At 15,682 feet (4,780 meters), the Paso Agua Negra border between Chile and Argentina is the highest border crossing in the world (paved or unpaved). The highest paved border crossing in the world is nearby Paso San Francisco–located about 150 miles (240 km) north and just 177 feet (54 meters) lower than Paso Agua Negra. We crossed the spectacular Paso San Francisco border, however, the Paso Agua Negra border eluded us–primarily because this high-altitude border crossing is usually open for less than four months a year and our timing has never been right–until now. Welcome to the spectacular 93rd border crossing of our Trans-Americas Journey road trip which delivered narrow canyons, steep mountains splashed with mineral-rich colors, arid hillsides, green river valleys, and very high altitudes which made the journey over Paso Agua Negra a very epic drive.

From: Vicuña, Chile

To: San José de Jáchal, Argentina

Date: December 19, 2023

Lay of the land: Drive about 53 miles (86 km) west of Vicuña on paved Chile Ruta 41 and you’ll reach the Chilean border facilities. Past that point, the mountains close in and the hillsides steepen as the highway continues for another 18 miles (29 km) to the La Laguna Reservoir where the pavement ends (look for one of our Trans-Americas Journey stickers on the sign at the reservoir that says “Fin De Pavamiento”). After passing the reservoir, it’s a steep 31 mile (50 km) climb on gravel to Paso Agua Negra itself (look for another one of our Trans-Americas Journey stickers on a sign at the pass).

The pass, at 15,682 feet (4,780 meters), marks the physical border between Chile and Argentina. Heading down from the pass into Argentina, the road becomes Ruta Nacional 150 and descends for 21 miles (34 km) to where the pavement begins again. From there, it’s another 33 miles (53 km) on pavement to the Argentinean border facilities. You’ll pass a Gendarmería (National Police) checkpoint along the way.

From the Argentinean border facilities, it’s another 40 miles (61 km) to the town of San José de Jáchal passing the Cuesta del Viento and traveling through the Quebrada de Jachal (Jachal Canyon). In this stretch, the pavement was in very bad condition and the road was barely more than one lane in many places. This road is also very windy with many blind corners and narrow tunnels. Drive slowly and use your horn.

Enjoy scenes from this epic drive in the video we shot during our journey over the Paso Agua Negra border between Chile and Argentina. As usual, this drivelapse footage was taken by the Brinno camera that’s always attached to our dashboard.

 

Elapsed time: Though this crossing requires many hours of driving, border facilities themselves were very efficient. It took about 10 minutes to get stamped out of Chile and to have the Chilean Temporary Importation Permit (TIP) for our truck canceled. At the Argentinean border facilities, it took another 10 minutes to enter the country (remember that Argentina no longer stamps your passport) and to receive an Argentinean TIP for our truck.

Days given: 90 days for us and eight months on the TIP for our truck

Fees: none

Services: bathrooms are available at the Chile facilities

Vehicle insurance needed: You must have third-party insurance for your vehicle to drive legally in Chile and Argentina. We bought a long-term policy that covers us in the MERCOSUR countries of Argentina, Chile, Perú, Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Bolivia. Additionally, Chile requires that drivers carry supplemental insurance called Soapex. Not all MERCOSUR policies include Soapex and you can purchase it in advance online.

Where to fill up: On the Chile side, the last place to get fuel is in the town of Vicuña. On the Argentina side, fuel is available in the town of Las Flores which is just beyond the Argentinean border facilities.

Need to know: This is not an integrated border and it’s not a 24-hour border. This border is also closed for most of the year except for during the South American summer months when the pass is clear of snow. Even during the summer, this border can be closed unexpectedly due to bad weather. A multi-billion dollar plan to build an 8.6 mile (14 km) tunnel beneath Agua Negra to bypass the high peaks and allow this border crossing to remain open for more months during the year was put on hold in 2022. Check the status of the Paso Agua Negra border in Chile here. And check the status of the Paso Agua Negra border in Argentina here. There is no cell or Wi-Fi service and no fuel stations or services of any kind along this route. When we crossed this border in mid-December, the paved roads and the dirt roads were all in good condition but that is not always the case. Remember that the sun and the wind are both strong at these altitudes. And speaking of altitude…this is a serious drive with massive altitude gain in just a few hours. Whether you’re crossing from Vicuña (at 2,326 feet/709 meters) or crossing from San José de Jáchal (at 3,839 feet/1,170 meters), you’re going to feel the altitude as you climb thousands of feet to the pass. Also of note is that the Chilean and Argentine border facilities are separated by 104 miles (167 km) which is far more “no-man’s land” than we have ever encountered.

Overall border rating: Scenic and swift since no cargo trucks are allowed to use the Agua Negra border and private vehicles are few and far between. The day we crossed we saw a total of nine other vehicles traveling from Chile to Argentina and we saw just four vehicles crossing in the opposite direction.

 

Here’s more about travel in Argentina

Here’s more about travel in Chile

Here are more Epic Drives