Here, Kitty Kitty – Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, Belize

The Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary includes 200 square miles of protected land. Established in 1984 and made a sanctuary in 1990, it is the world’s first jaguar sanctuary. It’s now home to roughly 70 of the big cats along with many of their smaller kin including ocelot, jaguarundi and margay.

Welcome to Cockcomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize, the world's first jaguar sanctuary.

Of course, we arrived at the sanctuary hoping to see a jaguar and we did our best to increase our chances of a sighting.

First, we decided to camp in the sanctuary. This was not a hard decision because the lodging option in Maya Village, the nearest “town” to the sanctuary, are not cheap and not great (we paid US$25 for a grotty, basic room with a shared bathroom at Nu’uk Che’il Cottages the first night because it was late by the time we arrived).

Also, the campground in the sanctuary happens to be awesome. A large, grassy area has palapa-covered, flat tent sites plus an outhouse and an area for cooking over a fire with ample firewood supplied. There’s even a rain-water cistern. The camping fee of US$5 per person also includes access to a well-equipped communal kitchen that’s shared with anyone else staying in the sanctuary’s other basic accommodations which includes a dorm and shared or private cabins.

A big plus about camping here (besides the bargain price and great facilities) is being in the sanctuary itself where mornings and evenings, in particular, were heralded with a symphony of jungle noises. Sadly, none of them were jaguar growls…

At 3,688 feet Victoria Peak, seen in the distance, is the second highest mountain in Belize.

Staying in the sanctuary also allowed us to just wander away from our tent at dusk and stroll down the dirt road that runs through this corner of the sanctuary in the evenings, which is when the cats start to get active. We saw gibnut (picture a huge hamster), tiny brocket deer and a small yellow bird fast asleep on a branch during our night walks and we even got what we believe was a fleeting glance at a margay, but no jaguar.

Camping in the sanctuary also put us in the perfect position for hiking. Most of the Cockscomb sanctuary is totally undeveloped and set aside as a true human-free haven. However, a small area has been developed for human use and it offers 12 miles of gorgeous trails, beautiful waterfalls and swimming holes and a meandering river perfect for tubing (tubes area available for rent  for US$2.50 a day).

The super-ambitious can even climb to the top of Victoria Peak in the Cockscomb Mountains via a trail through the sanctuary. At 3,688 feet, Victoria Peak is the second highest mountains in Belize and it takes most people three to five days to summit and return.

We stuck to the trails within the basin and the foothills.

Our own private swimming hole at the end of the Tiger Fern trail in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

First we hiked the 4 mile (round trip) Tiger Fern trail which delivered some steep sections before we reached the pay off: two waterfalls with swimming holes. While we cooled off in the deep, clear, wonderful swimming hole beneath the upper falls a tiny hummingbird darted in and out of the waterfall spray, apparently taking a shower. A short climb above the waterfalls leads to an overlook with good views of Victoria Peak and the Cockscomb range–so named because its ridge line looks like a rooster’s comb.

A hummingbird takes a bath in one of two waterfalls accessed via the Tiger Fern trail in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

The next day we tackled the various easy walks in the basin itself with eyes mostly glued to the trail since there are deadly fer-de-lance snakes here. Then we headed up the 3.2 mile (round trip) Ben’s Bluff trail. Less steep than Tiger Fern, this trail also leads to a great waterfall.

A stand of hobbit-ready trees in a seasonally-dry mangrove area within the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

A stand of hobbit-ready trees in a seasonally-dry mangrove area within the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

Perhaps the ugliest jaguar sign we've ever seen...

Cockscomb is also home (or on the migration path) for hundreds of species of birds including scarlet macaws (best seen around noon when the heat inspires them to roost in the shade), swooping parrots and huge guans.

Special thanks to Abel, a guide from Ian Anderson’s Caves Branch Adventure Co. & Jungle Lodge, who turned up in Cockscomb to do some early morning bird scouting and allowed us to tag along. Abel pointed out many birds that our untrained eyes might never have seen, including these…

A laughing falcon in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

A black-headed Trogan in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

A violaceous trogan in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

A lineated woodpecker in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

A tiger heron in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

 

A boat-billed heron in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in Belize.

 

GLAD WE HAD

Even professional guides are impressed with our SureFire flashlights which helped us see all kinds of critters during night walks in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary.

Our ExOfficio Bugs Away pants and shirts, impregnated with Insect Shield repellent, kept the mosquitoes at bay so we could really enjoy our campsite.

Because we had the campground all to ourselves we took over a second palapa and strung up our Hennessy Hammocks for afternoon napping.

 

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Too Much of a Good Thing – Wejlib-Já, Misol Ha and Agua Azul Waterfalls, Chiapas, Mexico

This area of Chiapas gets some of the heaviest rainfall in the whole country–120 inches in some parts of the state. Result? Lots and lots of waterfalls.

Not far from Palenque we turned down a dirt road in search of one of them. What we found was a mostly empty gravel parking lot. Now, a nearly empty parking lot is either a very bad sign (this place sucks so no one comes here) or a very good sign (this place is a hidden treasure). Cascada Wejlib-Já (a Mayan phrase for falling water) is a good example of the latter.

After paying 15 pesos (about US$1.15) each to the ejido (local community) which owns the waterfall we walked the path along the falls–which is really a series of small, wide falls. That gentleness was part of the reason the water was still clear and though there was plenty of it flowing through the falls there were still pools that were calm enough to swim and sit in–as a couple of Mexican families were happily doing.

Palapa-covered tables (but, weirdly, no chairs) had been turned into overflowing picnic spots and all that was missing was a six pack cooling in the water.

Cascada Wejlib-Já in Chiapas, Mexico.

Cascada Wejlib-Já in Chiapas, Mexico.


Misol Ha Waterfall

The parking lot at the much-more-famous Misol Ha waterfall was packed, but we braved the crowds in order to see this 115 foot monster from a very unique perspective. Here a trail takes you from one side of the flow to the other by passing behind the waterfall itself, then going on to the other side of a huge pool that collects beneath the falls. There’s no way to stay dry. Because the water was extra high a safety rope had been put up across the pool and there were even a couple of whistle-toting lifeguards on duty making sure that swimmers stayed behind the rope, far from the dangerous cascade at the bottom of the pool.

Misol Ha, where the trail takes you behind the spectacular cascade.


And then it happened. When we turned around to see what all the sudden, frantic whistling was all about we saw that a young Japanese man had let go of the safety rope across the natural pool and was struggling to resist the pull of the water. He was no match for the flow, however, and was slowing but surely being sucked toward the lower falls.

In jumped one of the lifeguards (handily answering any questions we may have had about his ability to swim) and moments later he had the (very embarrassed) Japanese man back on dry land.

Misol Ha, where the trail takes you behind the spectacular cascade.


Check out the view from behind the spectacular Misol Ha waterfall in our video, below.


Agua Azul

About 15 minutes further down the road is Agua Azul (Blue Water), an even more famous series of waterfalls and cascades. True to Chiapas’ rainy reputation, the sky opened up and it poured for an hour as we arrived at Agua Azul so we pulled over and took a nap in the truck.

So many people visit Agua Azul that the trail from the parking lot up past the cascading pools is lined with food and souvenir sellers. During our visit the place was more like Agua Cafe, however, since the water had become so churned up and filled with silt on its way down the mountains that it looked like a foaming river of latte, not an inviting series of brilliant blue pools that appear to be melting due to the thick coating of mineral deposits draped over their edges. We guess that’s what postcards and imaginations (and the dry season) are for.

Agua Azul is usually a series of brilliant blue pools but rainy season rain can stir up enough sediment to turn the pools temporarily brown.

Agua Azul is usually a series of brilliant blue pools but rainy season rain can stir up enough sediment to turn the pools temporarily brown.

Agua Azul is usually a series of brilliant blue pools but rainy season rain can stir up enough sediment to turn the pools temporarily brown.


See the high water at Agua Azul in action in our video, below.



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Best of the Trans-Americas Journey 2010 – Best Adventures & Attractions

Welcome to Part 1 in our 3 Part “Best Of 2010″ series of posts. Part 1 is all about the top Adventures & Attractions of the year. Part 2 covers the Best Food & Beverages and Part 3 covers the Best Hotels of the year.

Yes, yes, end of year round-ups can be lame.

Or they can be a valuable chance for us to look back on the year that was and remember just how damn lucky we are. Done right, an end of year round-up can also be a valuable chance for you to get a quick hit of the best of the best tools, tricks, triumphs and truths that made our  Trans-Americas Journey in 2010 and, we hope, inspire you to hit the road yourself in 2011 (or 2012, no pressure).

Obviously, we’re going for a non-lame version here.

First, a few relevant stats:

In 2010 the Trans-Americas Journey…

…explored three countries (Mexico, Belize and Guatemala–though we’re still not through with the latter two)

…drove 12,662 miles (a slow year for us)

…spent $2,685 on fuel (yikes)

…had zero flat tires (for real)

…bounced over about a billion topes (vicious Latin American speed bumps)

We also spent SOME time outside of our truck doing and seeing exciting and awesome things. In no particular order, here are some of the adventures and activities that made all that time on the road even better. Enjoy!

 

Best campsite: The small camping area at Las Guacamayas Ecotourism Center in the Montes Azul Reserve in Chiapas, Mexico would have been fairly perfect even without the feathered and furry neighbors: grassy, flat, shaded and right near super clean showers and toilets.  But the place got even better in the morning when a flock of scarlet macaws (guacamayas in Spanish) had flown in for breakfast and were feasting in a tree literally right next to our tent. While other visitors were out tramping through the sticky jungle trying to spot macaws we spent the entire day in our camp chairs sipping coffee (then cold beers) and watching the vibrant birds stuff themselves silly. In the late afternoon a small family of howler monkeys showed up as well and decided to spend the night in a neighboring tree. The following morning their gnarly roars (which gives them their name) served as our wake up call.

 

Best random encounter with friends from home: We were minding our own business, enjoying a cup of coffee and setting up our computers for a morning of work at La Zebra on the beach in Tulum, Mexico. That’s when we saw them–two familiar figures cutting through the collection of bungalows to reach the beach. Could it really be our friends Joe and Pooja from New York City randomly walking through our little bungalow hotel? Incredibly, it was true and we spent the next few days thoroughly enjoying “The Zeeb” and the cherished company of our friends.

 

Best festival: The key elements of a classic Latin American festival are all in effect in abundance during the annual Festival of Santo Tomas (December 13-22) in Chichicatenango, Guatemala. You’ve got your costumed dancers, you’ve got your saints paraded around town on the shoulders of mere mortals, you’ve got our voladores who spiral down to the ground from the top of a very tall pole via ropes tied around their ankles, you’ve got your indigenous population wearing their finest (and impossibly colorful) traditional clothes, you’ve got your fall-down drunk men littering the central plaza, you’ve got your ear-splitting fireworks and bombas.

 

Best get-out-there-and-do-it clothing: It’s a tie. Our tried and true Patagonia Regulator R1 pullovers (Men’s and Women’s), which we refer to as “Magic Shirts,” continue to miraculously keep us cool or warm depending on our needs–even after more than a decade of hard use. They’re nearly indestructible–though Karen’s now has a melt hole in the sleeve where a fireworks ember landed on her during the Festival of Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango, Guatemala (see above). We also can’t do without our point6 wool socks which we wear every day in every way (city walking, hardcore hiking, padding around a chilly room). Early front runners for 2011? Our brand new ExOfficio Insect Shield pants, shirts and socks and multi-pocketed ScottEvest jackets and pants. Stay tuned…

 


Best adventure we never could have had without our truck:
We were very lucky to be invited to take part in the re-burial of Frans Blom and Trudy Duby, the founders of Na Bolom, a non-profit organization based in San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico which works to preserve the culture and customs of local indigenous groups while improving the basics like health care and education. There was only one thing: the beloved pair’s remains were going to be re-buried in a cemetery near the remote village of Na Ha, one of the few remaining Lacandon villages in the world. This is definitely 4X4 territory plus we’d need to bring our own camping gear and help transport other supplies for the group. Because we had the right wheels we were able to be there as Frans and Trudy took their rightful place next to a former Lacandon leader so, as the Lacandon villagers said, the three of them could continue the good conversations they used to have when they were all still alive.

 

Best border crossing: We were warned that crossing into Guatemala in your own vehicle can be a frustrating time consuming experience. And that’s if everything goes smoothly. With loins girded, we left Tapachula, Mexico and headed for the border post at Talisman, Guatemala where, to our shock, we were neither frustrated nor delayed. The whole process was pleasant, bribe-free and took less than one hour. Honestly, the biggest nuisance about crossing into Guatemala were the “helpers” hanging around offering to get you through the system for a “tip”. Hey, here’s a tip: crossing into Guatemala is no more complicated or harrowing than getting across any other border. Keep your documents and your smile in good working order and you’ll be fine.

 

Best parade: The gay pride parade in the colonial city of Merida in Yucatan State, Mexico was a colorful, flamboyant surprise and we loved that the costumed participants (some apparently marching with straight but supportive friends and family members by their sides) pranced right past the main Catholic cathedral in the center of town.

 

Best salt water SCUBA dive: So we never actually encountered the whale sharks we’d specifically come to Gladden Spit to see, but we did spend nearly an hour diving with a small group of bottlenose dolphins when we went diving with Hamanasi Adventure and Dive Resort in Hopkins off the southern coast of Belize.

 

Best fresh water SCUBA diving: Fill a massive lake at an altitude of 3,200 feet with warm gin-clear spring water, add SCUBA divers and you’ve got Laguna Media Luna in San Luis Potosi State, Mexico. With crystal clear visibility, relatively shallow depths and bath water temperatures this is as relaxing as SCUBA diving gets–and one of the most comfortable places to learn to dive, by the way (Centro de Buceo Media Luna offers guided dives and certification courses in the lake).

 

Best learning experience: As followers of our Journey know, we love Mexican food so we immediately said yes when Leobardo Espinosa, the gregarious and generous owner of Mesones Sacristia in Puebla, offered us a morning of cooking lessons with his executive chef. The menu was precise, simple and delicious (like most Mexican food) and consisted of chalupas (which bear NO resemblance to the Taco Bell abominations of the same name) with two different fresh salsas followed by mole over chicken. We gained a new-found respect for the blender and discovered that one of the most important ingredients in a traditional mole is also the oddest: a completely scorched corn tortilla.

 

Best waterfall: The Huasteca region of Mexico is a watery wonderland with waterfalls galore. We visited many of  them in 2010 but the standout, by far, was Cascada Tamul. It took us two tries to even find the thing–which is shocking since it’s more than 300 feet high. But finding the right road to access the waterfall was just the first step. Next we haggled over the price with local guide then helped him paddle and pull our canoe upstream for more than an hour before we finally laid eyes on the impressive wall of water.

 

Best uncaged animal encounter: It hardly seems possible but during our recent happy diversion to Antarctica and back we saw (first hand and at very close range) that penguins really are more adorable than you think. Also, killer whales have gotten a bum rap.

 

Best animal art encounter: One day they just appeared all over the streets of San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico. Twenty three life-size molds of jaguars each decorated by a different artist following a different theme. Dubbed “Jaguarte“  the pieces spent a couple of weeks in San Cristobal, then moved on to adorn other southern Mexican towns.

 

Best daytime sky event: This big bold double rainbow literally appeared out of the clear blue sky while we were driving near Merida in Yucatan State, Mexico. It was so strong and appeared to be so close that we felt like we might actually drive right through it.

 

Best nighttime sky event: The light-pollution-free skies above the small town of Chichicastenango, Guatemala were the perfect backdrop for December’s total eclipse of the moon. And, yes, now we’ve got that Bonnie Tyler song in our heads too…

 

Best concrete architectural attraction: In the jungly hills outside the tiny town of Xilitla in San Luis Potosi State, Mexico lies Las Pozas (the pools), a concrete fantasyland created by English eccentric Edward James between 1949 and 1984. The place is as crazy as it is creative with enormous concrete sculptures inspired by the delicate natural surroundings, steep stairways to nowhere and a generally pleasing amount of crumble and decay. There is, we venture, nowhere else like it on earth.

 


Best slumber party with a volcano:
Guatemala is lousy with volcanoes including some of the biggest and most active in the world, like Santiaguito. Actually an offshoot of neighboring Santa Maria volcano, Santiaguito is extremely active spewing out steam, ash, hot rocks and lava on a daily basis. Santiaguito put on a particularly lively show on April 26, 2010 with an ash plume more than four miles high which has sparked some volcanists to keep an even closer watch on the volcano. We wanted to keep a close watch on it too so we joined a Quetzaltrekker trip and hiked up to a viewpoint disturbingly close to the very active Santiaguito volcano where we camped with a view of the volcano’s dramatic shenanigans. Ash rained down on us, steam shot up into the air, more than once the volcano chucked out huge red-hot boulders and after night fell we could see glowing red magma.

 


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