How 9/11 Changed Our Lives (and not just how you think)

We should be in Africa right now. Instead, we’re in Central America in the midst of our Trans-Americas Journey road trip. What does that have to do with the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001–a series of tragedies that changed so many people’s lives and which we can hardly believe took place 10 years ago?

Everything.

On September 10, 2001 we were living in lower Manhattan less than three blocks from the World Trade Center, happily in the throes of planning our next big trip, an overland exploration of Africa. The next day we–like millions of others–were forced to re-think many things.

We never for a minute considered giving up our next big trip. We know that more travel equals more understanding which equals less hatred and violence. Previous trips through Islamic countries (Pakistan, Indonesia, Egypt, Turkey) gave us a modicum of perspective in the often perspective-less aftermath of the 9/11 attacks and we valued that.

This photo was taken from the roof of our apartment building minutes after the second plane went into the South (nearest to us) tower.

Who are “they”? Who are “us”?

Suddenly, going to Africa as we’d been planning seemed random. Haphazard. Not of the moment. Why, we wondered, are we always traveling so far from home (Europe, Asia, Australia)? And what’s home all about now anyway? And while we’re on the subject, what’s our role in the world personally and as citizens of the United States? Do “they” really hate “us” like the President says? Who are they? Who are us? And when did the United States become blue or red?

As citizens of so many terror-stricken countries around the world know, being attacked makes you ask questions like that.

Not only did our home, or own backyard no longer make sense to us as we watched citizen after citizen squander their 15 seconds of fame ranting about “us” getting “them”, we were also homeless. For three months after 9/11 we could not return to our apartment building, less than three blocks south of the Twin Towers, because it was well within the primary crime scene.

Investigators were busy looking for clues in the landing gear which ended up in front of our building, the chilling shreds of human remains that seemed to be everywhere, the thick layer of dust on everything and God knows what else. There was no room for residents hungry for something normal like the familiar drip of the shower or the bark of the dog across the hall.

Eric spent the morning of the attacks on our roof taking pictures of the increasingly confusing and horrifying events and experiencing the collapse of both buildings before eventually evacuating lower Manhattan by ferry to New Jersey.

This photo was taken from in front of our apartment building (the green awning was our building) about a minute before the second tower collapsed. The yellow police tape marks where part of the landing gear from one of the planes fell.

Most of Eric’s photographs from that day are back in New York and no one needs another post full of horrific images from that day (they’re seared into our brains anyway). We’ve included a chaste few here. In a disturbing bit of coincidence, a picture of Eric, waiting to evacuate from our apartment building on that terrible day, was recently published on the Time-Life web site.

Eric in the lobby of our apartment building minutes after the first tower collapsed. The picture, taken by Hiro Oshima, was published in a LIFE photo gallery captioned "Residents flee their apartment building near the scene of the World Trade Center Attack."

Unable to return home (that word again), we were soon living in the Soho Grand hotel with other neighborhood refuges (eternal thanks to the hotel for its generosity and understanding and to our insurance company State Farm). We had time to think and pretty soon we realized that what we needed as much as our apartment back were answers to the big questions we’d started asking as a reaction to the political spin on the attacks and the non-stop and often simplistic media coverage.

This photo, of lower Manhattan about an hour after the second tower fell, was taken from a tug boat on which Eric was evacuated to New Jersey. The location of our building and where the towers stood is noted in yellow.

The Trans-Americas Journey was born

Our answer was to completely re-think our trip, shifting gears to focus on really seeing and understanding America. The Trans-Americas Journey was born. Since a road trip through just the United States was not nearly ambitious enough we expanded the plan to include all of The Americas–with an emphasis on the plural nature of that term.

This felt right. Part of the problem, it seemed to us, is the fact that some people act like they’re solely from one place or one ideology when, in truth, we’re all from right here on this planet and we’re all connected as our route (from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego) is meant to  demonstrate.

As the calendar tells us that 10 years have passed since the September 11th terrorist attacks that changed so much, we urge you to think honestly about how your life was changed for better, for worse, forever.

If you feel inclined to mark the date with a donation we would like to suggest giving to the Peter C. Alderman Foundation. We were not lucky enough to have known Peter, who lost his life at age 25 in the Twin Towers on 9/11. We did have the honor of meeting his parents and sister and learning about the remarkable foundation these remarkable people have created and nurtured in honor of their remarkable son.

Unique among 9/11-inspired foundations, the Peter C. Alderman Foundation harnesses monetary donations and medical and psychological expertise to empower in-country health providers to bring healing to trauma victims around the world.

Victims of violence, war and terrorism in Cambodia, Rwanda, Haiti and Uganda have received counseling and support from the foundation. More than 200 doctors and health care professionals in Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Ethiopia, Kenya, Liberia, Rwanda, Somalia, Sudan, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe have received advanced training in the treatment of traumatic depression and PTSD. In the past 10 years the foundation has changed the game for 100,000 people struggling with the kind of debilitating emotions Peter’s family can relate to so well.

We applaud the foundations’ sleek effectiveness and its human acknowledgement that suffering is not the sole domain of one tragedy or one people. It’s something inflicted on all of us in the world we share and you can either be part of the suffering or part of the solution.

It’s up to you.

Tribute in Lights shot by Francisco Diez.

 

 

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Live is Good – New York City

One often overlooked reason to visit New York City is its live music scene. That’s one of the main things we miss about living in Manhattan since we left the city in 2006 to embark on the Trans-Americas Journey. Every night at all hours there are hundreds of clubs and venues around the city playing every kind of  music to every kind of crowd.

We recently returned “home” for a brief visit with family and friends we haven’t seen in almost three years (that’s why you haven’t heard much from us over the past few weeks). During our time in NYC we saw as much live music as possible in lots of new (to us) venues. We’re back in Guatemala now and new posts from the road are in the works. In the meantime, here’s a rundown of some of the venues we visited and the best music we heard during our live music binge, NYC style.


Venue: Sullivan Hall
Neighborhood: Greenwich Village, Manhattan
Vibe: The long narrow layout, ample approachable bar and low ceiling of Sullivan Hall are pleasantly reminiscent of  one of our all-time favorite venues–a place called Tribeca Rock Club, may it rest in peace.
The band we saw: Bonerama,a wonderful horn-based New Orleans funky funk fun machine, was in the midst of a weekly residency at Sullivan Hall and we caught them one night along with special guests Kyle Hollingsworth (from the band The String Cheese Incident), guitar wiz Steve Kimock, as well as one of the best young keyboard players in the world, Jonathan Batiste of the legendary Louisiana musical family. Dancing ensued.

Bonerama performing at Sullivan Hall. Photo courtesy of our friend music photographer Dino Perrucci.



Venue: Brooklyn Bowl
Neighborhood: Williamsburg Brooklyn
Vibe: This place was opened by Pete Shapiro, the man behind a club called The Wetlands which was one of the city’s most iconic and tempo-setting live music joints until it closed in 2001. Brooklyn Bowl doesn’t look like The Wetlands (which somehow managed to merge grungy, hippy and head-bangy in both decor and music). Instead, the spacious Brooklyn Bowl’s got a studied design (urban roadhouse) plus bowling lanes right next to the stage. There’s also awesome southern comfort food provided by a restaurant group called Blue Ribbon. We quickly understood what all of our friends have been raving about. Brooklyn Bowl looks and feels franchise ready—-as if the place was opened as a brand ready to roll out across the country as a hipper more relevant version of The House of Blues–and national expansion rumors are already circulating (heads up).
The band we saw: The New Mastersounds delivered their Brit funk (think classic Meters) to a sold out crowd. We’ve been into this band since we saw them at the High Sierra Music Festival years ago. And we still love them. But when did guitarist Eddie Roberts start looking so much like actor Ewan McGregor? Check the band out for yourself by watching Coals to Newcastle, a very cool rockumentary about the band made by our friend Marca, when it comes to your town (don’t blink: Eric is in the  movie for a few seconds).


New Master Sounds performing at Brooklyn Bowl. Dino Perrucci

New Mastersounds performing at Brooklyn Bowl. Photo courtesy of our friend music photographer Dino Perrucci.



Venue: Ace of Clubs
Neighborhood: NoHo Manhattan
Vibe: Insider basement. This place is stripped down to just the basics: bar, stage, band.
The band we saw: We made it to Ace of Clubs twice. First to see Disgrace, a temporary acoustic project with three of the guys from the band moe. The next time we ventured down the creaky stairs to Ace of Clubs was to see a band called American Babies featuring appearances by two of the original band members: our friends Scott Metzger on guitar and Joe Russo on Russo on drums. Both bands delivered inventive, experimental sets which were just right for the intimate room.


Venue: Madison Square Garden
Neighborhood: Midtown Manhattan
Vibe: Mega star Zamboni. This is where the biggest acts (from music to sports to politics) come to strut their stuff. As they say, if you can make it here…
The band we saw: Eric traveled around the country to see more than 200 Grateful Dead shows back in the day (including some shows at Madison Square Garden). A band called Further is the latest post-Jerry Garcia incarnation of the music and the band features Bob Weir and Phil Lesh from the original GD lineup plus a new cast of strong musicians including our friend Joe Russo on drums. Joe rocked it up there on the big stage–especially during the opening minutes of the band’s cover of Pink Floyd’s “Time.” We couldn’t be prouder.


Further (Grateful Dead) at Madison Square Garden Greg Aiello

Further performing at Madison Square Garden with our friend Joe Russo on drums. Photo courtesy of another friend, Greg Aiello.



Venue: Rockwood Music Hall
Neighborhood: Lower East Side Manhattan
Vibe: The tiny footprint and all-glass storefront of this bar/stage gives this venue a voyeuristic speakeasy feel.
The band we saw: Kelli Scarr is a singer/songwriter with an ethereal voice (she’s a Moby favorite and he sometimes shows up at her gigs). Backed by the expressiveness of Scott Metzger on guitar, the rock train of Andrew Southern (from the band RANA) on bass and the foundation of a guy named Taylor on drums this was an intimate mellow show as Kelli and crew tried out some new songs.



Venue: Roseland Ballroom
Neighborhood: Midtown Manhattan
Vibe: This 3,200 capacity venue is housed in a building that was constructed in the ’20s as an ice-skating rink. Today the faded glory is heavy on the faded and the sound isn’t always to hot but we were lured inside by a once-in-a-decade show…
The band we saw: We dropped into Roseland to take part in a benefit concert called Another One for Woody which celebrated the life of bassist Allan Woody (Allman Brothers, Govt’ Mule) who passed away 10 years ago. The mega-star-studded five hour concert featured current members of Govt’ Mule, the Allman Brothers Band, and Luther and Cody Dickinson from the North Mississippi Allstars just to name a few. The emotional rockfest was capped off with a moving performance by Allan Woody’s daughter Savannah.


Warren Haynes (right) and Derek Trucks performing at the Another One For Woody Benefit Concert at Roseland Ballroom. Photo courtesy of our friend music photographer Dino Perrucci.



 

TIPS
Oh, and while we were back in NYC we also discovered the perfect hoodie to wear when you go to see live music: the Scottevest Ultimate Hoodie Microfleece looks great, ties easily around your waist if you heat up from all that dancing and it’s built to carry all your stuff with ingenious secure pockets that easily and securely handle concert essentials including keys, cell phone, wallet, lip gloss, chewing gum, a small camera,  id. even your MP3 player (in its own clear interior pocket that lets you see and work the controls without taking the unit out). Perfect for those times (like seeng live music) when you don’t want to stuff into your pockets or bother carrying a purse or a bag.

Also: Artisenal prints of fantastic live music photographs make awesome gifts!Check out Dino Perrucci’s work and Greg Aiello’s work.



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Our Latest Work: NEW New Year’s Eve Bashes

We’re from New York City. We love New York City. The annual dropping of the ball on New Year’s Eve is an absolutely great New York City tradition.

However, there are other great places to ring in the New Year.

If you want to head for a new country for New Year’s Eve, check out our review of Casa de Mita in Nayarit, Mexico. A handful of sexy luxe rooms, cozy beach location, great service, all inclusive rates that include alcohol and a swim up bar that will change your mind about swim up bars make this a great international New Year’s Eve escape.

Research for our latest story for Every Day with Rachael Ray magazine lead us to four US cities–Telluride, Monterey, Tempe and New Orleans–that throw travel-worthy New Year’s Eve celebrations.

Read it here first!

RachelRay

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