Bahia Bustamante, in the Patagonia region of southern Argentina, offers history, coastal landscapes, wildlife of all sorts, the best petrified forest we’ve ever seen, and one of the most unique vineyards in all of Argentina. Here’s why you should spend a few days exploring this wild and welcoming place that’s been called a “secret Galapagos”.

Bahia Bustamante: From seaweed city to secret Galapagos

Like many immigrants in the 1900s, Lorenzo Soriano made his way from Italy to Argentina. He eventually began making a hair cream that required an imported emulsifying element. When that ingredient became unavailable, Lorenzo headed south in search of seaweed that could be processed as a substitute emulsifier.

He found what he was looking for in a scenic bay on the Atlantic about 1,000 miles (1,600 km) south of Buenos Aires. Lorenzo convinced the Argentine government to give him a piece of the coastline, including the bay, which was called Rotten Cove because of the stench of rotting seaweed.

The bay was surrounded by massive sheep farms that produced export-quality merino wool, which was the dominant agricultural product at the time. But Lorenzo turned his attention to the sea and began developing a seaweed-harvesting business.

The seaweed operation at Bahia Bustamante (as it was renamed) became successful enough for Lorenzo to buy up some of the neighboring sheep ranches. At its height, he employed and housed hundreds of workers and their families who lived in their own remote seaweed city, complete with a school and a church. At one point, wooden street signs were created, giving the town’s dusty dirt lanes the names of various types of seaweed.

Then the Argentine economy went bad. Then Lorenzo made a dredging mistake that yanked a lot of seaweed out by the roots. Then the seaweed business failed.

Descendants of Don Lorenzo Soriana eventually pivoted to eco-tourism as a way to protect the Bahia Bustamante property that covers more than 200,000 acres (81,000 hectares) and repurpose some of the original buildings. Bahia Bustamante is now run by Lorenzo’s grandson, Matias Soriano. Matias did not grow up in Bahia Bustamante, but he did spend time there and says he has many memories of the place and of his grandfather, who is buried in a small family cemetery on the property.

More importantly, Matias has a deep commitment to protecting the land and marine environments of Bahia Bustamante, and it’s working. Since opening as an eco-tourism destination, Bahia Bustamante has been called a “secret Galapagos”.

After multiple visits, we know the famous Galapagos Islands in Ecuador very well and, honestly, we have yet to find any other place on earth that truly rivals the original Galapagos Islands. However, Bahia Bustamante offers an exhilarating density and variety of wildlife and stunning natural beauty that will thrill any nature-loving traveler.

In 2008, Bahia Bustamante was included in the first Marine National Park in Argentina. In 2015, Bahia Bustamante was included within the Patagonia Azul Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO initiative that protects 7.7 million acres (3.1 million hectares) of land (42% of the reserve) and sea (58% of the reserve).

This biosphere includes 185 miles (300 km) of coastline, and environments that are home to 31 species of land mammals, 36 species of marine mammals, 67 species of seabirds, 65 species of terrestrial birds, 83 species of fish, 130 species of algae, and 197 species of marine invertebrates, plus archaeological and paleontological areas, a petrified forest, and historical resources like European ship wrecks.

What to do at Bahia Bustamante

Guests of Bahia Bustamante Lodge have a wide range of activities to choose from, all scheduled based on tides, weather, and Matias’ knowledge of the land and its wild inhabitants.

See thousands of Magellanic penguins

Of the 16 seabirds that breed on the Argentine coast, 13 of them choose Bahía Bustamante as a nesting site. This includes Magellanic penguins. While there are many places to see penguin rookeries in the southern reaches of Argentina and Chile, few of them offer the chance to have the rookery to yourself. But because Penguin Island is only open to guests of Bahia Bustamante Lodge, your group may be the only humans there. This was the case when we visited Penguin Island.

Each year, thousands of pairs of breeding Magellanic penguins return to Penguin Island to mate, lay eggs, and hatch chicks. Visits to Penguin Island are done at low tide so that guests can stroll along winding trails through the low brushy landscape on the island.  But watch your step!

During Magellanic penguin breeding season (roughly mid-September to mid-April), you’ll be walking through the rookery past shallow penguin nests dug into the earth under shrubs and other types of cover that provide shade and a modicum of protection from winged predators. During our visit in December, we saw freshly hatched chicks and some eggs as well as many penguin parents that waddled and honked around us.

Cruise the coastline

On days when winds are low and seas are calm, boat trips are offered, sometimes with Matias at the helm. These trips are a great way to cruise the coastline and pass islands to spot land animals and marine animals.

During our boat trip, we saw a lot of Magellanic penguins, our first dolphin gull, giant petrels, some sea lions (they mob the place in January), Magallanes cormorants, imperial cormorants (some of them nesting with chicks), a few great egrets, royal terns, some flightless steamer ducks with chicks, Magellanic oystercatchers, crested ducks, great grebes, white-tufted grebes, and snowy sheathbills.

4X4 in search of culture and wildlife

One day, we scrambled into a 4X4 vehicle and set out to explore Cabo Aristizábal within the Bahia Bustamante property. A highlight was the chance to walk through an area covered in shells. Matias explained that the spot is an active archaeological site where experts believe original nomadic inhabitants harvested and ate shellfish, leaving behind the empty shells–and rudimentary tools, including modified petrified wood and stones. History was literally crunching under our feet.

Along the way, we also spotted a gray fox and an impressively large lesser horned owl.

Our 4X4 excursion got an extra dose of adventure from the weather when it started raining. This quickly turned the clay-heavy dirt roads into a muddy, slippery, treacherous mess. At one point, we had to push the 4X4 to get it through the muck so we could return to the lodge.

While wildlife and wild vistas are to be expected during a visit to Bahia Butstamante, we were surprised to find outdoor art. French artist Christian Boltanski, whose work has been the subject of major worldwide exhibitions and whose sculptures have been installed from Japan to New York City to the island of Mallorca, created a metal sculpture that harnesses the wind to produce sounds that mimic whale calls. It’s now perched on a windy outcrop on Cabo Aristizábal.

Explore an epic petrified forest

The petrified forest located 11 miles (18 km) from Bahia Bustamante Lodge is estimated to be more than 60 million years old. Unlike most petrified forests, which are operated as parks that are open to the public, this one is private. This means no crowds and, more importantly, no pilfering.

This became apparent the moment we arrived at the petrified forest and found a large area covered with billions of pieces of petrified trees. Some pieces are small. Some are recognizable as large sections of a tree trunk.

Over time, minerals in the petrified wood have created a kaleidoscope of color in some of the pieces, which gives the impression of rough jewels scattered about. As we wandered around the area, we were struck by the untouched nature of the place and the sheer abundance of petrified treasures.

This stood in stark contrast to the public petrified forests we’ve visited in the US and in other parts of Latin America, where it’s evident that visitors have pocketed pieces over the years.

Want more? Swimming, bird watching, tide-pooling, horseback riding, hiking, trekking, mountain biking, and sheep ranch and farm visits can also be arranged.

Don’t miss sunrise and sunset

Sunsets turn the sky above Bahia Bustamante Lodge pink, but it’s the sunrise over the water that we found most spectacular.

One delightfully calm and warm morning, we got up for sunrise, made a cup of coffee, and sat on the chairs in front of our cabin to watch the show. We were soon joined by a bold rhea (an ostrich-like bird also called a choique). This species is normally quite skittish and most often seen running away on its powerful legs, wings flapping crazily as it flees. This rhea, however, wandered calmly past us, nibbling at the grass as the sun turned everything rose gold before rising for real.

Eating and sleeping at Bahia Bustamante Lodge

Some original structures from the property’s days as a seaweed harvesting operation have been reimagined as shared facilities for guests at Bahia Bustamante Lodge, including an oceanfront building that’s now a communal area and restaurant.

Some of the original workers’ accommodations have been renovated into cabins for visitors. Rooms at Bahia Bustamante Lodge fall into four categories. All are simple, modern, clean, and comfortable with Wi-Fi but no TV.

Rates for the four two-bedroom Sea Front cabins are all-inclusive and include all meals (minus beverages) and two tours per day (English-speaking guides are available).

We stayed in the Pato Vapor Sea Front cabin, which is named after the endemic flightless steamer duck (pato vapor in Spanish) that lives at Bahia Bustamante as part of its extremely limited range.

Our cabin was right on the sea with big windows to maximize the view. The cabin also featured a modern bathroom, a living room, and a kitchenette with a minifridge and coffee and tea necessities. It was tidy, cozy, welcoming, and relaxing, and much more stylish and luxurious than we expected in such a remote location.

Rates for the four Marine Lofts are also all-inclusive. These spacious rooms offer a desk, a living room, a double-sided wood-burning stove, a small kitchen, and a modern bathroom.

The five Steppe View cabins are located just behind the Sea Front cabins. Rates for these cabins are not all-inclusive and do not include meals or tours. However, Steppe Cabins have kitchens that are equipped for self-catering. And guests can also buy individual tours or individual meals as needed. Bahia Bustamante has a shared BBQ area as well.

The home of Bahia Bustamante founder Don Lorenzo Soriano has been reimagined as the Vineyard Suite. It features a large bedroom, a large living room, and a large bathroom. This room also has a private veranda with sea views and a view of the seaside vineyard. Planted in 2018 by the folks behind the innovative and irreverent Ver Sacrum winery in Mendoza, this expanding vineyard is said to be one of the southernmost in the world, and it’s planted so close to the ocean’s edge that the water nearly laps up onto the vines.

You can also book the entire “town” for large private gatherings, retreats, or celebrations.

La Prove restaurant is where a hearty breakfast is served each morning. Lunch and dinner (included for guests on all-inclusive rates, minus beverages) are set three-course meals. Expect hyper-local ingredients, including lamb, guanaco, seaweed, fish, seafood, and vegetables from Bahia Bustamante’s biodynamic garden.

Sustainability at Bahia Bustamante

Solar energy provides most of the power and hot water needs of Bahia Bustamante Lodge. Food waste is composted and used in the biodynamic garden. Grey water is used for irrigation.

Recycling is pervasive. Guests are given refillable water bottles to reduce plastic use. Organic bath amenities are provided. A reforestation program has planted more than 1,000 trees so far. Locals are employed whenever possible. And the lodge often hosts scientists conducting research in the area.

Bahia Bustamante travel tips

Bahia Bustamante is now part of Parque Patagonia Azul. Learn more about Argentina’s latest marine and land park in our full post about Parque Patagonia Azul.

Guests at Bahia Bustamante Lodge must be 10 years old or older, except those in the self-catering Steppe Cabins.

All room rates include three meals per day (minus beverages) and all activities except rates in the Steppe Cabins, which are self-catering.

Bahia Bustamante Lodge is open from October 1 through the Easter holiday each year.

Here’s more about travel in Argentina

Here’s more about Patagonia Travel

Here’s more about Adventure Travel in the Americas