Best Of the Trans-Americas Journey 2011 – Best Hotels

Welcome to Part 3 in our  “Best Of 2011″ series of posts. Part 3 is all about the Best Hotels of the year (from showers with a view to urban eco hotels). Part 1 covers the Best Adventures & Attractions of 2011 and Part 2 covers the Best Food & Beverages.

Yes, end of year round-ups can be lame. On the other hand, they can also be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are.

Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a quick and easy way for you to get a dose of the best tips, tricks and truths that made our Trans-Americas Journey so special in 2011. Maybe, just maybe, you’ll hit the road yourself in 2012 (or 2013, no pressure).

First, a few relevant stats:

In 2011 the Trans-Americas Journey…

…thoroughly explored four countries (Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador)

…drove 8,055 miles (we said they were small countries)

…spent $2,300 on fuel (yes, that’s in US dollars)

…had one flat tire (we drove over a nail in Copan, Honduras)

…bounced over about a billion topes/tumulos (viscous Latin American speed bumps) and through twice that many pot holes

We also spent nearly all 365 nights of 2011 in hotels (when we weren’t lucky enough to be staying with new friends, old friends or family). In no particular order, here are some of the hotel moments that stand out.

Best Hotels of 2011

Best private plunge pool: The Honeymoon Cabana at Francis Ford Coppola’s Blancaneaux Lodge in Belize has many romantic touches. The most irresistible one is the private plunge pool. It’s roomier and deeper that most plunge pools and it’s ultra-private with sweeping views over the hills and forests of the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve and Privassion Creek below.

Best eco hotel: Sure Hotel Arbol de Fuego in San Salvador (the capital of El Salvador) has made all the usual eco moves like long life bulbs and “please re-use your towels” signs. But this homey, tranquil boutique guesthouse has also adopted a ton of other initiatives (low-flow showers for example) that have resulted in epic reductions in energy use, water consumption and pollution.The owner, a passionately green woman named Carolina, has kept meticulous records of the profitable side effects her eco efforts. Her success has been so big and so well documented that Carolina is now helping other small hotels in El Salvador take the environmental plunge. BONUS: Hotel Arbol de Fuego is within walking distance of the pupuseria La Unica which serves what we consider to be the best pupusas in El Salvador.

Best massage room: The petite spa at Belcampo Belize (formerly Machaca Hill Rainforest Lodge) near Punta Gorda in Belize has just one massage room but it’s a doozy. An entire wall is floor to ceiling windows  with views into some of the 13,000 acres of jungle that surrounds the resort. Book a treatment in the morning or evening for the best chance of seeing toucans and howler monkeys right outside.

Best hostel kitchen: The shared kitchen at Casa Verde in Santa Ana, El Salvador has more tools and gadgets than the kitchen in our old apartment. It’s also spotless and there are two refrigerators–one entirely filled with ice-cold beer. Related thought: we’re loving this website that dishes about easy recipes that can be made in even the most basic hostel kitchen using cheap, available ingredients (and gadgets) with delicious results.

Best unexpected hotel moment: We were thrilled at the chance to witness the epic Semana Santa celebrations in Antigua, Guatemala. Then the owner of Hotel San Jorge (large, spotless rooms from $50 with fireplaces and Wi-Fi arranged around a meticuously maintined and super-serene garden) invited us to take it one step further. And so we found ourselves helping her create a traditional temporary street decoration called an alfombra on the road in front of her hotel. We don’t know of any other hotel in Antigua that offers this experience. Our advice is to book your Semana Santa room now.

Best beach house: It’s a perfect recipe: a rustic chic private beach house with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, small pool, hammock-filled deck, open air kitchen and living room all mere steps from the waves on a secluded beach. Even better, Los Caracoles, on Maculis beach in El Salvador, is owned and run by the same guys who operate the stunning Los Almendros hotel in Suchitoto–one of the best hotels in the country.

Best hotel for Mayanists: Hacienda San Lucas is a lovingly restored 100 year old family home which now oozes rustic charm in the foothills above Copan, Honduras which is home to the epic remains of the Mayan city of Copan. But you need not leave the hillside to get close to one of the most fascinating civilizations that ever existed. Hacienda San Lucas is run by Doña Flavia Cueva who is the daughter of a man roundly credited with preserving Copan and creating the archaeological discipline in Honduras.  Doña Flavia’s daughter, Frida Larios, has turned her artists’ eye to Mayan glyphs, transforming the traditional ancient stone carvings into modern graphic art which decorates the hotel. The kitchen turns out traditional Mayan dishes during five-course gourmet dinners and the hacienda is just a short walk away from a small, mysterious cluster of Mayan remains called Los Sapos.

Best outdoor shower: The outdoor “jungle showers” on the decks of the plush hillside suites at Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch in Belize are spacious and beautiful but odds are you’ll be too busy admiring the view of the Caves Branch River, karst hills and sprawling orange groves in this bucolic section of Western Belize to  notice the tile work and charming use of a tin bucket. The perfect way to wash off your cave adventures!

Best boutique hotel newcomer: Newly opened five room Casa ILB in San Salvador, El Salvador is minimal, elegant and (for now) shocking affordable with rates from $110 double including a lovely breakfast buffet. We did not want to leave.

 


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Change in the Sea Air – Placencia, Belize

There have been big changes in Placencia since Eric visited in 1993–though we were happy to see that the tiny (but expanding) landing strip still exists in the midst of a giant curve in the road, sometimes requiring drivers to stop and wait for planes to clear the asphalt on their way into or out of the airport.

Unlike in 1993, the road to Placencia is paved all the way and construction of fancy homes and condo buildings is going on everywhere you look, giving the place a kind of Caribbean Hamptons 30 years ago feel. Out a long peninsula, the area has one road. In places, the sea laps up on both sides mere feet from from the pavement. One of the two thoroughfares through Placencia town, at the very tip of the peninsula, is a sidewalk which, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, is the narrowest main street in the world at 4,071 feet (1,240 meters) long and just  four feet (1.2 meters) wide.

A very purple house along the world's narrowest main street in Placencia, Belize.

The biggest change in Placencia is being spearheaded by Royal Caribbean Cruise Line which is pushing hard to build a cruise ship dock in town. When we were in Placencia this was pretty much all anyone was talking about. The locals have had numerous meetings with Royal Caribbean execs and their fancy presentations about why a massive cruise ship dock and disembarking hoards would be good for Placencia and its population of less than 1,000 people.

Tourism business owners and regular locals, however, have almost universally adopted a position against cruise ship arrivals and we can tell you one thing: we wouldn’t want to be on the other side of the argument. These are some determined people who love where they live. They’ve also developed a healthy dose of cruise ship skepticism after watching the months-long, petty and very public fight between Carnival Cruise Lines and local boatmen in Belize City over the cost of tendering passengers from ship to shore.

A view of the coastline in Placencia, Belize from Chabil Mar Villas.

For now, no cruise ships sully the lovely, lazy coastline in Placencia which has a strange but appealing mix of florid Caribbean shacks and florid (in a different way) McMansions.

Honestly, this tiny place with very limited infrastructure seems to be maxed out in terms of tourist facilities even without the cruise ship throngs. There are dozens of cottages, guesthouses, hotels and small locally-owned resorts (no chains yet) in most every price point.

Want a cheapie? Check the quaint options in town. Want a condo? Chabil Mar Villas has 18 of them to choose from with multiple bedrooms, laundry and full kitchens plus a bank of three wonderful outdoor gas grills which no one seems to use for some reason. Want a world-class boutique hotel chic? Head to Francis Ford Coppola’s Turtle Inn where they’ve just renovated Sophia Coppola’s Beach House, a modern, two unit, loft-like haven, and now you can sleep there too (when she’s not there, of course).

One of two swimming pools at Francis Ford Coppola's Turtle Inn in Placencia, Belize.

A casita at Francis Ford Coppola's Turtle Inn in Placencia, Belize.

A triangular pool (the shape is a recurring theme at all three of at Francis Ford Coppola's resorts) at Turtle Inn in Placencia, Belize.

Earlier this year, Placencia pioneers and creators of the Inn at Robert’s Grove, Robert and Risa Frackman, sold the resort they opened back in 1997 to the same team that recently re-created the Singing Sands Inn.

Nothing new at Rumfish y Vino, but that’s the way you want it. Pamela and John Solomon opened this stylish, breezy bar and gastro pub in November of 2008, mere months after honeymooning in Placencia and falling in love with the place. Timid, they are not. Nor is their eatery. Imported wine, gourmet fish tacos, inventive red curry risotto, rich shrimp bisque in a homemade bread bowl. All delicious and made more so as Aretha Franklin serenades and a stylish gang mingles.

Turtle Inn, Placencia Belize.

 

TIP
Can’t afford Turtle Inn? Check out the more affordable Starfish Cottage. Located on a chunk of beachfront land completely surrounded by Turtle Inn, guests at Starfish Cottage get full access to Turtle Inn’s facilities.

 

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Best of the Trans-Americas Journey 2010 – Best Hotels

Welcome to Part 3 in our 3 Part “Best Of 2010″ series of posts. Part 3 is all about the Best Hotels of the year. Part 1 covers the Best Adventures & Attractions of 2010 and Part 2 covers the Best Food & Beverages.

Yes, yes, end of year round-ups can be lame.

Or they can be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are. Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a valuable chance for you to get a quick hit of the best of the best tools, tricks, triumphs and truths that made our  Trans-Americas Journey in 2010 and, we hope, inspire you to hit the road yourself in 2011 (or 2012, no pressure).

Obviously, we’re going for a non-lame version here.

First, a few relevant stats:

In 2010 the Trans-Americas Journey…

…explored three countries (Mexico, Belize and Guatemala–though we’re still not through with the latter two)

…traveled 12,662 miles (a slow year for us)

…spent $2,685 on fuel (yikes)

…had zero flat tires (for real)

…bounced over about a billion topes (vicious Latin American speed bumps)

We also spent nearly all 365 nights of 2010 in hotels (when we weren’t lucky enough to be staying with new friends, old friends or family). In no particular order, here are some of the hotel moments that made all that time on the road even better.

 

Best Robinson Crusoe romance room: Posada del Arquitecto in a multi-level thatch-roofed open-air bungalow perched on a cactus-covered rocky outcrop a couple dozen feet above the Pacific Ocean which crashes dramatically onto the soft sand of Playa Rinconocito in Mazunte, Oaxaca State, Mexico. We snagged Cactus, the mojo-filled cabana the Italian architect owner originally built for himself. This duplex with its own entrance is rustic romance personified with a peep-free location that encourages traipsing around half-naked, a hammock made for two, a petite kitchen (just big enough to chill some beer, whip up some guacamole or a pasta dinner and brew morning coffee) and the sound and sight of those dramatic waves 24/7. There is nothing fancy here. The romance of this room comes from its location and its sense of seclusion–two key qualities that are hard to find.

 

Best all-inclusive: Generally speaking, we are not all-inclusive beach resort kinds of people. We ARE world-class food, gorgeous decor, impeccable service,  and classy guilt-free indulgences kinds of people which explains why we were so won over by Grand Velas All Suites Spa & Resort Riviera Maya.   Sometimes we play this video (taken from our suite) just to reminisce…

 

Best check in: Arriving guests at Live Aqua Cancun are greeted by a staffer who sits them down in a comfy chair and proceeds to give them a hand massage. True story.

 

Best eco bungalows amongst Mayan ruins: The private flight in and the gourmet food say luxury while the deep-jungle setting and the unexcavated Mayan ruins say natural wonders. Both co-exist happily at Chan Chich Lodge in northern Belize, one of the world’s first luxury eco retreats and still one of the most impressive practitioners of the art of combining a sense of really being in nature (the warbling of ocellated turkeys will likely be your wake up call) with cocktail hour.

 

Best unexpected hotel art collection(s): There’s an arty little secret lurking in Chiapas, Mexico and it’s all thanks to one man. Mario Uvence is an art and antiques dealer and a figure in the Mexican and international art worlds. He is also the owner of  Parador San Juan de Dios hotel in San Cristobal de las Casas and Parador Santa Maria hotel near Lagos de Montebello. Both hotels offer antique-stuffed rooms in meticulously restored buildings. But the real reason to visit is to gain access to the petite but powerful art collections at each property, both run by the Mario Uvence Cultural Foundation. The  gallery at San Juan de Dios is appropriately called Eklektic and it features 17th to 21st century religious sculptures, paintings and other works of art from Chiapas, the Philipines and Europe. We saw pieces here (like a tiny baby Jesus carved out of ivory) that we’ve never seen in any other museum in the world. At Santa Maria’s Museo de Arte Sacro, religious pieces are on show in thoroughly modern displays inside the old bones of a renovated church. The collections, and their surroundings, are equally spectacular.

 

Best do-no-disturb sign: Privacy is paramount to many of the bold-name guests who check into Condesa df in Mexico City and that’s reflected in their door hang tags which read “No” on one side and “Do Not” on the other.

 

Best clever hotel web site: We look at a LOT of hotel web sites and we can honestly say we’ve never been as entertained by a hotel web site as much as we were when we stumbled upon the Luz en Yucatan web site. The Luz, a moderately-priced guesthouse in the city of Merida in southern Mexico, offers “amusing accommodations” (a range of spotless, great-value stylish rooms and apartments) in a big converted home in the center of town. One of the rooms at Luz en Yucatan is named after a dearly departed iguana. The rate you pay ($50 –$94) is based on whether you consider yourself  “not at all successful” “moderately successful” or “exceedingly successful.” Rooms are available by the night, week, or month, or, for the existentialist “they are available by the moment.” Whimsical illustrations and a found-object/DIY look add to the charm of the site. Even if you’re not planning a trip to Merida a trip to the Luz en Yucatan web site is time well spent.

 

Best hotel surprise: It sounds crazy: A French farmhouse-inspired boutique hotel in a tiny Mexican town in Veracruz State. And yet, there it is. A pleasantly weathered bicycle leans against a stone wall. A bowl of limes sits in a colander on a wooden table under a gnarled tree. A pair of jaunty Jack Russell terriers greets you at the door. Your room is sparingly furnished with meticulously-sourced European antiques and Mexican-made replicas of French classics. Meals are made using French techniques and local ingredients. Even the General Manager  is French! Once we simply accepted (and reveled in) the unforced French style and charm of  Maison Couturier this place delivered the most transporting hotel experience we had all year.

Maison Couturier

 

Best new hotel (that we stayed at): From bordello to locksmith to one of Mexico’s best new boutique hotels. That’s the journey Hotel Brick has made. We were there soon after its opening and the place had already become a hip magnet in the very hip Roma neighborhood of Mexico City with cooler-than-you crowds of locals at the inviting lobby bar and lounge, La Modern French Brasserie and the downstairs “speakeasy” bar/club. But the neighborhood patrons (eventually) go home which means they miss out on the rooms at Hotel Brick. Despite the long, rich history of the building and the remains of many architectural details the rooms have a modern loft/pied-a-terre look and feel–somehow hip and homey at the same time. Like the neighborhood, Hotel Brick proudly displayed its own unique style and personality right off the bat–an unusual feat for a new hotel.

 

Best hotel room bathroom: Luscious beauty products, fluffy towels and extravagant shower heads are standard bathroom issue at luxury hotels. But nothing about Las Alcobas in Mexico City is standard issue that that goes double in the bathroom where we were delighted (and a bit alarmed) to find a Toto toilet which has a heated seat, well-aimed cleaning jets and even a blow dryer for your bum. The shower (which has THREE different shower heads) is constructed so that the drain is hidden along one edge, eliminating the need to stand on the drain while showering. The jetted tub automatically flushes and cleans its own jets after each use. Guests are offered a choice of full-size, hand-made, all-natural soaps upon arrival. Did we mention that the bathroom lighting is perfect too?

 

Best S&M hotel: While walking around Playa del Carmen in Yucatan State, Mexico something caught our eye. Just off  the 5th Avenue pedestrian promenade we spotted a huge building that looked like condos or apartments. On closer inspection it turned out to be a hotel, but not just any hotel. There were mannequins posed on many of the balconies and thousands of red light bulbs illuminated the interior and the exterior. This is Hotel Reina Roja (which means red queen in Spanish) which is owned and designed by an architect from Mexico City. He calls the Reina Roja “Mexican emergent architecture theme hotel” and that about sums it up if your theme involves bondage. Red and black dominate.  The hallways on all floors leading to the rooms are locked and have been turned into quasi-cages with wire fencing (to keep “them” out or to keep us in?). Half-clad mannequins are everywhere–in the restaurant, on balconies, in a cage in the lobby. The maids brush the mannequins’ wigs daily and the staff moves them around and poses them for best effect. It’s equal parts sexy and creepy.

Reina-Roja Hotel

 


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