here, every Wednesday and Saturday after 7:00 pm, a woman sets up a steaming pot of fresh tamales filled with a mind-boggling variety of meats, chilies, cheeses and vegetables each variety shaped and tied differently so she can tell them apart as she fills your order.

 

Best Italian: Homemade pasta, freshly-baked bread, excellent risotto, a great wine list–that’s what you get at Los Pelicanos on tiny Isla Holbox in Mexico.

 

Best tlayuda: Beautiful Oaxaca is such a foodie town that the choices can be overwhelming but the one emblematic local food is the tlayuda (you won’t find this concoction anywhere else in Mexico). Our favorite tlayuda is found about 10 minutes outside of the city center on a residential street called Avenida Mexico in the Colonia Infonavit 1 de Mayo neighborhood. Every night around 8:00 pm, a mother and her sons set up shop under a tarp. Look for the crowds and join them for a 12” homemade super-thin corn tortilla topped with a smear of beans, a handful of chopped cabbage, your choice of succulent fresh chopped meat and strips of mild Oaxacan cheese (like gourmet string cheese). Once on the grill, the tortilla is folded in half and the ingredients meld into a kind of Mexican Philly cheese steak. Topped with homemade salsas, this has the fun-factor of a snack with the staying power of a meal–and for less than $3.

 

Best breakfast buffet: The buffet breakfast has almost become a joke, except that there’s nothing funny about stale cereal, weak coffee and  and watered-down juice.  Our faith in the institution of the grand breakfast spread was restored at Live Aqua Resort in Cancun, Mexico where Siete restaurant lays on a buffet that includes succulent meaty Mexican favorites like cochinita pibil in addition to all the more traditional breakfast treats (eggs, baked goods, wonderful fruit) plus endless champagne, a pot of fabulous coffee right on your table and some of the best house-cured salmon we’ve ever had.

 

Best fried chicken: The smell got us first. Pure hot salty deliciousness wafting out of a collection of unassuming open-sided restaurants located smack dab between the two churches on the main square in Chichicastenango, Guatemala. In a country that ‘s crazy for fried chicken, Chichi (as the town is called) is, if you ask us, at the top of the pecking order. Fried on the spot and served with rice, black beans, french fries (another Guatemalan staple) and hearty hand made tortillas. Eat your heart out, Colonel.

 

Best designer cocktail: Chef Richard Sandoval has a mind-boggling number of restaurants around the world including Maya in New York City and Dubai, Zengo in Denver, DC, Santa Monica and New York, Pámpano in NY and Qatar, Isla in Las Vegas, La Sandía in Denver, Santa Monica and Virginia and Masa 14 in Washington DC.. His latest is Tuna in the swanky Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City. The Mex-Asian fusion food works surprisingly well but the standout for us was the refreshing (and pleasingly not sweet) Margarita de Pepino Toreada, which takes a traditional margarita and punches it up with fresh cucumber, Serrano chile and a splash of smoky mezcal. UPDATE: Tuna has since closed.

 

Best taco stand name: Spartacos in Tuxtla Gutierrez.

 

Best fish tacos: Sixteen pesos (about US$1.50)  is a whole lot to pay for a taco in Mexico (where they’re usually more like 3-5 pesos), but Taco Fish on a wide swath of sidewalk on La Paz Street in central Guadalajara, Mexico slings expertly fried fish and shrimp tacos with all the fixin’s (fresh salsas, spicy creamy sauces, fresh cole slaw). The crowd speaks for itself, but be warned: unless you’re an NFL linebacker do NOT order more than two.

 

Best non-fish tacos: Tacos may be everywhere in Mexico but they are most certainly not created equal. At Taqueria Los Paisas in Mexico City a theatrical grill master and his team churn out thousands of beef, chorizo or al pastor (a cone-shaped stack of meat slowly grilled on a vertical rotating spit like a gyro) each day to perpetual crowds who help themselves to a fixins’ bar that includes grilled cactus, spicy chunky potato salad and plump beans as well as the usual salsas. Check out the delicious also-rans in our Mexico City Taco Taste Test.

Las Paisas tacos Mexico City

 


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World Class Centro Historico – Mexico City

This post is part 3 of 5 in the series Mexico City

The heart of our beloved Mexico City is an area called the Centro Historico. It’s got everything from culture to art to architecture to food to bars to fabulous people and people watching. Here are some of our favorite unsung reasons to love the heart of this soulful city (and one disappointing sandwich warning).

The Angel of Independence is not technically in the Centro Historico, but it is the official symbol of Mexico City. Get here early enough on a weekend morning and you can score a pass that lets you (and a strictly limited number of others) climb into the statue's pedestal up to a small observation deck.

Mariachi cops patrol the Plaza Alameda near the Centro Historico in Mexico City.

The gloriously Art Nouveau and Art Deco Palacio de Bellas Artes is home to wonderful live performances and some of the most iconic murals in Mexico.

Mexico City's Catedral Metropolitana is the largest and oldest cathedral in The Americas.

Grand tiled buildings dot the streets of central Mexico City's Centro Historico. This one happens to house a terrific BBQ chicken joint on the ground level and is on the same block as our beloved Cafe Popular.

Welcome to Mexico City's central post office. The opulent architecture of what's fittingly called Palacio Postal almost makes paying nearly US$1 for a post card stamp from Mexico to the US worth it...

Old and (somewhat) new mingle like friends in Mexico City's Centro Historico. The Torre Latinoamericana was the tallest building in Latin America when it was built and Mexico City's tallest building from 1956 until 1984.

The Palacio de Bellas Artes and Plaza Alameda as seen from the observation deck of the Torre Latinoamericana.

The bright lights of Mexico City as seen from the observation deck of the Torre Latinoamericana.

Mariachi's outside the brand new Tequila Museum in Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City.

Ideal Bakery is a massive, delicious and addictive institution in Mexico City's Centro Historico.

Cafeteria El Cuadrilatero is owned by famous lucha libre star Super Astro. The wall of costumes from other famous lucha libre wrestlers is interesting and we appreciate the challenge of The Gladiator (if you eat this massive sandwich in 15 minutes or less it

We have no idea why, but Mexico City's Centro Historico is peppered with perfumeries ready, willing and able to craft a custom perfume or copy your favorite at a fraction of the price.

Classic 19th Century architecture in Mexico City's Centro Historico.


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In the Hoods – Mexico City

This post is part 2 of 5 in the series Mexico City

We’ve been posting a lot about Mexico City lately (see our tacos post and our posts about the recent bicentennial celebrations) but we’ve been focused on the Centro area of the city. In reality, Mexico City has the feel, culture, bustle and possibility of New York City and its distinct neighborhoods. Those neighborhoods are a big part of why we love Mexico City so here’s our New Yorkers take on the best of the boroughs.


This macrame bus was parked on a street as a semi-permanent art installation in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City.


Roma

The Roma neighborhood is most like New York’s East Village or Brooklyn before it got all fancy. Roma’s got grit, but it’s attractive grit with a youthful energy and an open mind. The shady sidewalks have cracks and the occasional spilled garbage can and they’re generally filled with hipsters in DIY fashion, big guys walking tiny dogs, people carrying yoga mats, you get the picture.

Gay pride flags are increasingly common in Roma and we once walked past a skate shop here that was staffed by slouchy teenage guys playing with a real live lion cub in the middle of the shop. True story.

Roma is also home to our beloved Non Solo Panino café and restaurant located on tranquil Plaza Luis Cabrera. We still love it for laid back people watching, a real slice of the neighborhood and generally affordable bistro style eats even though they raised their wine-by-the-glass price from 25 pesos to 40 pesos (about US$3.00) since the last time we were there.

Brand new Hotel Brick in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City is buttoned-up and super-cool at the same time.


Best bed: The brand new Hotel Brick does the best job we’ve seen lately of melding hip (the hotel’s bar, lounge and restaurants have become instant hits with Roma locals who help create a vibrant scene most nights) and full-service. Like the neighborhood it’s in, this hotel manages to be buttoned-up and bohemian at the same time.


The lobby bar of the brand new Hotel Brick in the Roma neighborhood.


Condesa

Welcome to Soho, Mexico style! You can’t swing a cat without hitting a model or an actor in the cooler-than-you Condesa neighborhood where the stores are expensive, dinner starts at 10 and you’d better be on the guest list.

The fairly competitive/on display vibe is tempered by big leafy parks and plenty of cafes and bars to wind down in.  Mexico City’s admirable Eco Bici program–which has placed hundreds of bicycles for short or long-term use in automated kiosks across the city–has really taken off in the relatively-traffic free streets of Condesa.

Just a few of the hundreds of bicycles that are part of Mexico City's Eco Bici bike-for-rent program.


Best bed: Condesa df hotel has anchored this neighborhood for years and continues to provide spaces for the cool to congregate, particularly the rooftop bar. Do not miss the tiny but chicly-stocked hotel store.


A vintage car/art installation in front of Condesa df hotel in the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City.

Rooms at Condesa df hotel, in the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City, are simply chic with views out to the leafy streets.

Welcome to the enormous patio that's part of Condesa df hotel's verison of a Presidential Suite. It's located just below the hotle's A-list roof lounge (is that Bono at the bar?).

Even the hang tags at Condesa df hotel have attitude.


Polanco

On the surface the Polanco neighborhood reminds us more of Beverly Hills than New York but after a day or two its charmingly diverse and gritty side shows itself and makes us feel right at home–if a bit underdressed.

The main four lane boulevard through Polanco is a shopper’s Shangri La with gleaming stores from Hermes to Chanel to Marc Jacobs to Bulgari to Tiffany, just to name a few. In fact, women come here from around the world to get their hands on the season’s must-have waiting-list-only items which tend to be easier to score here than at stores in Manhattan or Los Angeles where you’re competing with so many more shoppers.

Polanco is also where Mexico City’s sizable Jewish population is centered and there are synagogues and Kosher food stores and restaurants like Kleins were we ordered a corned beef sandwich which was positively anorexic by New York standards but was still passable.

What passes for a corned beef sandwich at Klein's in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City.

This is also the neighborhood where Carlos Slim’s new US$750 million mushroom-esque Soumaya Museum (named after his late wife), will be when it opens (theoretically) next month. And Mexican-born chef Richard Sandoval just opened his latest restaurant, Tuna, in Polanco. Read our full profile of Tuna restaurant for iTraveliShop.


Best bed: We’ve come to think of Hotel Las Alcobas as a boutique hotel version of the nearby Four Seasons. Perfect service, perfect amenities, perfect design, perfect location.


Another perfect element at Hotel Las Alcobas in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City.

Another perfect element at Hotel Las Alcobas in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City.

We've come to think of Hotel Las Alcobas in the Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City as a boutique version of a Four Seasons--it's that perfect.


Santa Fe

Santa Fe may not be the first most logical choice for a purely leisure traveler visiting Mexico City since it’s not convenient to the main attractions and museums. However, it’s a bit like Fifth Avenue with its mix of spending money (fancy stores, including one of only two Saks Fifth Avenue stores outside the US–the other one is in Dubai) and making money (corporate headquarters), making it ideal for business travelers.


Best bed: The new Distrito Capital hotel delivers some of the most exciting design we’ve seen plus awesome views over the Mexico City valley (all hotel rooms are located on the top three floors of an apartment tower).


The pool/lounge off an inviting open-air bar at Distrito Capital Hotel in the Santa Fe neighborhood of Mexico City.

Stark, playful rooms also boast unbeatable views over Mexico City at Distrito Capital Hotel in the Santa Fe neighborhood.

A bathtub with a view over the Mexico City valley from Distrito Capital Hotel in the Santa Fe neighborhood.



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