It’s been a long time since we’ve felt the kind of laid back beach vibe that was so common during our four years backpacking around  South and South East Asia in the late ’90s. But the minute we pull into Sayulita we recognize a certain languid pace, smiling attitude and happy go lucky approach to life. Ahhhhh.

While Sayulita is far from undiscovered, it has yet to be overrun with foreign visitors (though you will not be alone) or tourist-price food and lodging–a big part of what makes the place so nice is that locals haven’t been priced out of the market yet. Wander to the bottom of this post for a list of places to stay and eat.

But first, here are just a few of our favorite scenes from Sayulita, which is less than an hour south of Puerto Vallarta…

Sayulita is a wonderful mix of So Cal beach town and Mexican hang out.

Restaurants, boat tours, cold beer and the beach.

Virgins, revolutionaries and catrinas.

Karen relaxing at our favorite beach bar in Sayulita.

Sunset on Sayulita.

Balancing in the sunset.

Sunset in Sayulita.

STAY

There are a ton of charming bungalow styles hotels which offer stand-alone little bungalows. Usually around $100 a night. Cheaper options may use the word bungalow when they’re really referring to regular old rooms. A cheap option we like is  Lunamar Bungalows (note, these are nice rooms, not bungalows). They book up fast because they’re centrally located and just a few blocks from the beach and they’re affordable for Sayulita–around 500 pesos depending on the room. BIG, clean, sunny, pretty rooms have two beds (easily sleeps 4) and some have full kitchens plus reliable internet access since the Lunamar is run by the folks who run the internet café downstairs.

Feeling splurgy? Petit Hotel d’Hafa is owned by a French (we think) brother and sister team who also own a shop in town that’s the MOST chic/unique shop we’ve seen almost anywhere in Mexico. The Hafa will run you around $70 US.

We also met a couple (Denise and Eileen) from the US who live in Sayulita now and they built and rent a beautiful house (the top floor can be rented with just one bedroom and a small kitchen or the whole two story house can be yours with a total of three bedrooms, a huge kitchen, a small pool, balconies, outdoor grill, laundry room, etc).

EAT

Breakfast: Rollies. Just ask anyone  to point you in the direction of this institution owned by a former school principal from Monterey, CA and his wife. HUGE portions, delicious, bottomless coffee, about 65 pesos per plate. VERY kid- friendly.

Dinner/afternoon snack: Tacos on the Street.  This place on Revolucion (one of the main streets) over the bridge a few blocks away from the true downtown is run by the son of a couple who’ve operated a legendary taco stand in a nearby beach town for years. We believe that Tacos on the Street is only open on weekends after 5 and they only serve carne asada (grilled beef) tacos—but everything is homemade and delicious and cheap and they have nice tables to sit at and eat at. Find it by walking down Revolution away from the center of town.

Dinner: Tropical House Restaurant. It’s owned/run by Eileen Loftus and Dennis Johnson (who own the house for rent, above). We believe they are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Really a lovely place. Dennis is usually behind the bar (get one of his special margaritas).

The restaurants on the beach are actually surprisingly affordable and good, so don’t write them off right off the bat.

NOTE: Sayulita Fish Taco right on the square boasts a LOT about having the best fish tacos in Mexico. They’re good, but not mind-blowing (they were better in Baja, for example). But there are other fish taco places in town to try. Avoid the fish taco cart that sets up near the beach— overpriced and greasy.

DRINK

Bar Playa is a bar shack right on the beach. You can’t miss it. 20 peso beer, good micheladas (basically a bloody mary made with beer instead of vodka) and decent mixed drinks too.  They play music (mostly good) and have shade and a few chairs you can occupy as long as you want even if you order one drink.


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