Mazatlan - Trans-Americas Journey

We headed to Mazatlan as much because of its illustrious past as Mexico’s first truly glamorous beach resort and to see what’s become of it lately. We were pleasantly surprised on both fronts. Yes, Mazatlan’s Zona Dorado (Golden Zone), the main and more-modern drag, is a kind of low-rent Cancun or Fort Lauderdale with high rise resorts of certain era (one 1,000+ room monster is literally called a Mega Resort), lots of restaurants offering buffets or hamburgers and a half-hearted attempt at style. However, the original heart of Mazatlan is still a charmer.

Playa Olas Atlas, just a few blocks from the center of Old Mazatlan, was one of the first resort areas in Mexico.

Located down at the Playa Olas Atlas end of town, the original part of Mazatlan was once referred to as the “Pearl of the Pacific.” John Wayne used to keep a boat here and Ernest Hemingway spent more than a little bit of time in town. The area has long since let go of the last vestiges of its glamorous past and embraced–either out of choice or out of necessity–its decidedly faded present.

The result is an old travel battlehorse so comfortable in its peeling, slightly-crumbling skin that visitors are instantly made to feel perfectly, casually at home as well. A fresh crop of hip bars, a thriving arts scene and a growing number of boutique hotels (we’re talking about you Melville Suites and Hotel Machado) and bed and breakfasts keep the area from lurching into has-been-land.

More on the chic lodgings later. For now, let us stress that Old Mazatlan is also home to some exceptional hotel bargains, like the Belmar Hotel, a faded but still perfectly acceptable budget option (clean, safe, central, functioning Wi-Fi, secure parking) where we got a room with A/C for 200 pesos (about $13). Yep.

The Hotel Belmar was the first resort hotel to be built in Mazatlan. Opened in 1918 it was, at one time, THE place to stay. Now old school, open-air Pulmonia taxis pick up and drop off budget traveler guests at this ramshackle diva.

Old Mazatlan combines the pastels of Miami with the wrought iron and languid patios of New Orleans and many of Old Mazatlan’s original buildings have been (or are being) renovated, giving the area a kind of lazy boom-town feel. Another quirky Mazatlan plus? Free calls to the US and Canada from house phones at most of the hotels–even the penny-pinching Belmar.

The restored buildings in Old Mazatlan bring color and style to the neighborhood.

The sights and sounds of a low-key seaside town like Mazatlan make a seafood meal sound good and we spent plenty of afternoons at Mariscos Tono enjoying wonderfully fresh ceviche and 12 peso cervezas. We were also tipped off about a great taco place called Taqueria Playa Sur. Tender, tender beef and a bustling turnover. Want a tablecloth and live jazz and a wine list and a cappuccino? Restaurants like Pedro y Lola in Old Mazatlan deliver that too.

The heart of Old Mazatlan is the Plaza Machado which is surrounded by cafes and the beautifully restored Angela Peralta Theater.

Street art on one of the buildings in Old Mazatlan is too good to be called graffiti.

The 19th century cathedral in Old Mazatlan.

Though we originally checked into the wonderfully frayed (and equally wonderfully priced) Hotel Belmar we were intrigued by the number of really chic little boutique hotels and bed and breakfasts we walked past on our daily strolls through Old Mazatlan. One of them, the Casa Lucila, is right on the waterfront and has a story as irresistible as its location.

Opened by Conchita Valades de Boccard and her husband Christopher, this stunner is named after her mother and the eight over-sized rooms (many with sea-view patios) are named after Conchita’s eight sisters. The restaurant and lounge is named for Conchita’s father, Mazatlan crooner Fernando Valades Lejarza. Conchita jokes that she’s going to have to open another hotel so her five brothers can have rooms named after them and she’s done such a wonderful job with Casa Lucila that we really hope she follows through on that threat.

A native of Mazatlan, Conchita bought the property in 2007 and photos of the building at that time prove that calling it a shambles would have been a compliment. Today the tranquil and stylish two story hotel is properly dressed in Italian stone and windows and doors and plush linens. There’s even a plunge pool and a lovely one-room spa. The sublime custom mattresses are made by hand in Mazatlan by a man who can only be called an artist.

As if to seal the deal, the location of the hotel, on a slight rise above the seawall, provides gratis views down the long, sweeping crescent of Olas Atlas Beach. All in all, Casa Lucila is a wonderful new take on Old Mazatlan.

Sunset on the Pacific.

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It’s true. Durango doesn’t have the museums or restaurants of Mexico City. Or the charro culture of Lagos de Moreno. Or the tequila of Tequila or the beach resorts of the Costalegre. And it’s certainly not on most visitors’ itineraries.

Then again, we’re not most visitors. Durango it is!

Durango's Cathedral Basilica Menor by day...

...and by night.

Our first stop in Durango was Cremeria Wallender where our minds were boggled by its luscious similarities–from the freshly roasted coffee to the freshly baked bread and pastries to the gourmet cuts of meat to the decadent prepared foods to the hard-to-find ingredients–to Dean & Deluca, the gourmet mecca in New York City’s swanky Soho district. It’s not the biggest food bargain in Durango (more on food bargains later), but it’s a lovely shop and cafe especially with the owner passing out free glasses of sangria, apparently inaugurating a beautiful new outdoor patio complete with a jazz duo.

Cremeria Wallender delivers live jazz on weekends, great salads and tortas (sandwiches) plus gourmet groceries and adorable painted cows.

Next we checked into the Hotel Durango where we found free parking, a big clean room with an even bigger outdoor patio and all the mod-cons all for 240 pesos with Wi-Fi. Honestly, this room is one of the biggest city hotel bargains we’ve encountered in Mexico so far.

Another bargain? Dinner at Corleone Pizza. Not only is the pizza and pasta perfectly respectable, but the prices are unbeatable (a 16″ pizza is 90 pesos) which explains the crush of young couples on dates and new families on a budget that fill the place and form lines out the door (come early).

Town was filled with the sound of drum and bugle corps and when we stumbled upon Plaza IV Centenario we discovered why: the Concurso de Bandas de Guerra (Contest of War Bands??? Anyone?) was in full swing.

An unexpected bonus of our stay in Durango was a convergence of marching bands of all ages which were in town for something called the Concurso de Bandas de Guerra which we’ve lamely translated as “Contest of War Bands.” One evening we stumbled across a kind of battle of the war bands in Plaza IV Centenario and when the participants began to solemnly unfurl the Mexican flag and play and sing the national anthem we suddenly realize we’d never actually heard it before. It’s lovely and heartfelt and mournful and long–like everyone’s national anthem. What is unusual is that any Mexican who’s been in the military sings the anthem while saluting at their foreheads. Those who have never served salute at the level of their hearts.

Unfortunately, at least one of the bands was staying at our hotel and the teenaged members felt the need to use the echoing hallways as playgrounds from 2 am to 4 am. One thing you learn in Mexico: noise does not bother people the same way it does in the US and if you complain about noise you’re likely to be met with a puzzled look. We certainly were.

A formal flag ceremony at the Concurso de Bandas de Guerra. We realized this was the first time we'd heard Mexico's national anthem.

One thing Durango has that Mexico City or Tequila or Lagos de Moreno or the Costalegre don’t have is a golden history as the place where many beloved movies have been shot over the course of the past 100 or so years. There’s even a Museo de Cine in town.

For obvious geographical reasons, many of those movies were westerns–John Wayne was here so often he eventually bought a local ranch which was ultimately turned into a movie set. The western main street (saloon, post office, jail, etc) that served as the set for many famous western movies is now an attraction called Villa del Oeste which. For 30 pesos per person, including bus transportation from downtown, you get a blessedly tongue-in-cheek “re-enactment” of western scenes palyed out on the dusty main street, plus plenty of beer, snacks and food. It’s cheesy but also strangely enjoyable and we ended up surprising ourselves by being really glad we came.

At Villa de Oeste Karen was nearly taken hostage by a crazed gunman, um, actor, um, gunman...

At Villa de Oeste Karen is nearly taken hostage by a crazed gunman.

After the show one of the actors, a scar-faced toughie named Tom Hansson who played a scar-faced toughie in the show, approached us and insisted on signing our program. When he becomes the next John Wayne we expect to clean up.

The road from the coast (Mazatlan) to Durango is one of the more spectacular drives in Mexico as sections cross the heart of the Sierra Madre Occidental. A particularly narrow and winding section is aptly named El Espinoza del Diablo, or The Devil's Backbone.

Perhaps another reason Durango isn’t on everyone’s Mexico itinerary is that you have to take Highway 40, a road that includes a narrow, windy section unwelcomingly named The Devil’s Backbone. The road itself is often referred to by the locals as “El Camino de Tres Mil Curvas” or The Road of 3,000 Curves and there were moments of mild car sickness even though we “never get car sick.”

The 180 miles from Durango to Mazatlan is so winding that it takes six to seven hours to make the trip, depending on how courageous you are at passing slower moving traffic. But it’s also a spectacular drive as you climb and turn through the Sierra Madre Occidental. The two lane road is narrow and hogged up by a steady stream of 18-wheelers whose drivers demonstrate wildly varying levels of skill and consideration for other vehicles and many turns are simply too tight to accommodate big trucks and buses.

A multi-billion dollar road works project is currently creating an alternate high speed and undoubetedly high-toll route that involves a lot of high-tech engineering including 26 tunnels and 14 bridges in just one 29 mile section. One of the bridges, the Baluarte Bridge (El Puente Baluarte), will be nearly 3,700 feet long–the biggest cable-stay bridge in Latin America. The new road, set to be done in 2012, will have fewer turns and drop 75 miles (including the Devil’s Backbone section) out of the route cutting the total trip time from six hours to around three hours and all but erasing the white-knuckle factor.

We’ll take the old road any day.