Trust us when we tell you that most towns located within 30 minutes of a border crossing are best seen in your rear view mirror. But San Ignacio has more than its share of Caribbean charm (festive colors, wooden bungalow architecture, creole accents, a languid pace) and it makes a great base camp for archaeological adventures in the area. Here’s what to do and where to sleep (no matter your budget) around San Ignacio.

What remains of what the Mayans built at the Xunantunich archaeological site near San Ignacio, Belize.

Archaeological adventures around San Ignacio

The Xunantunich archaeological site is just  just a short taxi ride from town. The name of this Mayan city, believed to date from the Classic period (200-900 AD), means stone woman in reference to a female ghost that’s said to wander around the place.

The Xunantunich archaeological site in Belize.

Xunantunich is a compact site with pleasant grounds and a handful of excavated structures–enough to pass a pleasant couple of hours and a great place to hang out on top of a temple and enjoy the park-like atmosphere. We had the place to ourselves, except for the stone woman ghost, of course.

Plaza 2 in the Xunantunich archaeological site in Belize.

Getting to the Xunantunich site

This site is on the outskirts of San Ignacio, but you have to cross the Mopan River on a very small ferry to get there. “Big truck” was all the ferryman said as we drove onto his tiny ferry for a ride across.

Our big truck crossing the Mopan River on a very small ferry to get to the Xunantunich archaeological site.

See our journey over the Mopan river to reach the Xunantunich Mayan archaeological site in Belize in our video,below.

San Ignacio is the gateway to a host of other outdoor adventures including the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave, the Mountain Pine Ridge Area which includes the Caracol archaeological site, Barton Creek Cave, butterfly farms, horseback riding, wonderful hiking and more.

An exciting new development in the area is access to a brand new cave. Called Offering Cave, local operators told us the cave is an even more spectacular version of the ATM cave with its own ritual remains of ancient Mayan ceremonies and gorgeous cave formations. Tours should be available now.

Hotels in San Ignacio, Belize

San Ignacio also offers a range of budget accommodation options–a refreshing surprise in Belize which can sometimes be too pricey if you’re on a travel budget. We stayed at Nefry’s Retreat which has four peaceful, clean rooms with WiFi and A/C for around US$20. Not a rock bottom price, but it’s value for money. Located about a five minute walk from the bustle of the town’s main drag, we really liked the homey feel too.

Under construction when we were there (but open now) was a brand new very budget-friendly dorm with A/C located above the Mayawalk Tours office on the main street through town. The tour company has also added a new restaurant. Speaking of eating, be sure to have breakfast at Pop’s. This tiny diner-like institution is affordable and tasty but most of all it’s a magnet for the locals who sit around and gossip. Plus the coffee just keeps on coming…

One of the nicest pools in the area is tucked among private cottages in the back of the sprawling property at Windy Hill Resort. The infinity edge pool is on a small hill which means you get stunning views while you cool off. The 25 cottages at Windy Hill are not fancy, but they are solid value for money in the mid-range and perfect for groups, families or couples after a bit of privacy.

We liked owner Bob Hales right away, in part because he and his wife are from New Orleans. Even though it’s been years since they’ve lived there he still has his southern charm intact. We also like the love they’ve poured into this place, building it up from nothing but jungle over the past 25+ years. Opened in 1987, it was one of the first lodging options in the area.

Our room at Ka’ana Boutique Resort in San Ignacio, Belize.

Now for the very top end, which is surprisingly high. Ka’ana Boutique Resort manages to give the look and feel of the world’s chicest jungle lodges without the remote location (it’s just a few miles from town on the main paved road). The ambitious owners created a very world class design-centric boutique hotel with all the bells and whistles: great restaurant, wine cellar, festive bar, freshwater pool, a roster of top-notch tours, and a full-service spa that also offers the unusual and powerful services of a Mayan Shaman who puts her intuitiveness, spiritual training, and very strong hands to work after conducting a brief but revealing interview with you to determine what parts (physical and emotional) need her attention most.

The Mopan River rushing by in front of Mahogany Hall Boutique Resort near San Ignacio, Belize.

Another luxe option in the nearby village of Bullet Tree Falls is Mahogany Hal; Boutique Resort, where the combination of sweeping architecture, polished wood, ample breeze, and its riverside location give it a distinctly Southern plantation feel. That’s no accident. The gregarious owner is from the South. If you’re lucky he’ll take you tubing down the Mopan River.

Here’s more about travel in Belize