Flightseeing Over the Nazca Lines – Nazca, Peru

People travel to the town of Nazca (spelled Nasca in Peru) to see the famous Nazca Lines and marvel at their mass (up to 1,200 feet / 370 meters long) and their mystery (why were they made and who was meant to see them?). Here’s what we saw (and wondered) during our flightseeing tour to see the Nazca Lines from the air.

Nazca lines hummingbird colibri picafloe

The Hummingbird – 305 feet (93 meters) long

To fly or not to fly?

We were surprised when some fellow long-term travelers said they thought flying over the Nazca Lines, which were made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, wasn’t necessary. True, there are a few viewing platforms over a few of the lines around Nazca (more about them in our next post about exploring the Nazca Ines on the ground), but the Nazca Lines are so enormous that they’re virtually impossible to see except from the air.

For example, despite existing in the desert for hundreds and hundreds of years (most researchers agree that the glyphs were made by Nazca people between 500 BC and 500 AD), yet the lines and designs weren’t really discovered by modern science until someone spotted them from a plane.

We decided to fly.

Nazca lines flightseeing

The Cesna 206 that took us on our flightseeing tur over the Nazca Lines in Peru with Alas Peruana.

Flightseeing tour over the Nazca Lines

There are many fight tour companies in Nazca. Alas Peruanas took us up for their 30 minute flight (US$80 per person) to view 13 different figures in a Cesna 206 four passenger plane with a pilot and co-pilot. All passengers got headphones to cut out some of the engine noise and allow us to hear the running commentary about the shapes we would be seeing (in Spanish) from the pilots.

Spider Nazca lines araña

The Spider – 151 feet (46 meters) long

These tourist flights travel in a set circuit over an area with a high concentration of geoglyphs (man-made designs in the earth). To ensure that everyone gets a good look at each of the images, the planes dip their wings on one side, then circle the glyph and dip their wings on the other side.

Nazca lines from above flight

The Nazca Lines include about 700 straight line formations and 300 geometric shapes, human forms or animal forms with more being discovered all the time.

Seeing the glyphs, including The Hummingbird, The Spider, The Tree, The Dog, The Monkey, The Flamingo, The Parrot, The Astronaut, The Frigatebird, The Hands, The Condor, The Baby Condor and The Whale, in their entirety was undeniably powerful.

Nazca lines flightseeing landing

Coming in for a landing after our 30 minute flight over the Nazca Lines.

After half an hour of dipping and circling, we were ready to be on solid ground. Small shops selling sodas at the airport do a brisk business to travelers (including us) anxious to settle wobbly post-flight stomachs.

Frigate bird, Flamingo Nazca lines

The Frigatebird (bottom) and The Flamingo which is 984 feet (300 meters) long but is still hard to see.

Wear sunscreen and sunglasses for the flight and you must show your passport before boarding. Flights are often delayed if it’s cloudy or foggy (we waited for more than an hour for our take off), so be prepared to wait. Also, there’s also a 25 PEN (US$10) airport tax that’s not included in the price you pay the tour company.

flying over the Nazca lines

The skies about the Nazca Lines are crowded. Note the plane under ours in the lower portion of this shot we took as we flew over The Frigatebird, The Flamingo, and The Parrot.

Naza Lines flightseeing safety

While we felt safe during our flight, on any given day there are a lot of small planes in the air flying close and low and accidents do happen. Many, many people have died. The worst year was 1986 when 28 tourist aircraft crashed into the Nazca Desert, killing 130 people.

Safety and oversight have improved since the cowboy days pre-1999. However in 2016, there were still reportedly 19 tourists death in Nazca Lines flightseeing accidents.

Monkey Nazca Lines

The Monkey – 295 feet (90 meters) long

Get a glimpse of the Nazca Lines from the air in the video we shot from our flightseeing tour, below.

Nazca Lines mysteries

Seeing some of the glyphs from the air only amplified our questions about them: How were the Nazca Lines made? And why? Many people far smarter than us have been pondering those questions for a very long time.

Condor Nazca Lines

The Condor – 443 feet (135 meters) long

The easiest question to answer is about how the glyphs around Nazca were made. There are about 700 glyphs composed of straight lines plus another 300 or so that depict geometric shapes and stylized animals. Researchers say dark pebbles, which exist naturally on the surface of the desert, were removed to reveal the light-colored sand beneath, thus creating shapes in the ground (which is the basic definition of a geoglyph).

Astronaut Nazca Lines

The Astronaut – 115 feet (35 meters) long

Crude surveying tools, like wooden stakes, have been found around the glyphs hinting at how the precise designs and straight lines might have been mapped out and achieved.

Nazca Lines Whale ballena

The Whale – 213 feet (65 meters) long

That leaves the trickiest question of all: Why were the glyphs made and who was meant to see them?

The lines were created long, long before humans had the ability to travel through the air so the Nazca people may never have seen the images in their entirety since many of the hills in the area aren’t high enough to provide a vantage point. Some theorize that the Nazca made the designs for their Gods to see. Others think the designs might make up some sort of astrological map used by the Nazca people. Or perhaps the glyphs marked ceremonial areas.

Nazca lines Parrot loro

The Parrot – 213 feet (65 meters) long

Also, aliens. You can’t have a proper archaeological mystery without someone suggesting that aliens were involved. Recent controversial alien theories in Nazca inspired this necessary-read in The Atlantic.

Nazca lines baby condor or dinosaur

Baby Condor – 115 feet (35 meters) long

Frigate bird nazca lines

The Frigatebird – 443 feet (135 meters) long

The Nazca Lines under threat

New glyphs are still being discovered around Nazca and despite protections, all of the glyphs are still threatened.

When the PanAm Highway was built it bisected a huge glyph called The Iguana and we can’t help but wonder what the Nazca spirits (or the aliens) think about this new never-ending line in the midst of their own. Wind continues to erode the glyphs and humans are still doing damage as well. In 2014 Greenpeace, for example, apologized for damage done to The Hummingbird glyph by activists who unintentionally walked over it to install a message about climate change.

flying over nazca lines tree, hands, iguana observation tower

The observation tower where you can look down on The Tree (213 feet/65 meters long) and The Hands (213 feet/65 meters long). You can also see the PanAm highway bisecting The Iguana.

Random Nazca lines flower spiral

Random Nazca Lines that we liked…

Where to sleep in Nazca

It must be said that the dusty, ramshackle town of Nazca is pretty grim, but thousands of travelers come anyway to see those famous lines. That means there are a lot of hotels in town from extremely basic hostels to higher-end offerings catering to organized tour groups.

Somewhere in the middle is B Hotel Nasca Suites (doubles around US$40). Opened in 2017, this place is right across the highway from the airport (convenient for morning flight seeing) but about a mile from town. There’s a pool and full breakfast included, along with Wi-Fi, and more style than most mid-range places in Nazca.

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Border Crossing 101: Arica, Chile to Tacna, Peru

It’s official: the very popular and very busy border crossing from Arica, Chile to Tacna, Peru was the fastest border crossing on our road trip so far. Border crossing 101 travel tips are below and we hope you breeze through too.


Welcome to Peru


From: Arica, Chile

To: Tacna, Peru

Date: October 17, 2017

Lay of the land: We’ve crossed this border numerous times but this time we were pleased to see that border formalities have recently been consolidated into one building for Peru and Chile.

Elapsed time: An unbelievable 35 minutes from start to finish (10 am to 10:35 am). This is a record for us and one we doubt we’ll be able to improve upon, though we live in hope. It took about 15 minutes to exit Chile because we didn’t have the quadruplet forms needed and it took a minute to find the forms and fill them out. It took about 5 minutes to cancel our Chile temporary import permit (TIP). It took a further 5 minutes to get our TIP for Peru, which is now done in an efficient little office on the side of the building where entry stamps are given (look for the sign that says CIT).

Number of days given: 90 for us and 90 for our truck


Arica, Chile - Tacna, Peru border crossing

This is the building on the Arica, Chile side of the border where you used to stamp out of Chile before moving forward to the next building where Peruvian formalities were done. Now formalities for both countries are done in what was Peru’s facility and this building is used by both countries to process people leaving Peru and entering Chile.


Fees: None

Vehicle insurance needed: You must have SOAT coverage to drive in Peru and transit cops will ask to see it. You can purchase SOAT in Tacna which is about 25 miles (40 km) from the border. When we were in Argentina we bought SOAT coverage that covers us in multiple countries, including Peru, so we were all set.

Where to fill up: Fuel is marginally cheaper in Arica, Chile than it is in Tacna, Peru.

Need to know: You need four forms to cross from Chile into Peru (each is stamped and retained at a different stage of the process). You used to have to pay for these forms at this border, for reasons that remained a mystery, but the forms are now free in the new combined-formalities immigration building. Luggage is x-rayed at this border. Aduana (customs) officials asked us to x-ray the bags in the cab of our truck and two duffel bags from the back but didn’t seem to care about any of the other many bags and bins in the back of our truck. They did confiscate a banana. No fruits and vegetables are allowed to cross.

Also, be aware that the time changes between Peru and Chile from mid August to mid May (we gained two hours when we crossed into Peru from Chile in October, for example) because Chile is one of the few South American countries which observes Daylight Savings Time. So factor that in. 

If you’re driving across the border in a non-Peruvian vehicle be aware that officials in Peru are very serious about their time limits, as they should be. Technically speaking, officials can confiscate your vehicle if you overstay its temporary importation permit. We found this out the hard way during a previous crossing when two blowouts on the highways delayed us. When we tried to cross 24 hours after our truck permit expired we were sent back to Tacna and told to visit the customs office. We spent  two days there presenting evidence of the blowouts, filling out forms in Spanish, and begging to be forgiven, which we ultimately were. The experience helped inspire this slightly snarky post about run ins at the border.

Tacna travel tip

If you cross late and need to spend the night in Tacna (bummer), Hotel Siglo 21 is a good bed. Around 65 PEN or about US$20 got us a private double with a bathroom, decent Wi-Fi, and ample parking plus breakfast. Not in the center, but close enough is Hotel Le Prince which is a bit pricier but still a bargain if you want something that’s trying hard to be hip and has a Netflix enabled TV. There’s a sister Le Prince hotel in Arica, Chile too.

Duty free: No

Overall border rating: Any border we can cross in 35 minutes gets an A+ from us.


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Foods of Peru and What to Eat at Mistura – Lima, Peru

Some consider the annual Mistura event in Lima, Peru to be the most important food festival in South America. We finally attended for the chance to check out foods from across the country. Here’s our guide to foods of Peru and what to eat at Mistura.

Chancho al Palo Oeru Mistura

Mistura organizers told us that mistura is a word that dates back to the Viceroyalty of Peru in the 1500s when it was used to refer to a mixed bouquet of flowers distributed during special occasions. Today the word basically means mixed.

To picture what the 10 day Mistura event is all about imagine a national fair with all the non-food elements stripped away — no rides, no carney games, no livestock exhibits. This leaves just the most beloved traditional foods, ingredients, and techniques from every corner of the country – everything mixed together.

Food is a powerful thing. Many Lima natives have family roots that go back to some other place in Peru and most of the people we saw at Mistura seemed to be there to get their annual fix of foods they miss from “home.” Though the numbers of vendors and attendees have been declining in recent years, there were still 302,139 attendees and 180 food vendors at this year’s 10th anniversary Mistura event which was themed Neighborhood Flavor.

That makes Mistura the perfect opportunity to get to know the most iconic foods from around Peru all in one place. 

The foods of Peru and what to eat at Mistura

Anticucho is a Quechua (a pre-Colombian Andean language that’s still spoken in Peru) word for stewed meat. However, the word now refers to a beloved street snack of sliced marinated beef heart grilled on a skewer. We love them and our one big regret from Mistura 2017 is that we were too full to try the anticuchos made from alpaca heart.

Peru Anticuchos Peruanos

Ceviche (spelled cebiche in Spanish) is arguably the most famous dish in Peru and is essentially made by marinating fish or seafood in citrus. Peru has many, many variations on this theme including a version in the Andes that’s made from bean-like seeds. Below is a traditional fish ceviche with chicharron de pescado (fried fish pieces) in a marinade made with citrus and gooseberry-like uchuvas (left) and a trout ceviche (right). Peruvian ceviche is nearly always served with creamy camote (sweet potato) and crunchy cancha salada (corn nuts).

Ceviche Peru Mistura

Causa, which dates back to pre-Columbian times, is a uniquely Peruvian dish which we have not seen in any other Latin country (so far). The potato comes from Peru where more than 3,000 varieties are grown and this dish, made with mashed potato and aji amarillo (yellow chile) layered with almost anything filling you like, makes the most of Peruvian potatoes. Below is are two fancy causas, one (left) made with pulpo (octopus), and a vegetarian causa (right) made with quinoa, mushrooms, and a passion fruit sauce.

Peruvian causa

Rocoto relleno is a popular dish that originated in the city of Arequipa where Karen recently learned to make the dish at Zingaro Restaurant in Arequipa. It’s a Peruvian variation on a stuffed pepper made with the beloved rocoto pepper which is usually filled with seasoned ground beef before cheese and a bechamel-like sauce is added. 

Rocoto relleno

Tamales (left) are enjoyed throughout Latin America and are made from a corn flour steamed in a corn husk, often containing a piece of meat and spices. Juanes (right) come from the Peruvian jungle. Instead of corn, they’re made with rice which contains  meat and a piece of hard-boiled egg all wrapped in a bijao (heliconia) leaf then steamed.

Tamales and Janes Amazonian Peru

Sánguches (sandwiches) are particularly popular in Lima where they are usually made with sliced pork, either jamon del pais (country ham), jamon norte (similar to a US-style Virginia ham), or chancho asado (grilled pork) like the one below being made by employees of a popular chain called Sanguchería El Chinito.

Soups are important throughout Latin America. In Peru, favorites include chupe de camarones (left) which is a shrimp soup, parihuela (right), another style of seafood soup, and sancochado (bottom) which is made with corn, potato, yucca, carrots, cabbage, and meat.

Chupe de camarones and Parihuela Peru

Sancochado de Atano Peru

Chifa is a synthesis of Cantonese cooking using Peruvian ingredients. Its most emblimatic dish is Chaufa, think of it as Peruvian fried rice which can be simple, or elaborate like the chaufa con mariscos (seafood fried rice) below.

Chaufa Mariscos Mistura Peru

Peru is a relatively large country and 60% of it is covered by the Amazon, so it’s no surprise there is a unique cuisine de la selva (jungle cuisine) incorporating the unique ingredients found there. Juanes (which we discussed earlier in this post) are one example. Tacachos, balls of mashed plantain usually containing chicharron (fried meaty pork skin) or cecina which is wonderful smoked pork which tastes like bacon but with less fat. The plate on the right has two tacachos made with cecina along with a chorizo and a piece of cecina on the side. On the left is chaufa Amazonica, a version of chaufa incorporating Amazonian ingredients like cecina, chorizo, and plantains.

Chaufa Amazonica and Tacacho cecina Peruvian Amazon food

Traditional Peruvian meat dishes include puca picante (right), a traditional dish that comes from Ayacucho. Puca means red in Quechua and picante means spicy in Spanish, so the name literally means “spicy red. Here it’s served with chicharron (fried meaty pork skin). Cuchimanka or cuchi kanka (left) means roast pork in Quechua. Here it’s served with habas (fava beans) and a potato with cheese.

Chuchmanca and Puca Picante Peru

Chuchmanca and Puca Picante Peru

Another traditional Peruvian meat dish is cabrito al horno (left) which is oven roasted baby goat. Arroz con pato (rice with duck) is another beloved dish, particularly in northern Peru (right).

Cabrito al horno and arroz con Pato Peru

The grill area (brasas) at Mistura is enormous and popular. Here you can find chancho a la palo (pictured at the top of this post) which is a whole pig splayed out and cooked over an open fire. Chancho al cilindro is pork grilled in a barrel (below).

Chancho a la Cylindro y Chanch Asado Peru Mistura

Cuy a la palo is guinea pig cooked on a skewer over a fire (below). The longest line we saw at Mistura was for cuy a la palo and cuy was teh most sold item at Mistura this year. Cuy a la palo Mistura Peru Guinea Pig

Caja China is pork cooked under coals placed in a box. Pachamanca (from the Quechua words for earth and pot, pictured bottom left) uses an Incan form of cooking with meat and potatoes placed in the ground and covered with hot stones  (left). Kankachos (right) is seasoned lamb wrapped in a fabric and cooked in a clay oven.  Pachamanka and Kankachos Peru

Sweets and desserts are a big deal throughout Latin America. Peru offers picarones (fried rings of dough topped with sauce – like a thin, crisp donut), yucitas (fried yucca flour like a beignet), arroz con leche (rice pudding in many forms), turrones, alfajores (similar to their more famous cousins from Argentina), and lots of types of helados (ice cream) including versions made with quinoa and one made with cheese.

Peruvian dulces - picarones yucitas, arroz con lecje, turrones, alfajores, helados

You can also drink your dessert in Peru. Beloved sweet beverages include chicha morada (left) and emoliente (right).

Chicha Morada and Emoliente Peru

Mistura miscellaneous

In addition to the vendors selling specific dishes, Mistura also includes a large market area where people bring produce and ingredients from around Peru.

Fresh food, fruit and vegetables at Mercado Mistura

We bought blueberries from Canete, sausage from Cajamarca, olives from Tacna, and chocolate from Masano. There was also tempting produce, bread, coffee, potatoes (some varieties we’d never seen before) and much more.

Chocolate, Coffee, salt, hot sauce, honey at Mercado Mistura

In recent years, as Peru’s craft beer scene has exploded (we know of at least 30 individual beer makers in Peru right now), a craft beer area has been added to Mistura as well. This year 19 artisanal breweries offered 30 different beers on tap to an eager crowd. A standout was the lemongrass wheat beer being made by Teach.

Cervaza Artesanal Peru Mistura

Of course Peru’s national liquor, pisco, is represented. We like pisco, but we’re not big fans of the famous pisco sour cocktail which is usually too sweet for us. We did see the biggest pisco sour ever (below) which must have been a half gallon (2 liters).

Salon de Posco Peru Mistura

Mistura travel tips

Wear a hat and sunscreen. Mistura is mostly outside and on busy days shaded tables can be hard to find.

Wear walking shoes. This event is spread over a large area. Wheelchairs are available for those with mobility issues.

Andean girl with pig hat Mistura Peru

This woman was selling chancho al palo. Note the pig hat under her traditional Andean hat.

Tickets are 17 PEN (about US$5.25) on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays and 26 PEN (about US$8) on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Children’s tickets are about half price. Of course, the festival is busiest on weekends.

Most vendors offer two portion sizes for 8 PEN (about US$2.50) and 16 PEN (about US$5). We recommend getting the small size so that you are able to try more dishes.

One bummer is the amount of plastic (plates, cups, forks, etc) that is thrown away during Mistura…

Live music and traditional dancing is part of Mistura as well.

Port-a-potties were meticulously cleaned with paper and soap always available.

Mustura tickets

There are no ATMs within the Mistura grounds so bring cash and credit cards. Vendors in the market area accept cash only. To buy the tickets which you use to purchase dishes you can use cash or credit cards.

Wear layers. Lima weather can go from sunny and hot to foggy and cold.

There are many areas where you can use cash or your credit card to get tickets for food. If one is busy, move on to another.

Many of the vendors will give you a taste before you buy.

Pepto Bism Bismutol Peruol

Mistura on the move

Peru’s Mistura food festival has become so big that the governing organization, Apega, is planning to expand into other countries. They’ve reportedly got Santiago, Chile, Cordova, Argentina, Bogotá, Colombia, Miami, and New York in their sights.


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A Watery Wonderland – Bonito, Brazil

Bonito would be just another sleepy town in the southern Pantanal region of Brazil if it weren’t surrounded by rivers of crystal clear spring-fed water which are home to so many docile (and delicious) fish that it seems you might be able to walk on water after all. Here’s our travel guide to the watery wonderland in Bonito, Brazil including floating, swimming, snorkeling, and diving (plus a few dry adventures too).

Municipal Swimming Area Bonito, Brazil

The Municipal Swimming Area is the closest and cheapest way to enjoy the crystal clear water that Bonito, Brazil is famous for.

Bonito started out as a rural collection of enormous farms (called fazendas in Portuguese). Slowly, landowners realized that the rivers and waterways on their land were not like other rivers. In Bonito, the water is supernaturally clear. So clear that it almost creates an optical illusion, as if you’re looking at a mirror or just thin air, not water.

When tourists started coming to see the natural beauty of the place some landowners stopped farming and created an infrastructure to make it easier for visitors to access rivers and waterfalls and Bonito’s tourism industry began.

Estancia Mimosa waterfall Bonito, Brazil

One of eight waterfalls on the hiking and swimming circuit at Estancia Mimosa.

Today, there are dozens of tour agencies selling dozens of tours and those in the business have even begun to self-regulate with visitor caps and other measures meant to limit the human impact on their amazing waterways.

Red & Green Macaw, Buraca das Araras - Bonito, Brazil

A red and green macaw hanging out in the enormous Buraco das Araras crater.

What to do in Bonito, Brazil

It’s (almost) all about getting wet in Bonito. Most sites are a 30-60 minute drive from town except for the Municipal Swimming area (Balenario Municipal) which is right on the outskirts of Bonito. That’s where we started (30 BRL entry, about US$9.50 per person, buy a voucher at any tour operator in town or at the entrance to the swimming area). This is the cheapest and easiest way to enjoy the amazing water in Bonito and no guide is required.

Balenario Municipal Bonito, Brazil

The Municipal Swimming Area in Bonito is very popular, especially on weekends.

Floating Rio Formosa Bonito, Brazil

Yes, the water really is that clear in the Formosa River around which Bonito’s Municipal Swimming Area is built.

The Municipal Swimming area accesses the spring-fed Formosa River which flows through a series of wide, deep swimming areas connected by sections of river which you can float down. The water was full of big fish too which were fun (and disconcerting) to swim with.

There are surprisingly good outdoor restaurants too. We got great chicken Milanese with potatoes, salad, and rice for 18 BRL (about US$5.75). Cold beer is available too for 5 BRL (about US$1.50). Other facilities include a large parking area, changing rooms, and bathrooms. It gets very busy with locals on weekends.

Rio da Prata is one of the most popular destinations in Bonito and for good reason: it’s the longest continuous snorkeling stretch in the region at more than a mile (2 km). The road from Bonito to Rio da Prata is mostly paved but allow about an hour to reach the main complex. From there you take a short drive in an open-air vehicle, then walk along a 1 mile (2 km) trail for about 30 minutes to reach the river which is full of fish including many golden dorado.

Rio da Prata snorkeling - Bonito, Brazil

A flashy golden dorado, and other species of fish, in the Rio da Prata.

As we floated downstream in the swift current we also saw monkeys in branches over the river as we passed under them which was a unique perspective. Facilities at the main complex, where you start and finish, include (weak) WiFi, shaded seating, bathrooms, showers, lockers, and an area full of hammocks.

Parrots and Macaws feeding Rio da Prata - Bonito, Brazil

Visitors who arrive to Rio da Prata in the morning have the best chance of seeing the most species of birds, like these wild parrots and macaws who come to the feeder.

Many macaws, parrots, ibis, jays, and other birds congregate at the feeders and in the trees around the complex (especially in the morning). Some staff members speak some English and neoprene booties, short wet suits, and masks and snorkels are provided. Horseback riding is also available. Lunch is a huge buffet of traditional favorites, including some vegetarian options, cooked over a wood fire and served in a rustic kitchen. To help control environmental impact, there’s a self-imposed limit of 150 people per day at Rio da Prata.

waterfall Estancia Mimosa - Bonito, Brazil

Waterfalls in the spring-fed Mimosa River are the main attraction at Estancia Mimosa.

waterfall swimming Estancia Mimosa - Bonito, Brazil

Eric swimming in a waterfall in the spring-fed river at Estancia Mimosa near Bonito.

Estancia Mimosa is about 30 minutes from  Bonito and the main attraction on this farm turned nature reserve is a section of river that is punctuated by a series of eight waterfalls. Opened to tourists in 1999, this place now has a trail (about 2 miles or 3.2 km) which connects eight waterfalls where wooden platforms and stairs make getting into the water easy. Or you can just jump.

One particularly deep natural pool has a platform 20 feet (6 meters) above it. Horseback riding and bird watching (claim 250 species have been seen on the property) are also offered. A life jacket and a guide are included along with a massive post adventure lunch buffet. Neoprene booties, which you can walk in and swim in, are available for rent. Or just wear a sturdy pair of flip-flops or Crocs. 

SCUBA Lagoa Misteriosa

Eric after his dive in the Lagoa Misteriosa flooded sink hole.

Lagoa Misteriosa offers something entirely different: SCUBA diving in a flooded sinkhole that is 246 feet (75 meters) deep. The water is clearest between April and October. During the rest of the year plankton makes the water murky. Our dive master, Joao, told us that the water was never murky until local farmers began using pesticides. We were there when the water was murky, which meant Eric and Joao had to dive deeper in search of clearer water (Karen didn’t dive because she was still healing from emergency surgery in Campo Grande to remove her appendix).

When conditions are murky divers must have advanced level certification or higher. In clear water conditions basic open water certification is enough. To help control environmental impact only 28 divers per day are allowed in clear conditions. In murky conditions, just four divers a day are allowed. Honestly, visibility was really poor in the murky conditions so it’s worth planning to be there between April and October for the spectacularly clear water. SCUBA gear is provided.

SCUBA Lagoa Misteriosa - Bonito, Brazil

Eric diving in the flooded sink hole at Lagoa Misteriosa – as you can see, it’s worth planning to be there in the months when the water is clear.

Let’s say you want to stay dry…

Not every adventure in Bonito takes place in the water. For example, you will stay perfectly dry during a visit to Buraco das Araras (65 BRL or about US$20 per person including a mandatory guide, 7 am to 5 pm) where a loop trail around a sinkhole provides ample vantage points for viewing the resident red and green and red and blue macaws.

Red & Green Macaw, Buraca das Araras - Bonito, Brazil

A pair of red and green macaws at Buraco das Araras near Bonito.

Allow about an hour to finish the guided walk and you must wear closed shoes (no flip flops or sandals). We saw lots of macaws and the birds come and go and make a racket all day long as they fly into and out of the sinkhole which 330 feet (100 meters) deep and about 1,650 feet (500 meters) around – large enough to have a small forest growing inside it.

Buraca das Araras - Bonito, Brazil

A viewing platform over the Buraco das Araras.

More hardcore adventure tourism is beginning to take off in Bontio as well. The rappel from a steel platform at Boca da Onca, for example, is said to be the highest in Brazil. There are zip lines on offer and cave adventures too.

Where to sleep in Bonito, Brazil

We stayed at Pousada Galeria Artes where owner Maria Pires has created a well-run oasis using her natural Brazilian hospitality and experiences gained when she lived in Europe (including great English skills). Located about 10 blocks from the center of Bonito, the hotel has a big and peaceful central garden that’s full of mango trees, a pool, a parking area, and a range of very comfortable rooms in two separate buildings. Breakfast is amazing as is Maria who (literally) saved Karen’s life when her appendix needed to be removed.

Maria’s new place, Hotel Fazenda Beija Flor, just opened and offers seven rooms, plenty of hammocks, and a country house feeling that invokes old Bonito. This is the place to go if you’re a bird watcher (more than 100 species have been spotted) or orchid lover. There’s also a small beekeeping and honey producing operation on the property which is just outside of town.

Pousada Muito Bonito

Pousada Muito Bonito in Bonito, Brazil.

We also spent a few nights at Pousada Muito Bonito which is centrally located. Opened in 1994, it was one of the first hotels in Bonito. It’s been renovated and upgraded through the years but it’s still owned by the same family. There’s a parking area, a small pool (added in 2016), and small but comfortable rooms. In addition to the area’s natural beauty, the owners also want to promote the area’s culture, including the indigenous groups that once thrived in the area. For example, check out the tiles around the pool, above, which pay homage to the iconography in the art of the Kadiweu people. 

No matter which accommodation you pick, be aware that Bonito gets very busy during holidays and weekends, so make reservations during those times.

Where to eat in Bonito, Brazil

Bonito Beer Cervejas Especiais opened in late 2016 in a small, stylish space about a half block off the main plaza. They’ve got dozens of craft beers, mostly from Brazil. Communal wooden tables encourage conversation and there are also tables on the sidewalk outside. Snacks, including a charcuterie plate, are also available.

For lunch, head to the simple but clean and welcoming Jacquie restaurant also near the main plaza. Lunch buffet is 25 BRL (about US$7.80) and includes a wide range of fresh food with plenty of vegetarian options and nice desserts.

Jacquie’s sister runs Juanita Restaurante which is known for heaping platters of grilled whole fish in various sizes cooked in capers. Meant for sharing, the platters also include rice, potatoes, and vegetables. The food is delicious and reasonably priced and the outdoor tables are a breezy place for a beer.

Animal phone booths - Bonito, MS, Brazil

Karen hates talking on the phone unless it’s an oversized version of a jungle animal.

The best way to imagine a Brazilian pastel is to picture a huge, rectangular fried wonton with a filling. At Pastel Bonito they whip up a wide-range of pastels (5 BRL to 15 BRL or about US$1.50 to US$4.75) including one filled with caiman.

One more travel tip…

To get the most out of Bonito you really need a vehicle. Public transportation doesn’t really service the sights you want to see and tour companies offer van transport as part of their group tours, but they can be pricey. You may have read that there is no way to rent a car in Bonito, but that’s not correct. You can rent a car in Bonito through Localiza and Unidas in Bonito.

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Where We’ve Been: October 2017 Road Trip Driving Route in Bolivia, Chile & Peru

In October 2017 we were ready to leave Bolivia and re-enter Peru. Then we checked our math and discovered a calculation error which meant we would need to briefly enter Chile before entering Peru. Whoops. This means that we visited three countries and crossed two borders in October. In total, we drove 1,462 miles (2,353 km) in Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, including a massive chunk in just seven long days. Here’s out October 2017 road trip driving route.

driving Isluga Volcano National Park

Where we’ve been: October 2017 road trip in Bolivia, Chile, and Peru

We began the month in La Paz, Bolivia where our allotted 90 days were coming to an end on October 7. We had planned to leave Bolivia and re-enter Peru near Lake Titicaca so that we could drive to Lima via the most direct route. However, just 48 hours before our scheduled departure from Bolivia, we realized we didn’t do our math properly and we would not be able to re-enter Peru for another week. So: we had to leave Bolivia but we weren’t yet allowed to enter Peru. What to do? Head to Chile, of course.

Polloquere Hotspings Vicunas National reserve, Chile

So we changed plans entirely and drove to the border at Pisiga, Bolivia to enter Colchane, Chile. This silver lining? This sudden detour allowed us to explore a remote corner of Chile that we missed when we were there at the beginning of the year. So, from Colchane we were off on an epic 2-day off-road drive through Isluga National Park (named for its active volcano), Las Vicuñas National Reserve (with its giant salt flat, elegant vicuñas, flamboyant flamingos, and natural hot springs), and Lauca National Park before reaching pavement again in Putre, Chile.

Las Vicunas National Reserve, Chile

From Putre we drove to the city of Arica on the coast, returning to sea level for the first time since June. After passing a bit more than a week in Arica we were able to re-enter Peru and resume our original plan, albeit with a much longer drive to Lima from the Chile border.

After two and a half long days of driving up the coast, we arrived in Lima where we settled in for two months to catch up on work. We won’t be moving again until the beginning of the year so there won’t be a November or December “Where We’ve Been” post… unless of course, our plans change again.

Our complete road trip driving route map for September 2017 is below:

And don’t miss the chance to see what we saw out there on the road in Bolivia, Chile, and Peru in October of 2017 in our drive-lapse video, below. It was, as always, shot by our Brinno camera which is attached to our dashboard.


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Is This the Most Amazing Amazon? – Tambopata National Reserve, Peru

We’ve explored many parts of the Amazon including along the Napo River and Yasuni National Park in Ecuador, in Western Brazil near Manaus, in the Tena area of Ecuador, in northern Peru around Iquitos, and in the Cuyabeno area of Ecuador. However, the Amazon in the Tambopata National Reserve in southern Peru blew us away (it helped that we saw a young puma during a night walk in the jungle). So, is this the most amazing Amazon? 

Rainforest Expeditions - Tambopata, Peru

Karen exploring more of the Amazon in and around the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru.

Into the Amazon in the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru

The Tambopata National Reserve protects a wide range of habitats which are home to an enormous number of species including a thousand types of butterflies, 600 species of birds and mammals galore. And because the reserve, which covers more than 1,000 square miles (2,600 square km), is at the foot of the Andes range it has rich soil as well so plants and trees thrive.

Gold mining, Tambopata River, Peru

Just one of the illegal gold panning operations we saw.

Despite its status as a national reserve, there are environmental threats in the area. Chief among them are illegal small-scale gold extraction operations. We saw many of them on the rivers in the reserve where miners cut down trees and kill animals. They also contaminate the water with mercury from the panning process. The water already has such high levels of mercury that some people we met only eat fish from fish farms, never from the rivers.

Capybara - Tambopata reserve

A capybara and friend on the banks of the Tambopata River.

Exploring the Tambopata National Reserve with Rainforest Expeditions

There are more than 20 lodges in the Tambopata area. We spent our time at lodges operated by Rainforest Expeditions, in part because we’re into the company’s legacy of research and conservation. They operate three individual lodges, plus a private Amazon Villa luxury bungalow, in various areas in and around the reserve and they all do an artful job of combining a jungle experience with many more comforts than you’d expect.

Scarlet Macaw, Tambopata Macaw Project - Rainforest Expeditions

A scarlet macaw at the Tambopata Research Center (TRC) which was opened as the base for the Tambopata Macaw Project which continues its conservation efforts funded, in part, by tourism to the TRC lodge.

Tambopata Macaw Project - Tambopata Research Center

Macaw populations are slowly growing thanks to ongoing conservation efforts and we saw dozens of them while we were at the Tambopata Research Center lodge, operated by Rainforest Expeditions.

The original lodge is the Tambopata Research Center (TRC) which is the base for the Tambopata Macaw Project which was set up in 1989 to study and conserve macaw populations in association with Texas A&M University. Researchers estimate that there were only about 500 macaws in the area when their research, nest building, and conservation efforts started. Tourism was developed to fund the science and today, more than 20 years since conservation began, there are more than 5,000 macaws in the area along with about 2,000 travelers who visit the TRC lodge each year.

Traveling up Tambopata river - Tambopata research center

Traveling on the Tambopata River.

The TRC is the most remote facility operated by Rainforest Expeditions and requires a seven-hour boat ride (each way) on the Tambopata River from Puerto Maldonado, though most travelers break up that journey with overnight stays at closer lodges operated by Rainforest Expeditions along the way.

The payoff for the long journey is the fact that the TRC lodge is actually inside the reserve. This helps explain why 156 visitors saw a jaguar near TRC in 2016. The lodge is simple but comfortable with open-sided sitting areas and dining room and a range of rooms from with private bathrooms, hot water, electricity during certain hours of the day, and Wi-Fi. New Suites and Deluxe Suites are larger and have ceiling fans. The Deluxe Suites also have a furnished outdoor patio with an outdoor tub so you can soak in the jungle. It’s almost too much luxury. Almost.

Scarlet Macaw, Tambopata Macaw Project

A wild (but habituated) scarlet macaw helps itself to an unguarded breakfast at the TRC lodge.

And, of course, there are the macaws which seemed to be everywhere, including inside our room which, like most of the rooms at Rainforest Expeditions lodges, had only three walls. The idea is that people come to the Amazon to be in the jungle, not in their rooms so every effort is made to bring the outside in. But don’t worry. As we’ve seen before, in a balanced natural environment insects are usually not an overwhelming problem and good nets over the beds ensure peaceful sleep. FYI: peak season for the macaws is January and February when they’re nesting. 

Chuncho clay lick Tambopata Research Center

Rainy conditions caused a quiet day a the famous Chuncho clay lick, attracting just a few blue-headed parrots and even fewer chestnut-fronted macaws.

On the way out to the TRC lodge our boat stopped at the famous riverside Chuncho clay lick which routinely attracts hundreds of macaws, parrots, and parakeets. The birds (and some mammals too) come because their natural diet contains natural toxins which are neutralized by components in the clay found here.

Unfortunately, it started to rain as we arrived at the clay lick and though we were all willing to get drenched, the birds were not and the clay lick was nearly empty with just a handful of blue-headed parrots and five chestnut-fronted macaws. FYI: the driest season in the region is June to October, but we were there in September and it was far from dry.

Posada Amazonas Rainforest expeditions Tambopata reserve

A three-walled room at Posada Amazonas Lodge operated by Rainforest Expeditions.

With tourism demand increasing, Rainforest Expeditions began looking for closer (but still wild) areas in which to build new lodges and the company eventually worked with a local community to create Posada Amazonas, their second lodge. Finally, Refugio Amazonas was built.

Red howler monkey Tambopata

Red howler monkeys in the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru.

Black-faced spider monkey Tambopata

A black-faced spider monkey in the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru.

Saddleback Tamarin Tambopata

A saddleback tamarin outside our room at Posada Amazonas near the Tambopata National Reserve in Peru.

Located just 3.5 hours by boat (each way) from Puerto Maldonado, Posada Amazonas is much closer but still surrounded by nature on a 495 acre (200 hectare) private reserve adjacent to the Tambopata National Reserve.

This lodge is even more comfortable than the TRC lodge. Rooms, which are also missing one wall, per Rainforest Expeditions’ immersive Amazon approach, have private bathrooms with hot water and there’s electricity until 10 pm. There’s also a spa, Peruvian craft beer, citronella bug spray in the bathroom (never needed it), raised walkways, and plenty of rubber boots (pack knee socks to avoid chafing) and walking sticks.

Puma spotting Rainforest expeditions tambopata

That’s a young puma peering out at us during a night walk in the jungle around the Posada Amazonas lodge.

We spent a lot of time jungle with our guide Paul, who was born in a remote village called Manu where he literally had a jaguar as a pet. Paul took us to the nearby canopy tower for very fruitful early morning bird watching, we went paddling on oxbow lakes, and, of course, we did a lot of jungle walking. The highlight was a night walk during which Paul’s expert hunch (and trail observations) paid off with a sighting of a young puma, a first for us and rare enough for Paul to get excited too.

Spics Guan tambopata

We spent hours staring at a tree with a known harpy eagle nest in it but we never saw the harpy and had to settle for this common spics guan instead.

Despite our best efforts we never got a glimpse of the nesting harpy eagle near the lodge (other guests saw it), so we have to content ourselves with Rainforest Expeditions’ Harpy Cam, below.

Paradise tanager Tambopata

A paradise tanager spotted near Posada Amazonas.

Pavone quetzal tambopata

We’ve seen resplendent quetzals before but we saw our first pavone quetzal while hiking in the jungle near Posada Amazonas.

We’d already seen cocoi herons, king vultures, and dozens of capybara during our journeys up and down the river, but on our trip back to Puerto Maldonado we got a real treat: a pair of tapir on the banks of the river.

Tapir tambopata river

It’s unusual to see tapir out in the open as we did during a journey on the Tambopata River.

Also worth noting: while we were in the Tambopata Amazon a cold front blew in from Patagonia and temperatures plunged, so pack some layers just in case. For more surprises, check out our post about other Amazon Myths.

The Amazon gets cold

If anyone tells you it’s always hot in the Amazon, show them this picture of guides all bundled up during a very, very cold journey on the river.

Innovating in the Amazon

Another reason we like Rainforest Expeditions is that they continue to innovate. In 2017 that meant the addition of a number of Wired Amazon programs. One allows guests at Refugio Amazonas to help Discover a Species during nighttime bug collection efforts. The area may be home to thousands of uncatalogued species and this program aims to find them. Specimens are gathered and then sent to a leading entomologist in Lima where they’re examined. At least one new species of moth has been found with the help of guests.

Hummingbird Tambopata Peru

A hummingbird gets breakfast.

Other new programs include creating an enormous grid of wildlife camera traps called Amazoncam which can be watched around the world and an Aerobotany program that lets anyone with an internet connection help take a census of local trees.

Screaming Piha, Tambopata reserve

This is an aptly-named screaming piha caught in mid-scream.

Travel tips for Puerto Maldonado

You may need to spend a night in Puerto Maldonado before or after your Amazon adventure. Here are some travel tips.

Puerto Maldonado is an Amazon gateway town, a port town, and a border town (Brazil is right over there). That triple whammy would normally result in a dirty, dreary, downtrodden town. But Puerto Maldonado is practically pleasant. Traffic roundabouts are decorated with huge statues of harpy eagles and big cats. The people are reasonably friendly. And there’s no whiff of sketchiness or neglect.

We stayed at Anaconda Lodge which is right next door to the Rainforest Expeditions office. The place is run by an expat named Donald and his Thai wife Wadee (along with a menagerie of dogs, cats, and the occasional rescued monkey). A range of rooms are scattered around a jungly plot of land. There’s a very clean pool, Wi-Fi (which is weak or strong depending on which room you choose), and a menu of legit Thai dishes cooked by Wadee and her daughter.

Though there are only 15 rooms, one of them is called Room 69, aka the honeymoon suite, for reasons that will shortly become apparent. This racy room features a wooden bed with four enormous penises carved into the bed posts, bedside tables with boobs that serve as drawer handles, and a table supported by the bent over legs and backsides of two women instead of traditional legs. The furniture was carved by a local artist based on designs by Donald and Wadee, who swear the artist wasn’t too shocked.

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