The famous natural pools of Semuc Champey are a “must see” destination in Guatemala. Do they live up to the hype?

A short but steep climb above the pools brings you to a view point where you get this awesome aerial view of the tumbling, crystal-clear natural pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.
Getting to Semuc Champey
You’ve got to endure a slow, bumpy, curvy road to get to Semuc Champey. First we passed through the grotty, congested city of Coban before turning off the pavement. From there it took 45 minutes to drive 7 miles (11 km) to reach the dusty town of Lanquín. From there it took another half hour to drive a steep, windy, narrow, and rocky road another 6 miles (9 km) down to the Cahabón River where the pools form. You could say we were ready for a soak.
Free fish pedicure
At Semuc Champey limestone deposits have built up over time, forming cascading rims in the riverbed which then fill with water creating natural crystal clear pools. Some pools are deep enough to dive into. All are filled with tiny fish that like to nibble on the dead skin on your legs and feet as you soak. Yep, just like that spa craze from a few years ago, only here its free (save for the 50Q, or about US$6.50, entrance fee per person).

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.
But it’s not all about soaking at Semuc Champey. A steep trail takes through the jungly hillside to a great lookout point above the pools. This is absolutely the best place to really appreciate this natural wonder as the pools spill out before you and the turquoise and green water looks impossibly clear.

Soaking in the natural, crystal-clear pools at Semuc Champey in Guatemala.
Where the river hides
There’s also a natural limestone bride at Semuc Champey which crosses over the Cahabón River. At one point the entire river “hides” under a rock ledge, disappearing from view completely. This ledge is actually where the pools form, fed by run off and side streams. So, as you’re soaking in the tranquil pools the river is raging below you. Crazy. This phenomenon of rock and water explains the name. Semuc Champey means “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language.

Semuc Champey means “where the river hides” in the Mayan Q’eqchi’ language. This is the point at which the Cahabón River “hides” under a massive stone ledge.
Watch the Cahabón River “hide” under a massive stone ledge in our video, below.
A must-stay near this must-see
We’d heard whispers about the laid back vibe, cool art work, and great food El Retiro Lodge on the road heading out of Lanquín and it, too, lived up to the hype. Private rooms and private cabañas (120Q or US$15.50 double for a cabaña) are scattered around a lawn-covered hillside which slopes down to a lazy river. Most rooms share a strip of clean bathrooms and showers which have been entirely decorated in pottery shards, glass beads, whimsical murals, shells and more.
Eric fixed El Retiro’s Wi-Fi so the manager gave us a free dinner one night. It’s a good thing we hadn’t eaten since breakfast because dinner at El Retiro is an all-you-can-eat buffet affair. Choose the veg option or the meat option (selections change daily) and get to work. At least 10 dishes were laid out in addition to the entrée and all of it (vegetables, salads, breads) was delicious.
El Retiro also has a riverside sauna made from empty glass bottles and that slow-moving river to cool off in. Things can get a bit raucous in the riverside restaurant and bar at night, so choose a room further away if you don’t want peace and quiet.

A lower, deeper stretch of pools at Semuc Champey.
Here’s more about travel in Guatemala
Semuc Champey is one of the coolest places in Guatemala. I love the underground river. Did you make it to the bat cave at sunset? Crazy to stand there as thousands of bats go rushing past you into the evening sky. I am glad to see El Retiro is still doing well. I stayed there in 2002, eating great food, playing Monopoly/drinking rum at night. I recall at the time they had some kind of radical eco-toilet project going on. Do you know if they still have that? Green and sustainable before it was cool. ;)
Actually, we got lazy and passed on the bats. Not a good excuse, but we’ve seen it before. El retiro has grown quite a bit since you were there. I don’t think they were using composting toilets. The only thing different was the cool bathroom mural work.
Wonderful pics and post. Thank you very much. Love the river.
Wow-those pictures are stunning. Will have to add Guatemala to our family travel bucket list! We did the fish spa in Kuala Lumpur. The kids thought it was hilarious-it really does feel a bit odd doesn’t it! I would love to try it with beautiful scenery like that next time!
[…] perhaps Guatemala kept the name distinctly un-Spanish for a reason. According to the Trans-Americas blog, the name “Semuc Champey” means “where the river hides” in the Mayan […]
well, everyone that go to those places fall in love to those places! I highly recommend it. By the way nice pictures.
Am considering a trip to Guatemala in the Spring of 2019. Am interested in visiting several ruins (El Mirador, Tikal, and possibly Calakmul) I have heard that crime in some areas is an issue. Any comments will be appreciated.
Hi Jim — it’s been a while since we exlored Guatemala, but we spent many, many weeks there and drove and traveled all over the country and we did not experience any crime or safety-related issues. That said, always pack your common sense and Guatemala City is known to have the crime problems of most Central American cities. You will find detailed posts on our travel blog about all of the places you’ve put on your wish list including El Mirador (we trekked there) https://trans-americas.com/series/hiking-to-el-mirador/ Tikal (which is still our favorite archaeological site in Guatemala) https://trans-americas.com/tikal-archaeological-site-guatemala/ and Calakmul (in Mexico) https://trans-americas.com/calakmul/. So, get started with our posts, use your head, and we would also recommend soliciting the advice of other travelers who have traveled through Guatemala more recently. Oh, and enjoy!