To say Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge is remote is an understatement. Located in Northern Costa Rica less than 10 miles (16 km) from the border with Nicaragua, travelers usually get here as part of group tours. Because we’re on a road trip (and we hate group tours) we drove ourselves to Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge from Rincon de la Vieja National Park, but that doesn’t mean it was easy.
The humble entrance to Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in northern Costa Rica.
Though the area is reached via a numbered highway (#4 to be exact) it was well into the process of crumbling apart leaving gaping potholes in the beleaguered pavement which required radical swerving and slow speeds to avoid the most cavernous among them. Welcome to Costa Rica where even the numbered highways will kill your car.
There are no trails in Costa Rica’s Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge so boats are the only way to go.
After such a jarring overland journey it was a relief to get into a boat. There are no trails in the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge because it’s made up of 12 lagoons connected by waterways and Lake Caño Negro which is fed by the Rio Frio. Volcanoes loom in the distance (including Tenorio, Maravillas and Arenal). Animals surround you. And there’s not a pothole in sight.
On a clear day a whole string of volcanoes can be seen from Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica, including Tenorio (seen here), Maravillas, Rincon de la Vieja and Arenal.
The animals of Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge
Volcanoes are cool and all, but the real highlight of any tour of Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge (US$35 per person including a guide/boatman, roughly 1.5 hours) is the wildlife. We saw caimans, a whole host of birds, huge fish, frogs, trees full of monkeys, cool lizards,and more (though the area’s pumas and jaguars took the day off). Here are some Caño Negro wildlife highlights.
A jicana hunts for lunch in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica.
This was one of the smaller caimans we saw in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge.
We saw or first juvenile tiger heron in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge and its stripy coloration (which they lose in adulthood) made their name make sense.
Can a lizard be sexy? We think this basking baselisk in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge comes close.
An egret glides through Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica.
This bird’s name, purple gallinule, is as impressive as its look.
A juvenile jicana tries its wings on for size in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica.
This male mantled howler monkey was just hanging out on a branch over the water in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge.
The shores of the waterways in Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge are a haven for all kinds of critters.
The trail left behind by our boat as we toured Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica.
Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge travel tips
We stayed at Caño Negro Natural Lodge (US$120 double including continental breakfast) which is located just a short stroll from where the tour boats depart from. The lodge has its own wildlife-filled grounds and a pool along with 42 motel-style rooms. Some have been recently renovated so be sure you get one of those.
During the dry season (November to March) the wetlands of the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge dry up considerably, shrinking the navigable area. For maximum access, visit in the wet season. Skies are clearest in October, affording the best views of Arenal Volcano, Tenorio Volcano, Maravillas Volcano, and Rincon de la Vieja Volcano in the distance.
Here’s more about travel in Costa Rica
Sounds like a spectacular and incredibly remote place! We have only heard amazing things about Costa Rica (except for the potholes :-p) and are very excited to visit it ourselves sometime soon. We’ll have to add this to the list! Thanks for sharing.
Wow, that really is in the middle of nowhere — absolutely perfect! That’s one sexy lizard by the way. :)
This I did not experience – what spectacular wildlife!
The place is so rich in wildlife. It’s a protected area right?
And do caimans grow as big as crocodiles and are they also threats to humans?
Hi Jemma, Caño Negro is indeed protected as a Wildlife Refuge. Caimans do not grow as big as crocodiles and they are not considered to be very dangerous to humans. I think your question should be turned on it’s head, as it is almost always humans that are a much greater threat to other species than the other way around.
Great photos! Costa Rica has the most amazing birds.
We visited Costa Rica earlier this year and visited two wildlife sanctuaries on the East Coast. They do a great job in a country so famous for it’s wildlife. Who wouldn’t want to save those animals.