1
Jul

Scoop Scoops: Our 5 Favorite Ice Cream Treats in Mexico

Posted on July 1st, 2010 :: Posted in Food & Drink, Mexico, Tips

July has been National Ice Cream Month ever since Ronald Reagan made it so during his presidency in 1984. He also decreed that the third Sunday in July is National Ice Cream Day. Anyway, to celebrate we thought we’d share the scoop on the best scoops we’ve found during our 14 months of road tripping through Mexico. We’re not even dessert people, but here in Mexico they definitely scream for ice cream. In no particular order, here are five of our favorite finds.

1. Every region of Mexico is known for some sort of signature food. The state of Michoacan is the undisputed ice-cream state. You’ll find ice cream shops throughout the country claiming to make Michoacan-style ice cream. But to get the real stuff, you’ve got to go to Michoacan—preferably Patzcuaro. Every day in this Pueblo Magico women set up ice cream stands under the arches that ring the lovely main plaza. Peruse the wares, but rest assured that every one of the dozens of flavors (corn, blackberry, chocolate, coffee, durian, guava, cheese) are homemade and totally natural. Full of real local fruit, real sugar (not corn syrup) and rich cream these treats (mere pennies per scoop) are rich and gooey. And addictive.

Mexico ice cream - Helados Torres in Hidalgo del Parral

The mouth-watering display at Helados Torres in Hidalgo del Parral, Mexico.

2. Hidalgo del Parral in Northern Mexico has many claims to fame. This is were Pancho Villa was gunned down, for example. And the city was instrumental in the country’s silver, gold, zinc and copper mining heyday. It’s also got one hell of an ice cream parlor. Right downtown off the Plaza de Armas you will find Helados Torres. Big, shiny, bright and featuring a display of homemade, all-natural gelato-esque delights like you’ve never seen, each vibrantly colored container topped with a pleasing display of the ingredients inside. Their ice cream (helado in Spanish) is as delicious to look at as it is to eat.

3. The Dulceria y Sorbeteria Colon on the Champs-Elysees-inspired Paseo Montejo in Merida inYucatan State is an institution where you’re likely to find families and first-daters enjoying massive portions of homemade creations that straddle the line between ice cream and sorbet—creamy and deeply flavored without the heaviness of cream or the shallow iciness of sorbet. The mango is so true-to-life in both color and flavor that it seems like you’re eating the miraculously whipped and frozen fruit itself.

Just one of the ice cream vendors selling an extremely unusual selection of flavors around the main plaza in Dolores Hidalgo, Mexico.

4. Most people who bother to stop in the town of Dolores Hidalgo come to see the site where father Miguel Hidalgo delivered his famous speech (grito) on September 16, 1810 helping to ignite the Mexican Independence movement. This is an awesome reason to come and a compelling piece of Mexican history—particularly given the fact that 2010 is the 20oth anniversary of the speech and Mexico’s Independence movement. But there’s one more unique offering in the town of Dolores de Hidalgo that shouldn’t be missed. The half dozen or so mobile carts in the town’s main plaza may look like regular ice cream vendors, but read the list of flavors–pig skin, corn, beer, shrimp, tequila, rose, mole–and you see why they’re unique. Once you’ve decided on an exotic flavor, your ice cream comes in an awesome freshly-made cone. A word of warning however: these vendors are dangerously generous and it’s easy to fill up just on the samples they offer of each flavor as you’re trying to make up your mind. We ended up with more than a dozen tasting spoons in our hands before we decided to try the mole ice cream (rich, salty, chocolaty and sweet with just a touch of spice).

5. Not all of our favorite Mexican ice cream is found on the street. At Hacienda Xcanantun outside Merida in inYucatan State, the gourmet fare is as much of a draw as the luxuriously restored hacienda hotel. You will enjoy your entire meal here but order their rich and subtly sweet roasted tomato tart for dessert and you’ll get two scoops of deliciously confusing (sweet/fresh/green/cream) homemade basil ice cream (made with basil from an organic garden in the neighboring village) on top. We recently heard restaurant critic Gael Greene says she “doesn’t like lawn clippings in her dessert” in reference to basil ice cream. Then again she color-coordinates her shirts to match her frumpilly antique hats.

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2
Apr

Horse Sense – Lagos de Moreno, Jalisco, Mexico

Posted on April 2nd, 2010 :: Posted in Horseback Riding, Mexico, Rodeo, video

This post is part 5 of 5 in the series Lagos de Moreno, Mexico

We’ve been raving about the horsemanship culture in Lagos de Moreno and while we were there we got to know some of the local trainers who are crafting amazing horses.

One of the most sought-after trainers of horses for use in competitive charreada (Mexican rodeo) is Juan Zermeno. Juan is a competitive, perfectly-attired guy with steely eyes and a better grasp on the English language than he lets on. More importantly, he speaks horse. Fluently.

To watch Juan ride any of the dozen or so horses that he’s training at any given time (some sent to him from the US) is to understand that the old saw about “horse and rider becoming one” isn’t always a ridiculous cliche. With a minimum of movement or effort or fuss Juan seems able to convince his horses to do whatever he wants them to do. It’s almost like brainwashing or telepathy.

Trainer Juan Zermeno working a new horse in the sliding stop.

Trainer Juan Zermeno in mid-spin.

Trainer Juan Zermeno makes it look easy to hang a perfect loop in the air right next to a horse's head.

At the other end of the spectrum is Eugenio Macias Guerra, a lanky cowboy with a mischievous, moustachioed smile that creeps up on you. Eugenio is not fancy. Eugenio is not showy. Eugenio is one of the gentlest horsemen we’ve ever seen. Unlike Juan, Eugenio doesn’t so much convince a horse to do what he wants it to do. He convinces the horse that it’s doing what it wants to do.

We saw Eugengio’s approach in full swing the day we watched him put a saddle (and himself) on the back of a mare for the very first time in her life. In a small cobbled together wooden ring Eugenio and the mare (wearing nothing more than a rope halter with a lead rope) came to an understanding. First trust, then comprehension at which point Eugenio was able to make the mare follow him, change direction and walk to him at will. She wanted to do it.

Trainer Eugenio Macias Guerra puts his weight on the back of this mare for the very first time and they both act like it was their idea.

Eugenio was so confident of the mare’s acceptance and understanding of these basic (but crucial) tasks that he let Karen into the ring with the horse for a few intense moments. Then it was time for the saddle pad which Karen put on the mare’s back, following Eugenio’s instructions about moving the pad around the mare’s body and never losing contact with her. Hey, it worked.

Saddle pad in place, Eugenio took over for the big stuff: the saddle and his own body. Forget any images you may have of fiercely bucking horses trying desperately to get out from under the saddle, fear and mistrust in their eyes. After a few minutes of quietly introducing the saddle to the mare Eugenio had it on her back and cinched without anything more rebellious than a twitch of her tail. Within minutes the mare was also quietly, tentatively moving around the ring with Eugenio dangling off the saddle.

It would have been anti-climactic if it hadn’t been so beautiful. The process was like watching a seduction and by the end of it it really did seem like the horse believed she had succeeded in getting that dang trainer to finally put a saddle on her just like she wanted.

Karen doing two things for the first time on horseback: riding a stallion and initiating a spin.

Yet another side of the rich world of horses in Lagos de Moreno is presided over by Jorge Guillermo who trains Friesians sent to him by owners around the world. His stable is 5 star (we’re fairly sure the horses drink Perrier) and the horses are 6 star. While it’s all way too fancy and rarified for every day riding, the animals are gorgeous and Jorge makes the most of all of their many wonderful natural attributes.

: Yes, it’s weird when the horse you’re riding is better educated than you are.

People from all over the world send their Friesian horses to Jorge Guillermo, a trainer in Lagos de Moreno, to learn tricks like this. Right after this picture was taken Karen got into the saddle and the horse stood up with her on its back.

The Friesian horses that are sent to Jorge Guillermo in Lagos de Moreno for training are treated like the supermodels that they are.

All of these trainers use different styles to achieve different goals with different types of horses. What they have in common, however, is deep knowledge and talent that they’re not selfish or possessive about. Like every horseman (and horsewoman) we met in Lagos, they want more people to ride better and they’re happy to share what they know. You learn a lot from just watching guys like Juan and Eugenio and Jorge. No, we can’t go out and do what they do. But now we know for sure that it’s possible.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pr8k1qWv3w0[/youtube] Watch the trainers in action

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29
Mar

Branding Day – Lagos de Moreno, Jalisco, Mexico

Posted on March 29th, 2010 :: Posted in Horseback Riding, Mexico, Rodeo, video

This post is part 4 of 5 in the series Lagos de Moreno, Mexico

We’ve said it before but the longer we linger in Mexico (12 months and counting for those keeping track at home…) the more it proves to be true: Mexicans can and will turn anything into a fiesta. And they’re willing to work for it.

And so we find ourselves invited to branding day at Rancho San Cayetano which is worked and occupied by Juan Alcaza and his lovely family. In addition to raising cattle, Juan’s beautiful wife, Lupita, helps run an equinotherapy program for physically and mentally challenged children at the beautiful ranch too.

Irons in the fire.

On this day, roughly 50 cows needed to be branded. It’s a job that calls for many helpers so Juan put the call out to his cowboy buddies, including our friends Pancho and Lena from Hacienda El Ahito, and everyone turned up with their horses to lend a hand.

Catching cows is harder than it looks.

Eric got busy taking pictures and video of the action and Karen tried to keep the cattle running in the right direction once each one was let out into the branding area. Then the “professionals” took over.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_yjjClAFmg[/youtube]

To be honest, the crew of charros had mixed success rates with the ropes, urged on by Juan Alcazas shouts of “La cabeza! La cabeza!” (The head! The head!) which is where the first rope needs to land. The second rope needs to catch the back legs, then the cow is tipped onto its side and the branding crew (lead by Lena) kicks into high gear, giving the cow as fast and efficient a branding as possible.

Once the cow is safely and securely on the ground it's ready for branding.

Catching cows is harder than it looks.

Each number identifies the owner of the cow and the cow's place in the herd.

The number being branded onto each cow will help Juan identify it.Each cow’s physical characteristics were meticulously noted down along with its new number as each one was branded. It’s like a cow census.

Juan Zermeno putting his rope where it belongs. This time.

Branding is done as quickly as possible and the cows are up and running back to the pasture in a matter of minutes.

Our friend Pancho (the center cowboy) throws a loop.

Once all of the cows had (finally) been branded, we retired–dusty, thirsty and hungry–to the lovely hacienda on Rancho San Cayetano where a huge barbeque of beef and chorizo satisfied the hunger part and free-flowing tequila and cerveza satisfied the thirsty part. No one really minded being dusty.