Stay Longer, Play Longer – Parque Patagonia & Cueva de las Manos, Argentina
New trails and new campgrounds, a fantastic new interpretive center and planetarium, increasing wildlife, a lovely lodge, and ancient Cueva de las Manos cave art mean you could easily spend a week in this remote and wild park in southern Argentina. Here’s how to explore Parque Patagonia.

Epic landscapes are a hallmark of Parque Patagonia in southern Argentina.
How to explore Parque Patagonia in Argentina
We visited Parque Patagonia for the first time in 2020. At that time, there were no campgrounds, one hostel, just a handful of trails, and, of course, the nearly 10,000-year-old cave art at Cueva de las Manos, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999. We enjoyed our visit–especially seeing a puma one evening on our way back to the hostel from Cueva de las Manos–but we’d pretty much done everything there was to do in just two days.

We spotted this female puma one evening during our first visit to Parque Patagonia and since then the puma population has increased.
What is Parque Patagonia and what can I do in the park?
Parque Patagonia is a protected area with public access created in Santa Cruz Province in the Patagonia region of southern Argentina. Landscapes include steppe grasslands, canyons, mesas, and wetlands. Much of the land was used to raise livestock before it was protected. As the habitat returns to its natural, ungrazed state, native species return as well, including some wild animals that are being reintroduced to this habitat after years of absence.
The Rewilding Argentina Foundation–an offshoot of Tompkins Conservation, the conservation powerhouse created by Doug Tompkins and Kristine Tompkins that has purchased, restored, and donated hundreds of thousands of acres of ranchland as parks in Argentina and Chile–has been working to protect nature and create Patagonia National Park, including a part dontated to the National Parks Administration to create Parque Patagonia in Argentina which was intended to be connected to Patagonia National Park in Chile. However, politics and red tape have gotten in the way thus far.
The tiny site-specific Cueva de las Manos provincial park is also within Parque Patagonia, but this is overseen by the Santa Cruz provincial government.

Welcome to Parque Patagonia, where land and species are being rehabilitated and returned to their natural state.
The Cañadon Pinturas entrance serves the area where many of the trails are located as well as the lodge, the developed campgrounds, the interpretive center and planetarium, and hiking access to Cueva de las Manos. Portal Cañadon Caracoles also offers driving access to Cueva de las Manos along with the Cañadon Caracoles campground and trails.
The La Ascención entrance, 59 miles (95 km) from the Cañadon Pinturas entrance, is located along the shore of Lago Buenos Aires between the towns of Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos. The La Ascención entrance gives access to the lake, a few short trails (including the Cerro Calle trail and the Laguna Koa trail), as well as longer trails that climb Meseta Lago Buenos Aires and travel across the meseta to the El Sauco entrance, which is the most remote.
Most of the activities and facilities in this post are accessed via the Cañadon Pinturas entrance to Parque Patagonia (6,000 ARS / about US$4.25 per person, credit cards accepted, no pets allowed). Now, here are terrific ways to explore Parque Patagonia.
Spot wildlife in Parque Patagonia
It’s worth bringing a pair of binoculars with you to Parque Patagonia, and always keep your eyes peeled for wildlife.

During your visit to Parque Patagonia, you’ll see plenty of rhea (aka choique), an ostrich-like flightless bird that thrives here.

Groups of guanacos, the wild cousin of the llama, are also commonly seen in Parque Patagonia, including some collared individuals like this one.

Another shot of the female puma we saw in Parque Patagonia.
Go hiking in Parque Patagonia
Most trailheads have dry toilets and a small parking area. Bring water, sunscreen, a hat, good hiking shoes, and any other necessities. There’s little shade and no facilities, though there is a small cafe in the interpretive center and a small snack shop near the La Señelada campground near the interpretive center. Currently, there are about a dozen trails in the park that are easily reached from the Cañadon Pinturas entrance. Here’s where we went hiking in Parque Patagonia.
Cañadon Caracoles trail
This mostly flat gravel and dirt trail travels into the Cañadon Caracoles canyon and hikers can continue in as far as they like before turning around and walking back out.

Dramatic Cañadon Caracoles is a great place for a hike in Parque Patagonia.

On the Cañadon Caracoles trail in Parque Patagonia.

Cañadon Caracoles.
The Cañadon Caracoles area is accessed via the Cañadon Caracoles entrance located 20 miles (33 km) south of the Cañadon Pinturas entrance.
La Guanaca trail up to Cerro Amarillo
The La Guanaca trail is a 3.7-mile (6-km) round trip in and out walk that takes hikers up to the top of Cerro Amarillo.

A view down Cañadon del Rio Punturas from the La Guanaca trail.
This trail is accessed via the Cañadon Pinturas entrance.
Check out the condor that paid us a brief visit when we reached the top of Cerro Amarillo in our video below.
Los Balcones trail
When we finished the La Guanaca trail, we decided to tack on the neighboring Los Balcones trail, which is a 1-mile (1.7-km) stroll through steppe grasslands.

The Rio Pinturas seen from the Los Balcones trail.
This trail is accessed via the Cañadon Pinturas entrance.

The dark openings at the bottom of the sheer rock wall across the canyon are the Cueva de las Manos site.
Tierra de Colores trail
The Tierra de Colores trail was one of the few trails open to visitors to Parque Patagonia in 2020. The trailhead is very close to the Cañadon Pinturas entrance, and because the trail is short and sweet, many visitors choose to hike this trail immediately after they enter the park.

Splashes of natural pigment seen from a vantage point along the Tierra de Colores trail.

The colors of the earth along the Tierra de Colores trail are so vivid they almost seem artificial.

More technicolor beauty along the Tierra de Colores trail.
This trail is accessed via the Cañadon Pinturas entrance.
Get a bird ‘s-eye view of the vibrant natural colors in the Tierra de Colores area of Parque Patagonia in our drone video below.
Cerro La Calle & Lagoa Koa trails
From the La Asuncion entrance, drive a few miles to an old building with a small parking area to find the trailhead for the Lagoa Koa trail.

The volcanic columnar formations of the Cerro la Calle formation.
This trail is accessed via the La Ascención entrance.
Bajada de los Toldos and Cueva de las Manos trail
During our first visit to Parque Patagonia in 2020, we hiked to Cueva de las Manos. After a one-hour drive from Posta de los Toldos, we reached the trailhead for the Bajada de los Toldos trail and began an extremely steep descent into the canyon. At the bottom, we crossed a bridge, then climbed up the other side on the Cueva de las Manos trail to reach the site itself.

The beginning of the Bajada de los Toldos trail to Cueva de las Manos.

Nearing the bottom of the Bajada de los Toldos trail to Cueva de las Manos.

We spotted this horned owl while hiking the Bajada de los Toldos trail to Cuevas de las Manos.
See ancient art in Cueva de las Manos
Cueva de las Manos (Cave of the Hands) is home to some of the oldest and best-preserved examples of ancient cave art in the Americas. Located in Cañadon Rio de Pinturas, Cueva de las Manos is a series of shallow open-mouth caves in a rockface high above the canyon floor.

Still-vibrant ancient cave art at Cueva de las Manos adds culture to your visit to Parque Patagonia.
Cueva de las Manos was first explored by archaeologists in the 1960s, and scientific work is ongoing. The caves were made a National Historic Monument in 1993, and Cueva de las Manos was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999.
We were told that there are 829 known handprints at Cueva de las Manos. Some hands are small, some hands are large. Only 30 of them depict right hands. And a few of the hands have six fingers.

This composite shows some of the different styles of cave art that you can see at Cueva de las Manos, including hands, animals, geometric shapes, and images created by dipping the foot of a rhea in paint (bottom left).

A guide explains the ancient cave art at Cueva de las Manos. And, yes, all visitors must wear a hard hat.
Though there are a series of caves in the escarpment, most of the art is on the outer rock wall protected by overhangs. Despite its age and relative exposure to the elements, the cave art at Cueava de las Manos is amazingly vibrant and distinct.

The colors are so bright and the images are so distinct that it’s hard to believe that the cave art at Cueva de las Manos was created thousands of years ago.
Pro tips: In general, this site is busiest in the afternoon. You don’t need a flashlight to see this cave art. And if you don’t want to hike to Cueva de los Manos (see above), you can drive to Cueva de las Manos via the Cañadon Caracoles entrance, which is 20 miles (33 km) south of the Cañadon Pinturas entrance. If you’re arriving from the south, you can also access Cuevas de las Manos from the town of Bajo Caracoles which is 45 miles (73 km) to the south.
See more in our photo essay from Cueva de las Manos.
Visit the interpretation center and planetarium
Be prepared to have your breath taken away by the interpretation center and planetarium inside Parque Patagonia.

The striking interpretive center in Parque Patagonia is also home to an impressive planetarium.

The planetarium in Parque Patagonia brings the sky above the park to life.
Entrance to the interpretation center and the planetarium is free, and this facility also has a coffee shop and a small gift shop selling high-quality handmade items, tees, tote bags, notebooks, and more.
Witness rewilding in action
The work of the Rewilding Argentina Foundation in Parque Patagonia, with the support of the Freyja Foundation, focuses on two main areas of conservation: reclamation and restoration of ecosystems to their natural state, and the reintroduction or “rewilding” of the animal species that are endemic to that ecosystem. At Parque Patagonia, travelers have a unique opportunity to see those efforts in action.
Guided day trips to the El Unco biological station, located within park boundaries, can be arranged, including transportation, a guide, and a box lunch. Visitors will meet conservationists and learn, firsthand, about monitoring and restoration work and what’s been achieved in Parque Patagonia so far.

Conservationists at the El Unco station restored a wetlands area of Cañadon Caracoles, which brought back native species like flamingos and nutria.
Emmanuel explaining wildlife tracking equipment at the El Unco conservation station.
Emmanuel brought tracking equipment to help us spot small and well-camouflaged Wolfson’s viscachas.

There are three Wolfson’s viscachas in this picture. Can you spot them?
Where can I sleep in Parque Patagonia?
Accommodations in Parque Patagonia include options for travelers looking for a hotel and those looking for a lovely place to pitch a tent or park an RV.
La Posta de los Toldos lodge
When Parque Patagonia opened, the former home of the owner of the land when it was still the Estancia Toldos ranch was turned into a hostel to serve the park’s initial visitors. La Posta de los Toldos hostel opened in November of 2019, and that’s where we stayed during our first visit to the park.

The Posta de los Toldos lodge is a lovely place to stay while exploring Parque Patagonia.
Each evening, an informative presentation about the park (in English and in Spanish) is offered in the hotel’s library. Don’t skip it.
Camping in Parque Patagonia
Five new campgrounds can be accessed via the Cañadon Pinturas entrance to Parque Patagonia. Togeter, they offer 28 tent sites, some with wind breaks and some with roof coverings as well. All camping areas have dry toilets, and most have running water and hot and cold showers. The El Mollar campground, located next to the lodge, also has a cabin-like shared shelter with tables and chairs, a wood-burning stove, and bathrooms with flush toilets.
All campgrounds are free, except for El Mollar where campers are charged 10,000 ARS (about US$7) per person per night. RVs can be parked at the El Mollar campground and at the La Señalada campground. However, there are no electrical hookups or dump stations.
You can drive into all of the campgrounds except for La Confluencia Campground, which requires a 6-mile (10-km) hike in and out, and the Del Rio campground, which you also must hike into and out of. Both are located at the bottom of the Cañadon Rio Pinturas.
There are four other campgrounds in other sectors of this park. All campgrounds, including the free ones, must be reserved at least 15 days in advance.
When should I visit Parque Patagonia?
Parque Patagonia is open from October to April during South American summer when temperatures are milder. However, winds can be stronger during the summer. The landscape was much greener and there were many flowering plants during our second visit to this park in December than it was in the month of February when we visited Parque Patagonia for the first time.
How do I get to Parque Patagonia?
Parque Patagonia is remote, but the effort to get there is well-rewarded.

A stretch of scenic Ruta 43 with Lago Buenos Aires, the Andes, and Chile in the distance near the La Ascención entrance to Parque Patagonia.
If you’re not driving Ruta 40, you’ll have to fly into the city of Comodoro Rivadavia (the largest city in southern Argentine Patagonia), on the Atlantic Coast. Rent a vehicle there, then drive a bit more than five hours southeast for 284 miles (457 km) to reach the park. A 4X4 vehicle is not required to visit this park, which has well-maintained gravel roads within its boundaries.

Ruta 40 is mostly paved, however, road conditions still vary and can include new pavement, graded gravel, washboarded gravel, and broken-down pavement dotted with giant potholes that must be avoided. Always drive with caution.

This is what a traffic jam looks like in the town of Perito Moreno near Parque Patagonia.
Just want to visit Parque Patagonia for the day on an organized tour with transportation and a guide? Here are Parque Patagonia day trip options.
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