Best of the Trans-Americas Journey 2010 – Best Hotels

Welcome to Part 3 in our 3 Part “Best Of 2010″ series of posts. Part 3 is all about the Best Hotels of the year. Part 1 covers the Best Adventures & Attractions of 2010 and Part 2 covers the Best Food & Beverages.

Yes, yes, end of year round-ups can be lame.

Or they can be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are. Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a valuable chance for you to get a quick hit of the best of the best tools, tricks, triumphs and truths that made our  Trans-Americas Journey in 2010 and, we hope, inspire you to hit the road yourself in 2011 (or 2012, no pressure).

Obviously, we’re going for a non-lame version here.

First, a few relevant stats:

In 2010 the Trans-Americas Journey…

…explored three countries (Mexico, Belize and Guatemala–though we’re still not through with the latter two)

…traveled 12,662 miles (a slow year for us)

…spent $2,685 on fuel (yikes)

…had zero flat tires (for real)

…bounced over about a billion topes (vicious Latin American speed bumps)

We also spent nearly all 365 nights of 2010 in hotels (when we weren’t lucky enough to be staying with new friends, old friends or family). In no particular order, here are some of the hotel moments that made all that time on the road even better.

 

Best Robinson Crusoe romance room: Posada del Arquitecto in a multi-level thatch-roofed open-air bungalow perched on a cactus-covered rocky outcrop a couple dozen feet above the Pacific Ocean which crashes dramatically onto the soft sand of Playa Rinconocito in Mazunte, Oaxaca State, Mexico. We snagged Cactus, the mojo-filled cabana the Italian architect owner originally built for himself. This duplex with its own entrance is rustic romance personified with a peep-free location that encourages traipsing around half-naked, a hammock made for two, a petite kitchen (just big enough to chill some beer, whip up some guacamole or a pasta dinner and brew morning coffee) and the sound and sight of those dramatic waves 24/7. There is nothing fancy here. The romance of this room comes from its location and its sense of seclusion–two key qualities that are hard to find.

 

Best all-inclusive: Generally speaking, we are not all-inclusive beach resort kinds of people. We ARE world-class food, gorgeous decor, impeccable service,  and classy guilt-free indulgences kinds of people which explains why we were so won over by Grand Velas All Suites Spa & Resort Riviera Maya.   Sometimes we play this video (taken from our suite) just to reminisce…

 

Best check in: Arriving guests at Live Aqua Cancun are greeted by a staffer who sits them down in a comfy chair and proceeds to give them a hand massage. True story.

 

Best eco bungalows amongst Mayan ruins: The private flight in and the gourmet food say luxury while the deep-jungle setting and the unexcavated Mayan ruins say natural wonders. Both co-exist happily at Chan Chich Lodge in northern Belize, one of the world’s first luxury eco retreats and still one of the most impressive practitioners of the art of combining a sense of really being in nature (the warbling of ocellated turkeys will likely be your wake up call) with cocktail hour.

 

Best unexpected hotel art collection(s): There’s an arty little secret lurking in Chiapas, Mexico and it’s all thanks to one man. Mario Uvence is an art and antiques dealer and a figure in the Mexican and international art worlds. He is also the owner of  Parador San Juan de Dios hotel in San Cristobal de las Casas and Parador Santa Maria hotel near Lagos de Montebello. Both hotels offer antique-stuffed rooms in meticulously restored buildings. But the real reason to visit is to gain access to the petite but powerful art collections at each property, both run by the Mario Uvence Cultural Foundation. The  gallery at San Juan de Dios is appropriately called Eklektic and it features 17th to 21st century religious sculptures, paintings and other works of art from Chiapas, the Philipines and Europe. We saw pieces here (like a tiny baby Jesus carved out of ivory) that we’ve never seen in any other museum in the world. At Santa Maria’s Museo de Arte Sacro, religious pieces are on show in thoroughly modern displays inside the old bones of a renovated church. The collections, and their surroundings, are equally spectacular.

 

Best do-no-disturb sign: Privacy is paramount to many of the bold-name guests who check into Condesa df in Mexico City and that’s reflected in their door hang tags which read “No” on one side and “Do Not” on the other.

 

Best clever hotel web site: We look at a LOT of hotel web sites and we can honestly say we’ve never been as entertained by a hotel web site as much as we were when we stumbled upon the Luz en Yucatan web site. The Luz, a moderately-priced guesthouse in the city of Merida in southern Mexico, offers “amusing accommodations” (a range of spotless, great-value stylish rooms and apartments) in a big converted home in the center of town. One of the rooms at Luz en Yucatan is named after a dearly departed iguana. The rate you pay ($50 –$94) is based on whether you consider yourself  “not at all successful” “moderately successful” or “exceedingly successful.” Rooms are available by the night, week, or month, or, for the existentialist “they are available by the moment.” Whimsical illustrations and a found-object/DIY look add to the charm of the site. Even if you’re not planning a trip to Merida a trip to the Luz en Yucatan web site is time well spent.

 

Best hotel surprise: It sounds crazy: A French farmhouse-inspired boutique hotel in a tiny Mexican town in Veracruz State. And yet, there it is. A pleasantly weathered bicycle leans against a stone wall. A bowl of limes sits in a colander on a wooden table under a gnarled tree. A pair of jaunty Jack Russell terriers greets you at the door. Your room is sparingly furnished with meticulously-sourced European antiques and Mexican-made replicas of French classics. Meals are made using French techniques and local ingredients. Even the General Manager  is French! Once we simply accepted (and reveled in) the unforced French style and charm of  Maison Couturier this place delivered the most transporting hotel experience we had all year.

Maison Couturier

 

Best new hotel (that we stayed at): From bordello to locksmith to one of Mexico’s best new boutique hotels. That’s the journey Hotel Brick has made. We were there soon after its opening and the place had already become a hip magnet in the very hip Roma neighborhood of Mexico City with cooler-than-you crowds of locals at the inviting lobby bar and lounge, La Modern French Brasserie and the downstairs “speakeasy” bar/club. But the neighborhood patrons (eventually) go home which means they miss out on the rooms at Hotel Brick. Despite the long, rich history of the building and the remains of many architectural details the rooms have a modern loft/pied-a-terre look and feel–somehow hip and homey at the same time. Like the neighborhood, Hotel Brick proudly displayed its own unique style and personality right off the bat–an unusual feat for a new hotel.

 

Best hotel room bathroom: Luscious beauty products, fluffy towels and extravagant shower heads are standard bathroom issue at luxury hotels. But nothing about Las Alcobas in Mexico City is standard issue that that goes double in the bathroom where we were delighted (and a bit alarmed) to find a Toto toilet which has a heated seat, well-aimed cleaning jets and even a blow dryer for your bum. The shower (which has THREE different shower heads) is constructed so that the drain is hidden along one edge, eliminating the need to stand on the drain while showering. The jetted tub automatically flushes and cleans its own jets after each use. Guests are offered a choice of full-size, hand-made, all-natural soaps upon arrival. Did we mention that the bathroom lighting is perfect too?

 

Best S&M hotel: While walking around Playa del Carmen in Yucatan State, Mexico something caught our eye. Just off  the 5th Avenue pedestrian promenade we spotted a huge building that looked like condos or apartments. On closer inspection it turned out to be a hotel, but not just any hotel. There were mannequins posed on many of the balconies and thousands of red light bulbs illuminated the interior and the exterior. This is Hotel Reina Roja (which means red queen in Spanish) which is owned and designed by an architect from Mexico City. He calls the Reina Roja “Mexican emergent architecture theme hotel” and that about sums it up if your theme involves bondage. Red and black dominate.  The hallways on all floors leading to the rooms are locked and have been turned into quasi-cages with wire fencing (to keep “them” out or to keep us in?). Half-clad mannequins are everywhere–in the restaurant, on balconies, in a cage in the lobby. The maids brush the mannequins’ wigs daily and the staff moves them around and poses them for best effect. It’s equal parts sexy and creepy.

Reina-Roja Hotel

 


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Our Latest Work: Andrew Zimmern’s daring dining, Richard Sandoval’s newest restaurant, a foodies’ all-inclusive and luxury haciendas

We admit it. Our latest published work is a bit food obsessed.

First, there’s our interview for Every Day with Rachael Ray magazine with Andrew Zimmern, host of Bizarre Foods on the Travel Channel, in which Zimmern spills the beans about his favorite daring (but delicious) eats in the United States.
Read about duck tongues and deep-fried headcheese here.


Next up, our review of the Grand Velas All Suites & Spa Resort Riviera Maya in Mexico where their five restaurants push this all-inclusive way over the top.
Read about top shelf tequila and tasty foam here.


And on to an inside look (and taste) at Tuna, the latest restaurant from Chef Richard Sandoval, which just opened in the swanky Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City.
Read about one of the best cocktails we’ve ever had here.


Not feeling hungry? Check out our profile of all five of  The Haciendas, a group of historic hotels that are  part of the Starwood Luxury Collection. Scattered throughout Campeche and Yucatan states in southern Mexico, Hacienda Uayamon, Hacienda San Jose, Hacienda Puerta Campeche, Hacienda Temozon and Hacienda Santa Rosa represent some of the most unusual hotels in the region.
Read about luxury in the jungle (and killing a scorpion in the shower) here.



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Day Trip Bliss – Around Mexico City

As if Mexico City didn’t have enough museums, attractions in and around the Centro, delicious tacos and cool neighborhoods to keep us busy for weeks, the city is also within easy day-trip distance of other fascinating things to do and see. Here are four of our favorite things to do around the city.


The Ruins of the Aztec City of Teotihuacan


The archaeological site, located about 25 miles from Mexico City at what remains of the pre-Columbian Aztec city of Teotihuchan, was first opened to the public 100 years ago and millions of people have toured the massive complex, known as The Place Where the Gods Were Created, since then. Despite the site’s long history of archeological exploration new discoveries are still being made. Just this year a 400 foot long tunnel that’s believed to be nearly 2,000 years old was unearthed at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Pyramid of the Sun is the third largest pyramid in the world, after the Great Pyramid of Cholula also in Mexico and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt.

A visit to Teotihuacan can easily take three hours and be prepared for dusty, hot, shade-free conditions and some steep climbs up the nearly 250 foot high Pyramid of the Sun and only slightly smaller Pyramid of the Moon. Though some Mexican women do it in heels we highly recommend sensible shoes.

It's a long, hot, steep climb up the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan near Mexico City.

The Pyramid of the Moon as seen from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun at Teotihuacan near Mexico City.

The Pyramid of the Moon at Teotihuacan near Mexico City.

A controversial Resplandor Teotihuacano sound and light show is also put on at Teotihuacan but, thankfully, plans to build a Walmart on a section of the ancient city appear to have been defeated.

Looking down the Avenue of the Dead with the Pyramid of the Sun in the background at Teotihuacan near Mexico City..


The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe


Welcome to the world’s most visited Catholic site–yep, more people come to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, a short bus/metro ride from the city center, than any other catholic shrine in the world. It’s estimated that around 20 million people a year visit the Basilica. Even Pope John Paul came here and his Mexican Popemobile is still on display.

The Basilica is impossibly packed during the annual Festival of Our Lady of Guadalupe which happens every year in December. The festival marks the time of year when, in 1531, the dark-skinned Virgin of Guadalupe is said to have first appeared to an Aztec shepherd named Juan Diego, eventually proving her existence and her miraculous powers by imprinting an image of herself onto his clothes.

The weirdly modern looking new Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (left) next to the old basilica which is literally sinking into the ground under its own weight.

This leads us to the main reason the faithful (and the curious) flock to the Basilica. The actual tilma or apron that Diego was wearing at the time of his encounter with the virgin is said to be exhibited in the weirdly modern new Basilica which was built after it was discovered that the elegant, stately original stone basilica is literally sinking under its own weight. The old basilica was closed for repairs for a while but it’s open now and despite engineer’s best efforts you still walk uphill into the sagging church when you cross the threshold.

This statue on the grounds of the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe shows Juan Diego showing the bishop the miracle of the Virgin of Guadalupe's image printed onto his shepherd's clothes.

But we digress. Back to the miracle shroud. What’s said to be Diego’s actual tilma bearing the actual image of the Virgin seared there in 1531 is framed and hung on a wall underneath the altar in the new basilica. A back-and-forth sets of moving sidewalks slowly ferry people from left to right, then right to left in front of the relic. Tears flow, cameras snap, eyebrows raise.

Relic or not, this framed image of the Virgin of Guadalupe underneath the altar in the new Basilica of our Lady of Guadalupe near Mexico City attracts millions of the faithful plus a few of the just plain curious.


The Xochimilco Canals


Mexico City is built on a swamp which was originally tamed by the Aztecs using a clever network of canals and bridges. Today, most of the Mexico City valley has been reclaimed as solid ground but 17 miles to the south in Xochimilco you can still experience the original watery ways.

Here, brightly painted hand-propelled boats called trejineras ply the waters taking tourists and locals alike through a network of calm waterways that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Food and beer and trinket vendors sidle up in their own boats as do mariachis eager for a commission. It’s a festive atmosphere best shared with family and friends.

Colorful boats called trajineras ply the tranquil waters of the ancient Xochimilco canals near Mexico City.

Colorful boats called trajineras ply the tranquil waters of the ancient Xochimilco canals near Mexico City.

Mariachis on a trajinera on the Xochimilco canals give new meaning to the term "roving minstrel."


The UNAM Campus


The full name of this massive campus is the National Autonomous University of Mexico or the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. Whatever you call it this is widely considered to be the best university in Latin America.

At least 7 Mexican Presidents and other assorted political figures have attended UNAM plus big Mexican literary figures and, weirdly, William F. Buckley who attended UNAM in 1943.

UNAM is 100 years old this year and the main campus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dates back to the 1950s. The campus earned UNESCO status in large part because of the stunning convergence of architecture and art. The campus was designed by Mexican architects Mario Pani and Enrique del Moral but its vaguely revolutionary, certainly progressive look and feel can be credited to a much larger group of creative types who the architects collaborated with including sixty engineers and artists worked like David Alfaro Siquieros, Diego Rivera and Juan O’Gorman.

UNAM is also home to Olympic Stadium which was  built in 1956 and which hosted the tumultuous 1968 Summer Olympics.

The Central Library on the UNAM campus in Mexico City is covered in mosaics by Juan O'Gorman.

Torre de Rectoria on the UNAM campus in Mexico City is covered in murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros. This one, "Las fechas de las historia de Mexico" (The dates of Mexico's histsory) includes dates representing key events in Mexican history: 1520 (the Spanish conquest), 1810 (independence from Spain), 1857 (writing of the constitution) and 1910 (the Mexican revolution). The final date simply reads "19??."


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